paturi suprapuse

8/12/2019 paturi suprapuse

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Introduction

Why have a kid sleep in a full-size bed when a kid's-

sized bed will do the trick ever so comfortably and

free up much needed bedroom space?

These beds are for kids. They are not full size and

will not accommodate adults. They are ideal for

places unable to fit a full size set of bunks. They can

be used as bunks (one on top of the other) or as two

single beds that can be tucked neatly into a corner.

The bunk set comprises of two single kids beds, two

bunk ends, and a ladder.

Once made, The beds, the bunk ends, and ladder

can be easily assembled to make the complete bunk

set (one bed on top of the other).

The bunks and bed frames can just as easily be

disassembled, should you wish to revert back to two

single beds or even one.

Beyond that, you'll want to know what to expect

when choosing thebest mattressfor the project.

With these plans and instructions you can make as

little as one bed or make the complete bunk set

which can be assembled and disassembled at will.

There are only three different stock sizes required forthis project. They are 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm),

3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 19mm), and 3/4" x 1 1/2"

(40mm x 19mm).

Those wood sizes are common stock and should be

available in most areas.

There is a short video clip that may be of some help

with the construction

processhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYM

and there is an online Spanish version athttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.html

Important safety notes

Bunks are a real space-saver butthere are a lot of safety concerns when it comes to bunk

beds, brought about by the number of accidents which do happen with them.

Read 'a few bunk bed safety guidelines' on pages 14 and 15and then ponder if bunk beds

are the best option for you.

It is recommended that only kids six years or over use the top bunk, that firm rules be dished out

by the parents or guardians, and that bunk beds be built to a strict criteria.
http://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/http://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/http://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYMhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYMhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://buildeazy.com/es/proyectos-5-1.htmlhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asZy0l7PbYMhttp://www.sleepys.com/en/info/FindingtheBestMattressforYou/


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Identifying the parts

The bunk set comprises of five individual sections - which are two single kids beds, two bunk

ends, and a ladder.

Once the sections are made, they can be easily bolted together (assembled) to make the

complete bunk set (one bed on top of the other).

The bunks can just as easily be disassembled, should you wish to revert back to two single

beds or even one.


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Bunk size

Each bed is 64 1/2" (1641mm) long overall and 30" (750mm) wide, and is the perfect size for

kids up to the age of 10 or so.

The overall bunk unit is 64 1/2" (1641mm) long, 31 1/2" (787mm) wide and 57 1/2" (1437mm)

high.The mattress area is 63"(1575mm) by 27" (675mm).

If you already have a mattress that is a slightly different size, with a little bit of thought it

shouldn't be too difficult for you to alter the plans to suit.

About the mattresses

Use 4"(100mm) thick foam rubber mattresses.

Sometimes it is cheaper to buy standard size single mattresses and cut them to size.

There always seems to be special or sale somewhere for such items. It is not too hard to cut a

standard size single foam rubber mattress. Just take off the cover, cut the foam rubber to size

with a long bladed craft knife and re-sew the cover to suit.

About the measurements

The measurements throughout this project are given in both Standard (inches) and Metric (mm).

The standard measurements are given first followed by the metric measurements in brackets ( ).

For example: 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm).

For rounding-off purposes, the metric sizes in this project are not an exact match to the

equivalent imperial sizes.

A structure built using the metric measurements will be approximately 1.6% smaller than the

same structure using the imperial (ft and in) measurements. Not really worth worrying about.

The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are

more suited to Australasia and other countries.

The size (width and thickness) of the wood used in this project is the 'actual' (true) size.

That is the size of the wood after it has been dressed (surfaced, planed and/or seasoned).

The 'nominal' size of the wood is in reference to its size before being dressed.

The 'actual' size of the wood is smaller than the 'nominal' size.

Below is a 'nominal' versus 'actual' chart, listing the wood sizes that are used in this project.

Standard (inches)

NOMINAL SIZE ACTUAL SIZE

1" x 4" 3/4" x 3 1/2"

1" x 6" 3/4" x 5 1/2"

Metric (millimetres)

NOMINAL SIZE ACTUAL SIZE

100mm x 25mm 90mm x 19mm

150mm x 25mm 140mm x 19mm


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The cutting list for the beds

Note 1: The list below is for two beds. If you only want to make one bed, then halve the list. The

cutting list for the bunk ends and ladder is on the next page.

Note 2: Dimensions in the cutting list are finished (actual sizes). Also, when purchasing the

wood be sure to allow extra for waste.

Wood

ITEM DESCRIPTION STOCK SIZE LENGTH HOW MANY PIECES

[a] side rail 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 63" (1575mm) 4

[b] side guardrail 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 19mm) 63" (1575mm) 2

[c] end rail 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 30" (750mm) 4

[d] end guardrail 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 19mm) 30" (750mm) 4

[e] leg 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 22" (550mm) 8

[f] bed slat support 3/4" x 1 1/2" (40mm x 19mm) 63" (1575mm) 4

[g] bed slat 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 19mm) 27" (675mm) 24

Hardware

176 wood screws 1 1/2" (38mm) long, 32 screw caps, and some wood glue.

Note 1: The screws should be long enough to go almost through two thicknesses of wood.


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Bed plans

Above are the plans for a kids bed.

You will need to make two of these. The plans for the for the bunk ends and ladder are on the

next two pages.


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The bunk end plan

Above are the plans for a bunk end. You will need to make two of these. The plans for the beds

are on the previous page, and the plans for the ladder are on the next page


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The bunk ladder plans

Above are the plans for the bunk ladder. The plans for the beds and the bunk ends are on the

previous two pages.


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Step 1: Make the bed base

Cut all the pieces according to the measurements

given in the cutting liston page 4.

Glue and screw the two slat supports (f)to the two

side rails (a).

Screw about every 8"(200mm) apart and pre-drill the

screw holes through the slat supports (f).

Place the side rails apart on a couple of sawhorses and spread the bed slats (g)along the top of

the slat supports, allowing approximately 2" (50mm) gap between each slat.

Glue and screw the slats to the slat supports. Use two screws at each end of every slat.

Pre-drill the screw holes through the slats (g).

Step 2: Make the bed ends

Round the top ends of the legs with a jig-saw,

sander or other suitable tool. Refer to drawing

above.

Lay the legs (e)on edge on a couple of

sawhorses.

Place the end rail (c)and the end guardrail (d)in position on top of the legs and glue and screw

them in place.

Use two screws at each end of both the rail and the guardrail.

Pre-drill the screw holes through both the rail and the guardrail.

Note 1: Ensure that the rail and guardrail are at right angles (square) to the legs.

Note 2: Ensure that the distance in between the two legs is the same as the overall width of the

bed base.


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Step 3: Fit the bed ends

Lay the bed base on its side, on top of a couple of sawhorses.

The two bed ends should fit snugly into place,

one at each end of the bed base.

Add a bit of glue and slip the legs (e)of the

bed ends over the side rails (a)of the bed

base.

Butt the ends of the side rails (a)up tight to the

end rails (c)and then screw through the

insides of the side rails (drill first) into the legs.

Step 4: Add the side guardrail

Now just a matter of adding the side guardrail(b)to the back of the bed.

Fasten the side guardrail (b)to the top part of

the legs (e)in line with the end guardrails (d).

Use four screws at each end of the side

guardrail.

Pre-drill the screw holes through the side

guardrail.

Sand any sharp corners and paint.


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Step 5: Cut the pieces

Cut all the pieces for the two bunk ends and the ladder according to the measurements given in

the cutting liston page 5.

Always cut the longest pieces first and then cut the shorter pieces out of the off-cuts.

The four bunk corner posts (h), the bunk guardrail (p)and the two ladder sides (m)will each

need to have one of their corners rounded as shown in the plan drawingsin pages 7 and 8.

Use a jig-saw, fret saw or similar tool.

Step 6: Make the two bunk ends

Lay the bunk corner posts (h)on edge on a

couple of sawhorses.

Place the bunk end rails (j)on top of the

bunk corner posts, position them and then

glue and screw in place.

Refer to the drawing above for placement.

Use two screws at each end of each rail (j).

Pre-drill the screw holes through the rails (j).

Note 1: Ensure that the rails (j)are at rightangles (square) to the corner posts (h).

Note 2: Ensure that the distance in between the corner posts (h)is the same as the overall

width of the bed including the legs.

Step 7: Make the ladder

Make the ladder up on a flat surface or on a

couple of sawhorses.

Refer to the ladder planon page 8for

dimensions.

Glue and screw all joins.

Use four screws at each join and pre-drill

the screw holes through the rungs (n), (o)

and through the bunk guardrail (p).


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Step 8: Assemble the bunks

Lay one of the bunk ends flat on the ground.

Place the beds (standing on their ends) in

position in between the bunk corner posts (h).

Then place the other bunk end in position on top

of the beds.

Hold everything firmly in place with a few

clamps.

Drill the bolt holes and add the bolts. Refer to the

drawing on the right for hole placement.

Refer to the hardware liston page 5for bolt

sizes.

Make the bolt hole sizes the same diameter as

the bolts.

Step 9: Attach the ladder

Attach the ladder while the unit is still standing

on end.

Hold the ladder in place with two or three

clamps.

Drill the bolt holes and add the bolts.

Refer to the drawing on the right for holeplacement.

Refer to the hardware liston page 5for bolt

sizes.

Make the bolt hole sizes the same diameter as

the bolts.

You can then tip the bunks over to their right

position.

Safety note:These bunk beds are designed for each bed to have a foam rubber mattress 4" (100mm) thick.

It is important that there is at least 5" (125mm) between the top of the mattress and the top of

the guardrail.

A mattress any thicker will be contrary to the safety guidelines.


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Step 10: Nut guards and screw caps

Make some nut guards. In this context a nut

guard is basically a small piece of plywood or

MDF board, made to surround a nut and thus

help prevent possible injury to a kid who scrapesagainst a nut or bolt protruding from a bunk rail.

Cut a few pieces of 5/16" (9mm) thick MDF board

or plywood about 2 1/4" (55mm) x 2 1/4" (55mm)

square.

Stack the pieces on top of one another and lock

in between some pieces of wood held by clamps.

(See picture.)

This enables the pieces to be held firmly in place

while being drilled.

Drill the center hole 1" (25mm) diameter and

make the four screw holes near the corners 1/8"

(3mm) or screw shank size.

Fix (glue and screw) the nut guards around every

bolt that could cause injury to skin if scraped

against.

Next pop screw caps over the screw heads.

Finally, sand any sharp corners or edges, see

who you can find in the family to help with the

painting and have a look at 'a few bunk bed

safety guidelines'on the next page.

Enjoy!

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