6 tipuri pentru mese
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About This Instructable
Posted:
Oct 1, 2013
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KentM (/member/KentM/)
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It's said that to perfect a skill takes about10,000 hours of work and study. If that's thecase I've got around 9800 hours to go. But,like they say, it's not the destination but the
journey.
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A cross-cut sled for the table saw is a m ust h ave jig for any ser ious woodworker. More accurate than
a miter gauge, it also makes cross-cutting any board easy and safe. However, in order to provide the
proper results it must be built with care. I made my first sled last year, following a plan in a popular
woodworking magazine. Yet, in a matter of months, the maple runners swelled so much that the sled
wouldn't slide in the miter slots. That's when my type "A" personality kicked in and I became
determined to learn all I could about the ins and outs of building a cross-cut sled that would last. That
research forms the basis for the tips and techniques presented in this instructable. And, while I can't
take credit for any of these great ideas, I think you will find the insights of some very talented
woodworkers helpful.
Step 1: Tip 1: Milling the Sled Runners
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The runners ride in the two miter slots and guide the sled as the workpiece is pushed past the blade.
They are most often made from hardwood such as maple or white oak, however, steel, aluminium or
plastic runners are also options. Wood runners are more commonly suggested, most likely, because
of the moderate cost. The disadvantage of wood runners is that the wood can swell with changes in
humidity making smooth travel through the miter slots difficult or impossible.
Tip #1: Since most wood movement is with the grain, mill the sled runners with the grain
running vertically as shown in the photo. This will minimize or eliminate side to side
expansion of the runner in the miter slot.
Miter slots can vary slightly in size but most are 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep. Most plans call for milling therunners for a snug yet smooth sliding fit with no side to side play (also called slop). However, if the
runner width swells too much it can become a problem and, as I mentioned, this is where I ran into
trouble with my first sled. The good news: Tip number two allows some wiggle room when milling the
runners to width.
Note: The height of the runners should be less than 3/8" so there will be some space under the runner
for sawdust debris
Step 2: Tip 2: Building the Sled Base
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6 Tips to building a better Cross-cut Sled for your Tablesaw by KentM(/member/KentM/)
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1/2 " MDF is an excellent and recommended choice for the sled. Base the size of your sled on the
size of your table saw and your woodworking requirements but not so large that it is difficult to control.
TIP #2: Build the sled as two separate halves that will be joined together when attaching the
fences. Constructing the sled in this manner will guarantee that the sled runners ride tightly
along the blade side edges of the miter slots allowing for a less than perfect fit if the runners
are milled slightly smaller than the slots.
First, cut the sled base as square as possible, making the length slightly longer than your final
dimension (approx. 1/2" or so).
Second, after determining how much of the sled you want on each side of the blade, cut it in two.
Third, measure the distance from the blade to the inside edge of each miter slot and add 1/4" to that
dimension. Using those dimensions, cut spacer boards to clamp to the appropriate half of the sled
base. These boards will be used to position the runners for mounting to the base.
Fourth, pressing the runners firmly against the spacer boards, glue and nail them in place.
Fifth, after the glue has dried, put one half of the sled base in the appropriate miter slot. It should
extend the extra 1/4" or so past the blade. This excess will be trimmed off to create a perfect zero
clearance for that half of the sled. Repeat the process for the other half of the sled base.
IMPORTANT: Remember to press the sled base FIRMLY against the blade side edge of the
miter slot when trimming off the excess MDF, otherwise the two halves may not join together
properly.
The photos show the process for attaching the runners to the base and trimming the base halves for a
perfect zero clearance to the blade.
Photo one: A piece of MDF is used as a spacing template. It is cut 1/4" wider than the distance from
the saw blade to the corresponding miter slot. Line up the spacer with the edge of the sled base and
clamp it to the base and your workbench.
Photo two: Add glue to the runner.
Photo three: Press and hold the runner firmly against the MDF spacer.
Photos four & five: Nail the runner to the base.
Photo six: Set the sled base in the appropriate miter slot and trim off the excess
Photo seven: One half of the sled base after trimming (viewed from the output side of the saw)
Step 3: Tip 3: Building the Fences
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The front and rear fences for the sled are most often made of solid hardwood. However, there is no
guarantee that the fence will hold it's shape and remain true over time. For this reason, I thought tip
number three made sense and was also a really good idea.
Tip #3: Construct the fences like a sandwich with the top and bottom pieces made of 1/2"
plywood and several middle layers of 1/2" MDF.
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The fences should be at least 3" high and 1 3/4" thick. The length of the front and the rear fences can
vary depending on the preference of the user. Since the purpose of the front fence is to simply help
hold the sled together, I opted for a shorter fence. This also reduced the total weight of the sled. My
rear fence runs the full length of the sled but I noted many examples where the fence was an inch or
two shorter on each end of the sled to facilitate angle cuts.
Finally, my fences include additional hardwood support on both the front and rear fences. On the rear
fence the support provides both additional height and a dedicated "push block" to keeps my hands a
little farther away from the blade. I salvaged these pieces from my original sled since I liked the look
and functionality and because my new fences were only 2 1/2" tall without them.
To build the fences:
1) Rip your plywood and MDF pieces to size2) Glue them up using clamps
3) When dry, scrap off any glue squeeze out
4) Clean up the the faces (and ends if necessary) by using a finishing blade and making a fine cut
pass on the table saw
Step 4: Joining the fence halves
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This step doesn't contain a tip, it merely explains the process for making sure the two sled halves are
joined together properly. The photos below pr ovide a summary of the steps. Here is the sequence I
followed:
1) Drill countersunk holes through the sled base to attach the fences to the sled (later in this step).
2) Photo #1: Put the sled halves in position on the table saw and lightlyclamp them together so the
runners are pressing against the blade side of each miter gauge slot. Photo #2 shows how the left
runner snugs against the miter slot.
3) Photo #3: Clamp the front fence in position and drill holes in the fence using the pre-drilled holes in
the sled base as a guide.
4) Photos #4 & #5: Add glue, clamp the front fence to the sled and drive 2" screws into the
countersunk holes. Allow an hour or two to dry.
5) Remove the clamp on the front fence and reposition the sled on the saw to attach the rear fence
(you may need to remove and reattach the clamp holding the two halves together).
6) With the rear fence clamped in position, drill a single hole through the fence (first hole on the left
end) using the predrilled hole in the sled as a guide. Drive a screw into the hole and remove the
clamps.
7) The next step will square the fence to the blade.
Step 5: Tip 4: Squaring the Fence to the Blade
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The only way to get an accurate cut is to have the rear fence perfectly square (at a 90 degree angle)
to the saw blade. Most often a single square is set against the blade and the fence to determine the
proper fence position. There is nothing really wrong with this approach but I think the next tip makes
the process all the more foolproof.
Tip #4: Use two 90 degree drafting triangles, one on each side of the blade, to assure findingthe correct position to secure the rear fence.
The reason I like this method is that, if your fence isn't perfectly straight, your blade is warped or out
of alignment on the saw, then getting both triangles square to the fence and blade at the same time
isn't going to happen.
Note: I have a moderately priced contractor style table saw and, after this exercise, I came to the
conclusion that my blade was just a hair off (maybe half a hair). Since I wasn't about to take the saw
apart I decided to finish the sled and see if the results were acceptable. They were, so I'll leave
perfection to those of you with better equipment than mine.
After find ing the proper posit ion for the fence, strike a reference line on the sled using a very
sharp pencil.
Step 6: Final Assembly
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You are now ready for the final assembly.
If, after securing the rear fence to the sled (as outlined below), you encounter any
resistance sliding the sled:GO TO TIP #6 FOR HELP!
Next, you have two choices. You can either:
(1) Clamp the fence to the sled at the reference line and shoot a small nail through the underside of
the sled (on the end of the fence opposite the screwed end). Next, with the fence now secured to the
sled, remove the clamp and make a test cut* to check if square. If the fence is out of square, tap
the fence with a mallet to slightly adjust the angle of the fence, then make a second test cut
and check again**. Repeat this procedure until you obtain a satisfactory result. Now, with the fence
square to the blade, reclamp and drill holes in the fence using the pre-drilled holes in the sled base as
a guide. Finally, screw down the fence with 2" long wood screws.
or, as I did...
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(2) If you have confidence in the accuracy of the reference line, clamp down the fence, drill a hole for
a set screw on the end of the sled and screw down the fence. Make a test cut and check. If you like
the results, reclamp the fence to the sled and finish drilling the mounting holes in the fence. Complete
the assembly by securing the fence with 2" long wood screws.
**********************************************************************************************************************************************
*HOW TO DO A TEST CUT:
A test cut is a foolproof way to see if the sled is set up correctly. Simply rip a go od size piece of scrap
(making sure it has straight, parallel edges). Press the workpiece against the fence and cut into two
pieces. Slide the cut edges together to see if they fit together without any noticeable gaps. If all looks
good, take one piece and flip it over (front to back) and check the fit again. Any error in the cut notvisible on your first inspection will now be doubled and be much more obvious. As shown in the
photos, if the edges butt together firmly with no gaps then the fence and blade are aligned correctly.
**********************************************************************************************************************************************
** Determining which direction to adjust the fence: If the gap in the test piece is at the rear fence,
move the fence back. If at the front fence move the fence forward.
Step 7: Tip 5: Increase the Sled's versatility with a layer of Hardboard
Since a zero clearance kerf is necessary to avoid chipout when making any kind of cut, this next tip
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will dramatically improve the versatility of your sled.
Tip #5: Cut pieces of 1/4" hardboard and attach them to the fence and sled base with carpet
tape. Then, with a regular blade, cut a kerf in the hardboard. At this point the hardboard is
simply duplicating the kerf of the sled in providing the zero clearance necessary for a clean
cut. However, eventually you may want to make wider cuts using a dado blade or with the saw
blade set for an angle cut. These cuts will forever change the kerf size of the sled and fence.
However, by simply replacing the hardboard when switching back to a regular blade set to
zero degrees, you can easily return the sled to zero clearance cutting.
Step 8: Tip #6: How to guarantee a smooth sliding Sled
If your sled glides over your table saw's surface from day one that's great. However it may not and,
eventually, it pays to employ this last tip:
Tip # 6: Apply a light coat ofJohnson's paste waxto the sled bottom and runners, then buff
when dry. This should reduce any friction and make the sled slide much more smoothly.
Alternately, you can apply the wax to the top of your saw and miter slots, or to both the sled
andsaw top if you like.
Note: Wax used on the table saw top will not affect your workpieces once the dried wax residue has
been buffed off.
Step 9: If you are an "A" type Personality
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We have a be nice comment policy.
Please be positive and constructive. Ri ch E di tor A dd I mages P rev iew P os t
Oct 7, 2013. 7:21 PM Reply (C30WQO4HM8D6VT1)
Accuracy and precision ar e key components to good woodworking. So, if you are an "A" type
personality like I tend to be, you may find this website both intriguing and maddening at the same
time:
http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/5-cuts-to-a-perfect-cross-cut-sled/
On his website, William Ng has a fascinating video on how to test your cross-cut sled for accuracy and
adjust it to within one thousandth of an inch of a perfectly square cut! Needless to say my sled didn't
pass his test but it was fun to give it a try. In any case, since my test cuts look good and fit together
well, I'm more than satisfied and confident my new sled will do everything I need it to do.
I hope you find these tips helpful if you plan on building a cross-cut sled. If you get yours to within .001
of a degree accuracy I'll be a little jealous but glad I may have helped in some small way.
This helps us reduce spam.
sconner1 (/member/sconner1/) says:
My question is: Why not build a whole sled in one piece with the blade all the way down, turn the sawon and slowly raise the blade up and run the sled through to make the perfect slot?
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KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to sconner1
That's the way it is usually done,which is why this approachintrigued me so much. I liked thefact that it allowed me to millrunners to fit the miter slots with alittle play in them. When the halvesare pulled together the runners bothpress on the blade side of the miterslots providing a smooth, accurate
slide to the sled. The benefit as Isaw it was that now I didn't have toworry about the runners everbinding in the slots, which canhappen when you mill them for asnug, sliding fit as recommended intraditional sled designs.
spin498 (/member/spin498/) says:
For me, this is the clearest and easist to follow description of how to construct a sled I've seen.Thanks for that.
Juliaschild (/member/Juliaschild/) says:
Good ideas, I would suggest finishing the whole thing before attaching the Masonite, as MDF willaccept moisture and swell badly if in a humid situation. Also I slightly bevel the long runner edgesfacing away from the main board so the unit drops into the slots easier. I usually use 3/8" Teflonsheet for the runners, you can get it from plastic suppliers.
al_packer (/member/al_packer/) in reply to Juliaschild
UHMW costs less than Teflon,works great, available fromMcMaster. It's also good for thingslike oar lock sockets.
Juliaschild (/member/Juliaschild/) in reply to al_packer
Best thing I've ever used isPhenolic, but its nasty on toolsand smells horrible.
Juliaschild (/member/Juliaschild/) in reply to Juliaschild
I screw the runners on as theTeflon does not glue.
charlessenf-gm (/member/charlessenf-gm/) says:
Very impressive for only 1000 of the requisite10000 hours ) Actually, it is very goodlooking. One thought from a fellow who hasbuilt a couple of these (albeit no where nearas pretty) over the years and thought to passalong a thought about the guide rails /runners. The composite 'lumber' sold fordecks might prove more stable and slipperyand less susceptible to moisture-induceswelling. And, it would only take a free scrap
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or two from a neighbor's deck project tosuffice for a few sleds or similar jigs.
I used a piece of this stuff to make athreshold a year or so back and found itmilled well (ran it through my planner on asled to create the trapezoid shape needed forthe application) and has worn well in theelements ever since.
Again, nice project.
KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to charlessenf-gm
Very creative suggestion. It surebeats spending money onexpensive plastic or metal runners.
guitarpicker7 (/member/guitarpicker7/) says:
Interesting project!
A hopefully helpful comment - have youconsidered using poly plastic runners asguides? I had the same problems with woodrunners: shrinking, swelling, splintering,
wearing grooves, etc.
I saw a big $$ factory sled with plasticrunners- polyethelene. I didn't want to spendgood money on plastic- I found that a 1/2"thick poly kitchen cutting board wouldprovide all the plastic strips I needed. Thispoly plastic material is easy to cut withregular shop tools, including a jointer! Myfirst set of poly runners lasted longer thanthe sled!
When I visit the thrift stores, I always lookover the kitchen wares area and I havecollected a good number of poly cuttingboards, a few almost a full inch thick! Ofcourse, one could pay full price for some
virgin poly, but it's not necessary.
Keep having fun in your shop, but keep itsafe!
KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to guitarpicker7
Another c ool idea! Thanks for y ourinput. Definitely worth trying.
Bill WW (/member/Bill+WW/) says:
Great job as usual, Kent. Appreciate the "tip" approach, each one can be utilized independently. Theuse of MDF ad hardboard is great they are flat, smooth, true materials. No need to go to plywood.Wow, where did you get those great large triangles?.
Thanks much,Bill
KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to Bill WW
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Thanks for the nice comments. It's always a pleasure hearing from you. The draftingtriangles belonged to my father who was a professional artist. Inexpensive plastic oneswould be just as good and should be readily available at any craft or art supply store.
Bill WW (/member/Bill+WW/) in reply to KentM
Kent, I have about a dozentriangles, dating back to my firstcollege drafting class in 1963. Butthe triangles your dad used are
unique due to their size. Larger isbetter!
studleylee (/member/studleylee/) says:
Thanks! I learned some things in this andthat's always good. I need to make this sled:I've always hesitated on using the table saww/o one, especially if you work alone. I alsoneed wing supports for a 4x8 sheet work.thanks for this instructable! The 5 cut testwas a cool concept. I snagged those swffiles for ref :-)
I8mAll (/member/I8mAll/) says:
Spot on old chap,it's such an elegant solution. It creates such a "Dho!" moment then "Why aren't they sold like that."Thank you for telling us about it and illustrating the job so well.JTD
AJMansfield (/member/AJMansfield/) says:
This is something I will probably actually do,unlike most of the instructables I see.
advaldo (/member/advaldo/) says:
Very very good, congratulations. Please allow me make a suggestion to complement your projectand security.
Sorry I can't insert the image, so I post the link:http://api.ning.com/files/TmSqT3jmw6UdFXdU5JCXrzIYwKtReo5kdTiSWNw1S-*7D10e*02DpRibUvR7MDL9s-gvBI7bwDcaKNe2jyNAfVmnk*VSIW1xeyWw6tHRpxg_/CCSled.jpg?width=721
grooverjamesr (/member/grooverjamesr/) says:
My only major problem I found is cuttingthe sled in half at stage #2, This will makethe board out of square at this stage andevery attempt at squaring it later will causeextra work.The way to accomplish the same goal is tomount the fence to the large piece of MDFas shown later on, mount one side of thefence, true it up with a square, then screwin the other side of the fence.Using all these framing squares iseliminated and the sled should be at 90degrees.
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KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to grooverjamesr
Building the sled from separatepieces isn't something I came upwith. This is the approach taken bya professional woodworker named
Alan Turner and t he t echnique c anbe found at finewoodworking.com.There is certainly nothing wrong withthe traditional method you prefer.However, I do disagree that buildingthe sled the way I describe willmake the board out of square.
Remember, each half has theexcess cut off using the runners tocreate a perfect zero clearance oneach side of the blade. Once thehalves are clamped together, youstill have to square the fence to thesawblade when mounting the rearfence which is the same methodyou describe. I guess if you wereconcerned about not being able torip a squared piece of MDF in twoaccurately you could cut each pieceindividually. Then you wouldn't haveto cut the sled base in two at all.
grooverjamesr (/member/grooverjamesr/) in reply to KentM
All I am saying is by not cuttingthe board in half there is only onepiece, squared already and whenthe fence is attached it is squaredto the sled. Then the initial rip madin the center of the sled, cuttingout all the measuring and aligningdone with the triangle squares youshow.Your way is fine, if you want to doit that way as you said my way isfine too. I watch a lot of youtubetoo and read Wood Magazine andmost show it being made as I
suggested. The sled made, theright or left side of the sled isattached to the fence and thensquared and the sled clamped,then screwed in place when it issquared, then the center line sawn.
baschwar (/member/baschwar/) says:
What if your table saw doesn't have miter slots ? I have a ryobi contractor saw on a folding base...thoughts ?
bwschool (/member/bwschool/) in reply to baschwar
they make bolt on slots for that sawand sell on ebay to guide tools
baschwar (/member/baschwar/) in reply to bwschool
It's like this saw but 1-2generations older:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-10-in-Table-Saw-with-Wheeled-Stand-
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RTS31/202517812#.Uk5ShCgukmI-- the left side of the table slidesand has a couple keyhole slots forbolts... I guess you could rigsomething up that way and have aguide off the right side of the tableo keep things square..
Bill WW (/member/Bill+WW/) in reply to baschwar
No miter slots is new to me also.But maybe you can accomplish the
same objective by putting therunners outside the saw table, sothey hug the edges.. They would belike outriggers that guide the sledalong the outer edges of the table.Same principle, but I do not knowyour saw. Worth looking into, thesled is a really valuable addition.
Good luck.
KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to baschwar
No miter slots? That's a new one on
me. I don't have any suggestions,sorry.
earltroske (/member/earltroske/) says:
Personally, I thought your instructions were brilliant and clear. I have a really inexpensive table sawand I know that a really good sled will improve my cuts. I've thought about it for a long time. I'msatisfied after reading and seeing what you've done that I was thinking correctly and now I feelconfident that I can do this, too. Really appreciated the tips, especially the hardboard. Best tip ofthem all. Thanks.
Austringer (/member/Austringer/) says:
I'm definitely with Joelav about putting a blade guard on the back. I also like put a red line on all myjigs indicating any place where the blade might be. If your t humb is on t he red line, maybe youshould move it.
Austringer (/member/Austringer/) in reply to Austringer
Nice sled BTW.
stevel227 (/member/stevel227/) says:
Enjoyed your instructable. I particularly like that you use a pop-up contractors saw ... it is identical tomine. I don't often see jigs/fixture/tips that work for the smaller saws like ours.
joelav (/member/j oelav/) says:
That's a nice, simple sled. Great tip on using the quartersawn faces for runners. I haven't had anytrouble with my runners when using the quartersawn faces. There are a few things I feel it isimportant to mention.
1 - I like to have a blade guard on the back. It ruins the aesthetics of the sled, but is important. Whencutting thick pieces, the blade can exit through the back of the fence posing a safety hazard -especially when you aren't expecting it to be there.
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2 - I would advise against using automotive polishes on woodworking jigs or equipment. They have ahigh silicone content which can react negatively with stains and finishes and are very difficult toremove from wood once contact is made. Instead, try using Johnson's paste wax.
To get the utmost precision form the sled, I use the "5 cut method" to square the fence. It takes a bitof tinkering, but getting accuracy of .001" over 12" is not too difficult. This is the best description ofthe process I have come across: http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/five_cut_method_swf.htm
KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to joelav
Thanks for your comments. I saw
your cross-cut sled shortly afterposting mine and it is definitely stateof the art. There are so many greatideas floating around the internet thatit pays to do some research andfigure out what best suits a personsindividual needs. I try to write myinstructables to show woodworkersrelying on basic power tools and jigsthat we aren't limited in creatingcomplex, high quality projects.FYI, you are absolutely correct inyour comments. Johnson's pastewax is explicitly recommended forwaxing saw tops and sleds. I shouldhave been more specific and I haveupdated my instructable thanks toyour comment. Oddly, I've never hada problem applying a finish to any ofmy products and I've used TurtleWax (not sure of the chemicalcomposition) on my saw in the past.I wonder if the fact that I'm verythorough when sanding my projectshas any bearing on this?
joelav (/member/j oelav/) in reply to KentM
Thorough sanding definitely helps,but sometimes that is not possiblewith thinly veneered plywood. I really
like the stacked MDF fence designon this sled. I think I will try that onmy next one
Terrific job on this and really goodwrite up
longwinters (/member/longwinters/) says:
Have you checked the squareness of theblade to the table? 4" stabilizer discs helpwith blade wobble that can manifest asinaccuracy
KentM (/member/KentM/) (author) in reply to longwinters
I haven't and will look into that.Thanks for the suggestions!
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Oct 1, 2013. 6:55 PM Reply (C9MNB0IHM8DJREZ)
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That's just wierd! I just watched William Ng's crosscut sled videos last weekend and was planning tobuild one this week. Today I see your 'ible, and it mentions Ng. I feel like Truman on the TrumanShow. *cue strange theremin music.
Good Instructable. I want to build a box jig sled for finger joints as well.
Phil B (/member/Phil+B/) says:
Thank you for this. I have been thinking about a crosscut sled. I did buy a book on tablesaws. Itmentions European table saws have a slide on one-half of the table that allows the whole half of the
table to act like a sled. Those are some really big table saws.
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