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SOLAR HOT WATER SYSTEM BUILD YOUROWN

FOR £500 OR LESS AND SAVE LOADS OF MONEY

1

The link to this page from Wikipedia has now been removed by thesocialist brothers there. You will find little else of any use on Wikiregarding Solar Hot water. The pages on Wikipedia regarding solarhot water are skillfully and stealthily edited to reflect the views of thesolar thermal trade ( the green thieves ). Take a look and click on the" view history tab " on the top right of the page. You will see theongoing edit war that is Wikipedia.

At the time of writing this 10/03/08. I would estimate that I am

spending about £300 a year on hot water. We use this amount forwashing and bathing and about another £100 that we use to run ourwashing machine and dishwasher. A total of about £400 for our familyof four living in a three bedroom semi. With the solar hot watersystem described here I am hoping to save about a half of this. About£200. This I consider a worthwhile saving that will increase year afteryear as gas and electricity prices continue to rise.

Have had a few questions on these figures. Some people think that

£400 is an exaggerated figure for heating water in a year. While a fewothers say they spend more than this. I think that before you embarkon this sort of project it would be a good idea to try to work out how

Self Feeding Drill Automated Self Feeding Drill Production Drilling Equipment www.blackalloy.com

Solar Collectors & Basis Collector for warm water whole sale copper and aluminium selective www.sirakian.gr

Solar Air Heating Systems Solar air heating for commercial industrial & institutional needs www.matrixenergy.ca

of 17DIY solar Hot Water System build your own

8/17/2011http://www.solarfriend.co.uk/



much you actually spend on hot water. You will need to look backover a years electricity and gas/oil bills and add them up. If you do notkeep old bills you will have to study your old bank statements. So Ihave been told about 30% of this total will be your hot water costs. Sofor example if your total energy costs for a year come to £1500 then

for hot water your costs will be £500. You will probably be able tosave about 40% to 50% of this amount £200 to £250.

Important disclaimer

It is possible to hurt your self. You can cut, burn, choke, poison, orscald yourself messing about with this. You could also fall from theroof or fall down the ladder with a cable around your neck on to awooden stake. You could electrocute your self ( with power tools ).

Blow lamps can explode and solder flux can give you dermatitis. Youcould get tetanus or blood poisoning from a splinter or paper cut. Youcould have an accident on the way to B&Q in the car. So if you followthese instructions its at your own risk. Wear goggles, steel toe capboots, thick leather gloves, a face mask and hard hat at all times. Usean RCD and proper scaffolding . Never work outside in a thunderstorm. Anything you do is your own fault, it's not my fault. I am notyour mum. Good Luck see you in the next life.

It's a great idea to have a solar hot water system , but at what cost.Solar hot water has become very big business these days, with gas andelectricity prices just going up and up. Many people who are "justenquiring" end up being sold ( often on credit ) systems that are veryunlikely to ever recover their capital costs. I believe I can save about£200 a year with this system. If I were to purchase a professionallymade,installed and maintained system for say £6000 it would take meabout 30 years to recover this cost. This is without taking into accountthe on going costs of servicing and repairs to over complicatedevacuated tube systems. Buying a system on credit will also have toinclude the cost of credit ( interest ) that is often overlooked. If Iwould pay £6000 cash up front for a system there is also the cost of lost interest to be factored in. £6000 in a decent savings account willprobably earn more money in interest than you can save by usingsolar to heat your hot water. As we know from past experiences with

double glazing, conservatories etc, very few of these companies thatare selling expensive solar hot water systems with long guarantees,





will be around in five years time. Its got to be a DIY system or nosystem.

Flat plate vs Evacuated tube solar collectors/panels. It is claimed that evacuated tube solar collectors are typically more

efficient than flat plate collectors. This does not mean that evacuatedtubes can produce more hot water, it's just that the panel area can bereduced. You will need a larger flat plate panel than an evacuatedtube array to heat the same size water tank, but with either type youwill get about the same amount of hot water each year. You can'tmake your own evacuated tube array. You have to buy from China.Salesmen like evacuated tubes, they are much more sexy and need amuch more complicated system that is considerably more expensiveand needs servicing. Money Money Money. An independent study bythe DTI compared a number of different types of system and the panelthat produced the most hot water was of the flat plate variety. Tubesare for suckers. Most evacuated tube systems require mains electricityfor pumps, valves, controllers etc thus negating any gains over flat





plate collectors. These complicated systems will almost certainly comewith an annual service contract that will be linked to any warranty.

Send us your quotes. We hear that some big name UK companies arequoting up to £12000 for a solar hot water system. If you have such a

quote please send it so I can publish it here.

Quote 1: ( Bournmouth ) Two hour high pressure visit. 1 solar panel,40 gallon hot water cylinder, pump and box of electronics, £11,500 or£6,400 if ordered within 24 hours.

Quote 2: British Gas claim you can save £85-£350 a year with theirsystem, costing £3600.00. Will take from 10.2 to 42 years to pay for itself ( is nothing goes wrong ).

Quote 3: Solartwin. £3,699 installed or £2,699 DIY.

Quote 3: According to the Energy Saving Trust, the average price fora system is £4800.00.

Quote 4: Whilst visiting an energy display in my area I was quoted upto £10,000 for thermal panels.

Quote 5: British Gas latest. Approximate cost for a system £ 5000.00inc VAT ( At least 30 year payback).

THE PLAN

I am not claiming any originality for these systems. I have studiedmany solar hot water web sites and put together what I consider to bethe best plan for my needs.





This is about as simple and low cost as you can get. The pump andP/V panel are the only parts liable to give any problems. My money atthe moment is on the Charles Austen DL2 pump ( Six weeks deliveryunfortunately ), but looks the part, and is what I am using in mysystem. For this pump you will need a P/V panel rated at about 10watts. These panels appear to give about half of their rated output. If you buy a panel that is too small like I did, you will then have to buyanother one. So get one about 10 watts. If its too small its no good, If its a bit too big you can always damp it down a bit. Put the pump andP/V panel so that you can get to them easily. Important. Pump mustbe situated where it cant freeze. Also pump must be 150mm to 250mmabove the water level in the expansion tank that supplies your boiler.You must make sure that the pump does not pump if the panel isfrozen. Switch it off on cold nights/mornings.





To get the most heat gain from the available Sunshine it is necessaryto use some sort of electronic control board and a minimum of twotemperature probes. The Solarfriend#1 controller board uses a PIC16F676 Microcomputer and needs just an 8 to 15 volts DC powersupply. The board has a single pole changeover relay that shouldeasily cope with most small pumps. For larger pumps the on boardrelay could be used to trigger a larger relay. The temperature probes

must be situated one on the solar water panel near to the outlet. Andthe other on the hot water cylinder. Where about's on the cylinder issubject to quite a bit of experimentation. On my system the cylinderprobe is under the insulation about 20cm from the top, But I maymove this about when I get Time. To begin with I have set thedifference adjuster to about 10 degrees. That is to say that the relayonly energizes if the panel temperature is 10 degrees above thecylinder temperature. If the panel temperature goes above thedifference value the relay energizes for about 5 seconds ( Adjustable ).This will be the pump on time. Then there is an off time about 15seconds ( adjustable ). The whole thing repeats continually in a cycle.





Should the panel temperature fall below 18C the board just idles,using very little current until the temperature rises above 18C. Thisdoes away with the worry that the pump will pump into a frozenpanel.





Picture above shows Solarfriend #3. This panel uses PIC 16F833Micro controller and has a wide range of adjustment for differencevalue 0-20 degrees approximate, on time 0-20 seconds and off time 12-

32 seconds aprox. There is also an ( AUTO ) setting. This panel isdesigned to suit most DIY systems.

See it on Youtube here

FREEZE PROOF ROOF MOUNTED WATER PANEL

To begin with I made a wooden frame from some 95mm x 20mmhardwood. This frame is made so that a sheet 2445mm x 1222mm of exterior grade 10mm plywood will sit inside the frame flush with the

bottom edge screwed to wooden strips 40mm x 20mm that arescrewed on edge inside the frame. The sheet of plywood you buydictates how big you make the frame. The outside dimensions of myframe are 2490mm long x 1268mm wide x 95mm deep. This panel isabout 3 square meters in size.





The two sheets of 16 swg aluminium that I purchased were just a bittoo big to fit inside the frame so it had to be trimmed with tin snips to





a final size of 2435mm x 1200mm that was about 20mm smaller thanthe inside of the frame so as to give a 10mm clearance all around.

The idea is that the 15mm ID 3mm wall silicone tube gets squashed inbetween the two sheets of ally. So that the tube is not completelyclosed up I put a strip of 25mm x 10mm ally around the edge of thesheet and 45 ally 10mm x 25mm round spacers on the sheet. Thesespacers that are on the sheet can be made square from the same allybar that is around the edge of the sheet. The four corner most spacerare approximately 175mm in from each corner edge, then in a grid 9across the sheet 105 mm apart then 5 along the sheet 522mm apart.

The holes are 6mm diameter. I put the two ally sheets together, thenput on the 10mm spacers that were already drilled. I held the spacersin place with fast curing silicone sealer and left overnight. Next day Idrilled through the spacers and sheets so that all the holes would lineup when the bottom sheet became the top sheet. And to my surprisethe top sheet fitted perfectly. The screws are 5mm x 30mm nickelplated brass.





The coil of silicone tube that I purchased was 15mm ID with 3mmwall thickness and was 25 meters long. The panel actually took 24

meters so I had to cut off about 1 meter. I fixed the tube in place withtape so that it would not move and get caught between the spacers andthe top panel. Cut outs were made in the top panel for the tube toenter and exit and it was painted matt black with Sperex high temppaint. A 500 ml aerosol can is just about enough to cover this size of sheet.

Next I fitted the top panel and gradually tightened the 100 or so nutsso that the silicone tube was squashed oval between the two ally

sheets. Then I fitted the two 15mm to 6mm brass reducers that will





connect to the small bore 6mm ID 3mm wall tubing that will run tothe hot water tank.

The gap between the plywood base and the bottom aluminium sheet isabout 50mm and this is filled with this space blanket insulation that ishalf price at B&Q at the moment. For this size panel you need about1.5 rolls leaving the usual annoying bit over. I made three long pillowsthat just about fitted perfect and were stapled to the wooden frame. If you cut this carefully to size and staple the ends its just about possibleto have no contact with the itchy stuff inside at all.





The panel mounting brackets were made from 40mm by 40mm by5mm mild steel angle about 1200mm long with two 150mm pieceswelded (could be bolted) on the back. I took the trouble to drill and

file two slots 10mm by 60mm in these smaller pieces to make it easierfor the holes to end up over a over a joist. You can measure how farapart your joists are from inside the loft and make your bracket tosuit. From outside you will have to lift up the tiles and find the joists,so that you can mark the tiles with chalk for drilling. I used a 10mmdiamond coated hole saw to drill the holes so as to not break the tiles.You are drilling through two tiles and these hole saws only do abouttwo holes before they go blunt so buy two. You can always take oneback if your tiles are easy to drill. Make sure that you hold the drill 90

degrees to the roof slope and not to the tile you are drilling. Next drilla 5 mm pilot hole through the hole in the tile and into the joist so thatthe bolt does not split the joist. Squirt plenty of silicone into andaround the hole and screw in the stainless steel fixing bolt until about60mm is left sticking out of the roof. Drill the second hole and fit thebracket. Put plenty of silicone all around the holes. I painted thebracket with metal primer then Hammerite.

Above is the finished panel. The poly carbonate sheet was bought cutto size and can be pushed in or out from the lower edge of the panel.





The brown fixing strips came from B&Q very low cost and are fixedto the wooden frame with silicone and galvanized nails. So that thesheet pushed in OK I smeared the edges with Vaseline. To hold thesheet in place I used the plastic buttons also stuck with silicone. To usethese buttons you need to make 12mm holes in the sheet. If you try to

drill these holes you will get lots of swarf inside the sheet and the holescan be jagged. The best way is to heat up a piece of 15mm copper tubewith a blow lamp, Holding the tube with pliers and carefully push itthrough the sheet to melt a neat hole with no swarf. Try this with anoff cut first.





The wooden tray with insulation and other bits and pieces came toabout 45 Kilo's and had to be pulled from the back garden by rope aswell as pushed up the ladder. I cut a piece of plywood that bolted tothe lower roof bracket and to this I secured the top of the ladder withseveral thick cable ties. Next I pulled up the inner solar panel ( 30

Kilo's ) and screwed it down on top of the insulation with tenwoodscrews. Then I drilled the holes in the roof and ran the 6mm IDpipes into the Tray top and bottom and connected them via thereducers to the panel. The panel temperature sensor is inside a 15mmcopper tube that is screwed to the top of the panel with a copper pipeclip close to the outlet. The wire from the sensor goes through a 6mmhole in the side of the tray and through another hole into the loft alongwith the wire from the P/V panel that is fitted to the top roof bracket.

I had to make two tee-in connections to my hot water system as shownin the left hand picture here. The red plastic is the insulation jacket onthe hot water tank. At the top you can just about see the compressiontee fitting close to the hot water outlet going into an isolating valve.Just to the right is another valve that connects to the cold inlet pipe. Inthe right hand picture you can see these pipes from above the work

surface. Both have homemade 22mm to 6mm reducers that connect tothe small bore 6mm silicone tube that runs up through the ceiling,





across the loft space, out through the roof, and into the hot waterpanel.

Frozen copper pipes

Quite a few people still insist that they will get away with using copperpipe in their panel. The pictures above show what will happen if youuse copper. The 15mm pipe has split and the compression fitting haspushed almost off the end of the pipe after being frozen and thawed afew times.

Click on these links below for more important

details.SOLAR DIARY ( Day by day diary of results so far )

9 WATT PV PANEL

12 VOLT WATER PUMP

DIY FROST PROOF PUMP HOUSING

12 VOLT LEAD ACID BATTERY

MASTER CONTROL BOARDS

TEMPERATURE PROBES

SOLAR HOT WATER FOR YOUR WASHING MACHINE AND DISHWASHER

SUPPLIERS AND PRICES

CONTACT US

ITEMS FOR SALE

FITTING AND SETTING UP INSTRUCTIONS FOR SOLERFRIEND#3

THINGS I WOULD DO DIFFERENT NEXT TIME





The Solar Thermal Trade ( the green thieves ) are pretty muchbankrupt. The big problem for them is that domestic fuel at currentprices is way far too cheap. Most commercially made and installedsolar hot water systems will take 20 or 30 years to pay for themselves.The situation with solar P/V in many times worse. A recent survey by

the Consumers Association ( Which ) found that nearly all thecompanies involved in the solar thermal trade were using dishonestand dubious selling methods to sell solar thermal systems.


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