marfuri textile

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0¿UIXULOHWH[WLOH Denumirea de P UIXULWH[WLOH provine de la cuvântul latin „texere“ (a HVH VDX D vPSOHWL œL LQL LDO V-a aplicat numai SURGXVHORU ILQLWH HVXWH œL tricotate. În prezent, în cadrul acestei grupe mari GH P UIXUL VXQW LQFOXVH fibrele QDWXUDOH FKLPLFH œL VLQWHWLFH ILUHOH HV WXULOH PDWHULDOHOH QH HVXWH tricoturile, LPLWD LLOH GH EO QXUL covoare, produsele de galanterie, broderiile etc., LQFOXVLY WRDW JDPD GH SURGXVH finite GH vPEU F PLQWH œL DOWH WLSXUL GH produse care sunt realL]DWHGLQILEUHœLILUHWH[WLOH 4.1 Fibrele textile )LEUHOH WH[WLOH VXQW FRUSXUL VROLGH QDWXUDOH GH RULJLQH DQLPDO YHJHWDO , mLQHUDO VDXRE LQXWHSULQSURFHGHHFKLPLFHGLQSROLPHULQDWXUDOL sau sintetici. Ele constituie materia priP GH ED] vQ RE LQHUHD ILUHORU, care, la rândul lor,VHSUHOXFUHD] vQ HV WXULœLWULFRWXULpot fi împOHWLWHVXEIRUP GH frânghii, parâme œL VIRUL SRW IL vPSkVOLWH FXQRVFXWH sub numele de materiale QH HVXWH: pâsle, postavuri etc.) sau, cele foarte rezistente, se utiOL]HD] FDvQW ULWRUvQFDGUXOPDWHULDOHORUFRPSR]LWH. )LEUHOHSRWILFODVLILFDWHGXS PDLPXOWHFULWHULL Astfel, un prim criteriu este cel al originii lor, vQ IXQF LH GH FDUH fibrele se împart în: fibre naturale de RULJLQHDQLPDO : P WDVHDOkQDœLS UXrile; fibre naturale de origine YHJHWDO : bumbacul, kapocul, fibrele OLEHULHQH GLFRWLOHGRQDWH LQXO FkQHSD UDPLD FKHQDIXO WHLœRUXO HWFœLILEUHOHOLEHULHQHPRQRFRWLOHGRQDWHPDQLODVLVDOHWF fibre naturale de RULJLQHPLQHUDO :azbestul; fibre din SROLPHUL QDWXUDOL RE LQXWH prin procedee chimice:viscoza, cupro, acetat etc.; ILEUH GLQ SROLPHUL VLQWHWLFL RE LQXWH SULQ SURFHGHH FKLPLFH poliamidice, poliesterice, polietilenice, polipropilenice, fibre de VWLFO GH]JXU HWF Un alt criteriu de clasificare este cel al lungimii fibrelor, din acest punct de vedere sortimentul comercial cuprinzând fibre: scurte FXQRVFXWH VXE QXPHOH GH œWDSHO VDX ILEUH UHWH]DWH I UkPL DWH

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Page 1: Marfuri Textile

���0¿UIXULOH�WH[WLOH�

Denumirea de P UIXUL�WH[WLOH provine de la cuvântul latin „texere“ (a

HVH� VDX� D� vPSOHWL�� úL� LQL LDO� V-a aplicat numai SURGXVHORU� ILQLWH� HVXWH� úL�tricotate. În prezent, în cadrul acestei grupe mari GH�P UIXUL� VXQW� LQFOXVH��fibrele� QDWXUDOH�� FKLPLFH� úL� VLQWHWLFH�� ILUHOH�� HV WXULOH��PDWHULDOHOH�QH HVXWH��tricoturile, LPLWD LLOH�GH�EO QXUL��covoare, produsele de galanterie, broderiile etc.,�LQFOXVLY�WRDW �JDPD�GH�SURGXVH�finite GH�vPEU F PLQWH�úL�DOWH�WLSXUL�GH�produse care sunt realL]DWH�GLQ�ILEUH�úL�ILUH�WH[WLOH�

4.1 Fibrele textile )LEUHOH� WH[WLOH� VXQW� FRUSXUL� VROLGH� QDWXUDOH�� GH� RULJLQH� DQLPDO ��

YHJHWDO , mLQHUDO �VDX�RE LQXWH�SULQ�SURFHGHH�FKLPLFH��GLQ�SROLPHUL�QDWXUDOL�sau sintetici.

Ele constituie materia priP � GH� ED] � vQ� RE LQHUHD� ILUHORU, care, la rândul lor,�VH�SUHOXFUHD] �vQ� HV WXUL�úL�WULFRWXUL��pot fi împOHWLWH�VXE�IRUP �GH�frânghii, parâme� úL� VIRUL�� SRW� IL� vPSkVOLWH� �FXQRVFXWH� sub numele de materiale QH HVXWH: pâsle, postavuri etc.) sau, cele foarte rezistente, se utiOL]HD] �FD�vQW ULWRU�vQ�FDGUXO�PDWHULDOHORU�FRPSR]LWH.

)LEUHOH�SRW�IL�FODVLILFDWH�GXS �PDL�PXOWH�FULWHULL�� Astfel, un prim criteriu este cel al originii lor, vQ� IXQF LH� GH� FDUH�

fibrele se împart în: � fibre naturale de RULJLQH�DQLPDO : P WDVHD��OkQD�úL�S UXrile; � fibre naturale de origine YHJHWDO : bumbacul, kapocul, fibrele OLEHULHQH� GLFRWLOHGRQDWH� �LQXO�� FkQHSD�� UDPLD�� FKHQDIXO�� WHLúRUXO�HWF���úL�ILEUHOH�OLEHULHQH�PRQRFRWLOHGRQDWH��PDQLOD��VLVDO�HWF���

� fibre naturale de RULJLQH�PLQHUDO :azbestul; � fibre din SROLPHUL� QDWXUDOL� RE LQXWH prin procedee

chimice:viscoza, cupro, acetat etc.; � ILEUH� GLQ� SROLPHUL� VLQWHWLFL� RE LQXWH� SULQ� SURFHGHH� FKLPLFH��

poliamidice, poliesterice, polietilenice, polipropilenice, fibre de VWLFO ��GH�]JXU �HWF�

Un alt criteriu de clasificare este cel al lungimii fibrelor, din acest punct de vedere sortimentul comercial cuprinzând fibre:

� scurte� �FXQRVFXWH� VXE� QXPHOH� GH� úWDSHO� VDX� ILEUH� UHWH]DWH��I UkPL DWH��

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Merceologie

� fibre continue sau infinite (monofilamentare); � fascicule de filamente continue ner VXFLWH�(fuior); � IDVFLFXOH�GH�ILODPHQWH�FRQWLQXH�U VXFLWH�(tort). Un al treilea criteriu de clasificare este cel al FRPSR]L LHL�FKLPLFH�D�

fibrelor, vQ�IXQF LH�GH�FDUH�ele pot fi: � ILEUH� SH� ED] � GH� KLGUD L� GH� FDUERQ�� bumbac, kapoc, fibrele

liberiene; � fibre SH� ED] � GH� VXEVWDQ H� SURWHLFH�� OkQD� úL� S UXULOH� DQLPDOH��P WDVHD�

� ILEUH�SH�ED] �GH�VLOLFDW�GH�FDOFLX�úL�GH�PDJQH]LX��ILEUD�QDWXUDO �GH�azbest;

� fibre din polimeri naturali hidratcelulozice:� YLVFR] �� SROLQR]H��cupro;

� fibre din polimeri naturali estercelulozice: acetat; � fibre din polimeri naturali proteice: GH�FD]HLQ ��]HLQ ��JOLFLQ ��GLQ�VRLD�úL�GLQ�V PkQ �GH�EXPEDF�

� ILEUH� GLQ� SROLPHUL� VLQWHWLFL� RE LQXWH� SULQ� SROLFRQGHQVDUH� poliamidice, poliesterice, policarbonice;

� ILEUH� GLQ� SROLPHUL� VLQWHWLFL� RE LQXWH� SULQ polimerizare: SROLHWLOHQLFH�� SROLSURSLOHQLFH� úL� GHULYDWH� YLQLOLFH�� GLQ� FRSROLPHUL�sintetici;

� fiEUH�GLQ�VWLFO ��]JXUH�úL�URFL�HUXSWLYH� Din punct de vedere al structurii celulare, fibrele pot fi: � fibre unicelulare: bumbac, kapoc; � fibre pluricelulare: fibreOH� OLEHULHQH�� LQ�� FkQHS �� LXW �� FKHQDI��

manila, sisal etc.; � ILEUH�FX�VWUXFWXU �FHOXODU ��OkQD�úL�S UXULOH�DQLPDOH� � ILEUH�I U �VWUXFWXU �FHOXODU ��P WDVHD�

4.1.1 Fibrele naturale

Cel mai uzitat criteriu de clasificare a fibrelor naturale este cel al origLQLL�ORU��vQ�IXQF LH�GH�FDUH�ILEUHOH�YRU�IL�SUH]HQWDWH�vQ�FHOH�FH�XUPHD] �

)LEUH�QDWXUDOH�GH�RULJLQH�DQLPDO

)LEUHOH� QDWXUDOH� GH�RULJLQH� DQLPDO � sunt complexe de proteine. Ele VXQW� UH]LVWHQWH� OD�PDMRULWDWHD� DFL]LORU� RUJDQLFL� úL� OD� DQXPL L� DFL]L�PLQHUDOL�puternici, cum ar fi acidul sulfuric, îQV sunt atacate de bazele slabe, de în OELWRULL�SH�ED] �GH�FORU�úL�SRW�IL�GL]ROYDWH�GH�DOFDOLLOH�SXWHUQLFH��FXP�DU�IL�hidroxidul de natriu sau de hipoclorit.

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

0 WDVHD�este una dintre cele mai vechi fibre textile, fiinG�IRORVLW �vQ�PRG� WUDGL LRQDO� vQ�&KLQD� vQF � GLQ� VHFROXO� al XXVII-lea î.Chr. 0 WDVHD se SUH]LQW � VXE� IRUPD�XQRU filamente continue (este singurul filament natural care atinge o lungime de peste 1000 m) provenite de la diferite LQVHFWH� úL�S LDQMHQL�úL�are drept component principal ILEURLQD�SURWHLF .

Fluturele vLHUPHOXL�GH�P WDVH�HVWH�RULJLQDU�GLQ�&KLQD�úL�WLPS�GH�]HFL GH�VHFROH�RE LQHUHD�úL�SUHOXFUDUHD�P W VLL�D�fost un secret biQH�S VWUDW��SkQ �în anul 300 d.Chr.,�FkQG�P WDVHD�D�vQFHSXW�V �ILH�RE LQXW �vQ�-DSRQLD�úL�DSRL�în India.

În antichitate, romanii o apreciau în mod deosebit, Caius Iulius Cezar interzicând� IRORVLUHD� P W VLL� OD� FRQIHF LRQDUHD� RELHFWHORU� GH�vPEU F PLQWH�RELúQXLWH� úL� OLPLWkQG� IRORVLUHD�HL�QXPDL� OD� IDEULFDUHD� WRJLORU�destinate persoanelor favorite.

3 WUXQGHUHD�P W VLL� vQ�(XURSD�(în anul 550 d.Chr.) s-a datorat unor F OXJ UL� WULPLúL� GH� îPS UDWXO� URPDQ� -XVWLQLDQ� ,� vQ�&KLQD� úL� FDUH�� FX� SUH XO�YLH LL��DX�OXDW�VHPLQ H�GH�GXG�úL�RX �GH�YLHUPL�GH�P WDVH��SH�FDUH�OH-au adus vQ� %L]DQ �� $FHVW� DQ� UHSUH]LQW � SUDFWLF� VIkUúLWXO� PRQRSROXOXL� GH LQXW� GH�FKLQH]L�úL�SHUVDQL�vQ�GRPHQLXO�P W VLL�

În secolele al XII-lea-al XIII-lea, Italia a devenit centrul european al P W VLL�� SHQWUX� FD�PDL� DSRL�� vQ� VHFROXO� DO�;9,,-lea, centrul V � VH�PXWH� vQ�)UDQ D��OD�/\RQ�

PrRGXF LD�GH�P WDVH��GDWRULW � FRQGL LLORU� FOLPDWHULFH� LPSXVH, nu s-a putut dezvolta decât în anumite zone ale globului, în principal în China, India, Japonia, ulterior în ,WDOLD�úL�SDU LDO�vQ�)UDQ D�

0 WDVHD� IRORVLW � vQ� LQGXVWULD� WH[WLO �este fibra� RE LQXW � GLQ� JRJRDúD�FDUH�vQFRQMRDU �YLHUPHOH�GH�P WDVH. &X�WRDWH�F �VXQW�FXQRVFX L�VXE�QXPHOH�GH� YLHUPL� GH� P WDVH�� HL� VXQW� PDL� FXUkQG� QLúWH� RPL]L, decât viermi propriu-]LúL��ILLQG�ODUYHOH�XQRU�VSHFLL�GH�IOXWXUL.

Viermii� GH� P WDVH� SUH]LQW � JODQGH� VDOLYDUH� PRGLILFate, numite JODQGH� GH� P WDVH sau sericterii�� FDUH� DX� UROXO� GH� D� SURGXFH� JRJRDúD��*ODQGHOH�VHFUHW �XQ�OLFKLG�YkVFRV��FODU��FDUH�HVWH�IRU DW�V �LDV �GLQ�JXUD�ODUYHL�SULQ� DQXPLWH� RULILFLL�� DOH� F URU� GLDPHWUH� YRU� GHWHUPLQD� JURVLPHD� ILEUHL� GH�P WDVH��ÌQ�FRQWDFW�GH�DHUXO��OLFKLGXO�VH�vQW UHúWH�úL�VH�WUDQVIRUP �vQ�ILEU 1.

)OXWXULL� GH�P WDVH� GRPHVWLFL L�� KU QL L� FX� IUXQ]H�GH� GXG�� DOF WXLHVF�familia Bombiceelor (genul Bombix mori), iar cultivarea lor� �LQFXED LD�RX ORU�úL�FUHúWHUHD�ODUYHORU��SRDUW �QXPHOH�GH�VHULFXOWXU �

&X� WRDWH� F � ILEUD� GH� SH�JRJRDú � DUH� R� OXQJLPH� FXSULQV � vQWUH� ���-3000 m, cDQWLWDWHD� GH� P WDVH� XWLOL]DELO � GH� OD� ILHFDUH� JRJRDú � HVWH� PLF

1 “Silkworm" - Encyclopedia Encarta 2000

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Merceologie

(fiind necesare cirFD� ����� GH� JRJRúL� SHQWUX� RE LQHUHD� XQXL� NJ� GH� P WDVH�EUXW ), SDUWHD�GH�vQFHSXW�úL�GH�VIkUúLW�dH�ILEU �ILLQG�GH�R�FDOLWDWH�PDL�VODE .

7UDJHUHD� P W VLL� FRQVW � SUDFWLF� vQ� GHS QDUHD� HL� GH� SH� JRJRúL� vQ VFXOXUL�� ILLQG� VXSXV � apoi XQHL� UHGHS Q UL� SHQWUX� FXU DUH�� vQ� FD]XO�FRPHUFLDOL] ULL�HL�FD�P WDVH�FUXG �

3HQWUX�D�IL�XWLOL]DW �vQ� HV WRULL�úL� vQ�SRGXF LD�GH�WULFRWDMH�VDX�FD�D �GH� FXVXW� VDX� EURGDW�� P WDVHD� FUXG � WUHEXLH� FXU DW �� GXEODW � úL� U VXFLW ��RSHUD LL�QXPLWH�PXOLQDUH��

3DUWHD�SULQFLSDO �D�ILEUHL�GH�P WDVH�HVWH�FRPSXV �GLQ� ILEURLQ , care HVWH� vQYHOLW � SURWHFWRU� vQWU-un strat de VHULFLQ . Separarea acestora se UHDOL]HD] �SULQ�ILHUEHUHD�P W VLL�vQtr-o�VROX LH�DSRDV ,�VODE�DOFDOLQ ��FX�DGDRV�GH�V SXQ��RSHUD LH�QXPLW �degomare.

)LEUD� GH� P WDVH� este una dintre cele mai lucioase fibre naturale, FDUDFWHULVWLF � HYLGHQ LDW � GXS � GHJRPDUH� úL� SRDWH� SUH]HQWD un luciu plin �P WDVHD�EUXW ��VDX�SXWHUQLF��P WDVHD�GHJRPDW ���Culoarea�YDULD] �GH�OD�DOE�VWU OXFLWRU� OD� JDOEHQ� YLX� GDWRULW � VHULFLQHL� FRORUDWH� FDUH� DFRSHU � ILEURLQD (DOE , iar� XQHRUL� URúFDW � VDX� YHU]XLH).�(VWH� R� ILEU � HODVWLF � úL� XQVXURDV � OD�SLS LW�

La mLFURVFRS�� P WDVHD� VH� SUH]LQW � VXE� IRUPD� D� GRX � ILODPHQWH��FRUHVSXQ] WRDUH�RULILFLLORU�VHFUHWRDUH�DOH�YLHUPLORU�GH�P WDVH���între care se REVHUY � XQ� VSD LX� JRO�� vQWUHUXSW� vQ� XQHOH� ]RQH� GH� VWUDWXO� GH� VHULFLQ � În VHF LXQH� WUDQVYHUVDO �� FHOH� GRX � ILODPHQWH� SRt fi observate cu mai mare XúXULQ �

0 WDVHD� DUH� R� PDUH� FDSDFLWDWH� GH� DEVRUE LH� D� DSHL (este mai KLJURVFRSLF �GHFkW�EXPEDFXO��úL�SUH]LQW �R� UHSUL] �GH����∗. Prin umezire, UH]LVWHQ D�P W VLL� VFDGH�FX�FirFD������HODVWLFLWDWHD� VSRUHúWH� FX�Firca 25%, vQV �DSD�GXU �vL�UHGXFH�OXFLXO�úL�PROLFLXQHD�

ÌQ� DSURSLHUHD� IO F ULL�� ILEUD� GH� P WDVH� QX� VXIHU � PRGLILF UL, în IODF U �DUGH�OHQW��FX�XPIO WXUL��HPDQkQG�XQ�PLURV�GH�FRUQ�DUV�úL�IRUPkQG�R�FHQXú �VXE�IRUPD�XQXL�EXOJ UH�VIHULF��GH�FXORDUH�QHDJU ��/D�����&��P WDVHD�se distruge rapid.

În contact cu VROX LL�FRQFHQWUDWH�GH�KLGUR[LG�GH�VRGLX�VDX�GH�SRWDVLX��P WDVHD� HVWH� GL]ROYDW � FRPSOHW�� FX� GHJDMDUH� GH� DPRQLDF�� ùL� acizii (acidul VXOIXULF�úL�FORUKLGULF��FRQFHQWUD L�FRQGXF�OD�GL]ROYDUHD�P W VLL��6XE�DF LXQHD�razelor solare (dXS � ���� GH� RUH� GH� H[SXQHUH��P WDVHD� vúL� SLHUGH� ����GLQ�durabilitatea sa.

Este una dintre fibrele naturale FX� FHD� PDL� PDUH� DILQLWDWH� ID � GH�FRORUDQ L��SXWkQG�IL�YRSVLW �úL�OD�UHFH�

∗ � ����� � � ����� ���� ���������� ������� ��� ��� � � �� � �� ����� � � � ��������� �� ��� ��� �� ��� �� � � ���� ������ �� � �! � ������ �"� � �#����! � ��� $� � ���� �&%'�

procent de co ���� � � ���� �(�)�� � ���� ��� � ��� �(� ��*����

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

0 WDVHD� IDFH� SDUWH� GLQWUH� fibrele naturale cele mai rezistente (46 kgf/mm2) iar alungirea la rupere este în medie de 13%.

Este UHD�FRQGXF WRDUH�GH�HOHFWULFLWDWH�úL de�F OGXU �úL, de aceea, este IRORVLW �OD�IDEULFDUHD�HúDUIHORU, a fularelor etc.

3H� OkQJ � P WDVHD� SURYHQLW � GH� OD� YLHUPLL� GH� P WDVH� GRPHVWLFL L��KU QL L� FX� IUXQ]H� de dud, H[LVW � úL� DúD� QXPLWD�P WDVH� V OEDWLF �� UHVSHFWLY P WDVHD�7XVah (Tusor) úL�P WDVHD�'uppioni.

0 WDVHD�7XVDK�HVWH�SURGXV �GH�VSHFLL�GH� IOXWXUL�GH�QRDSWH�V OEDWLFL�VDX�VHPLV OEDWLFL�GLQ�([WUHPXO�2ULHQW��-DSRQLD�úL�&KLQD��care se KU QHsc cu frunze de stejaU�� FDVWDQ� VDX� IDJ��$FHVW� WLS� GH�P WDVH� HVWH� IRDUWH� DSUHFLDW �GDWRULW � FRORUD LHL� VDOH� JDOEHQ-YHU]XL� �P WDVHD� MDSRQH] ��� FDIHQLX-J OEXL��P WDVHa� FKLQH]HDVF �� VDX� QHJULFLRDV � �P WDVHD� LQGLDQ ��� (VWH� VXSHULRDU �P W VLL�SURYHQLWH�GH�OD�YLHUPLL�GRPHVWLFL��SULQ�UH]LVWHQ �úL�UDQGDPHQW�

0 WDVHD� 'uppioni este SURGXV � simultan GH� GRL� YLHUPL� GH�P WDVH FDUH� IRUPHD] � vPSUHXQ � JRJRDúD, producându-VH� DVWIHO� R� ILEU � GXEO ��IRORVLW �OD�SURGXFHUHD�úDQWXQJXOXL.

0 WDVHD�SURYHQLW �GH�OD�S LDQMHQL�DUH�XQ�GRPHQLX�GH�XWLOL]DUH�OLmitat úL� VH� IRORVHVúWH�PDL� DOHV� OD� IDEULFDUHD� WHOHVFRDSHORU� úL� D� DOWRU� LQVWUXPHQWH�optice.

N\ORQXO� úL� SROLHVWHUXO�� fibre mai rezistente úL� PDL� LHIWLQH� decât P WDVHD�� au UHSUH]HQWDW� OD� vQFHSXWXO� LQYHQW ULL� ORU� XQ� FRQFXUHQW puternic pentru SURGXF LD�GH�P WDVe, care a cunoscut de-a lungul timpului o serie de IOXFWXD LL�

/kQD�úL�S UXULOH�DQLPDOH. Principalul component al fibrelor naturale GH�RULJLQH�DQLPDO ��S UXUL��OkQ �úL�EODQ ��HVWH�FKHUDWLQD�SURWHLF . &X�WRDWH�F �p UXULOe animale pot ajunge la lungimi de pâQ �OD����FP��OXQJLPHD�QRUPDO �este de maximum 41 cm.

'DWRULW � lungimii lor reduse (fibrele de OkQ � úL� S UXULOH� DQLPDOH�nefiind fibre continue), pentru a putea IL�WULFRWDWH�VDX� HVXWH, OkQD�úL�S UXULOH�animale trebuie toarse (filate) în fire.

7RDWH�S UXULle animale pot fi comercializate sub denumirea JHQHULF �GH� OkQ � VDX sub numele animalului de la care provin� �H[HPSOX�� S U� GH�F PLO �� În afara oilor, aOWH�DQLPDOH�IRORVLWH�FD�VXUVH�GH�S UXUL� WH[WLOH�VXQW��F PLOHOH�� ODPHOH�� DOSDFDXD�� LHSXULL�� FDSUHOH� $ngora� úL� FDSUHOH� .DVKPLU��vicuna etc.

Lâna SURYHQLW � GH� OD� RL� HVWH� SULQFLSDOD� ILEU � QDWXUDO � SURWHLF �IRORVLW �OD�IDEULFDUHD�PDWHULDOHORU�WH[WLOH��(D�HVWH�R�ILEU �PRDOH��RQGXODW sau GUHDSW ��FDUH�VH�RE LQH�SULQ�WXQGHUHD�DQLPDOXOXL�GRPHVWLF�vQ�YLD ��R�VLQJXU �GDW �SH�DQ��SULP YDUD� �vQ�XQHOH� UL�FX�FOLP �FDOG ��RLOH�FX� OkQ �DVSU �VDX�RE LQXWH�GLQ�UDVH� vQFUXFLúDWH,�VH� WXQG�GH�GRX �VDX�GH�PDL�PXOWH�RUL�SH�DQ���3URGXVXO� SULPHL� WXQGHUL� SRDUW � QXPHOH� GH� cojoc sau tunsoare. Acesta

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Merceologie

FRQ LQH�R�VHULH�GH�LPSXULW L�QDWXUDOH��JU VLPL���GREkQGLWH��SDLH��VFDLH L��SUDI��QRURL�� úL� DSOLFDWH� �GH� OD�FRPEDWHUHD�G XQ WRULORU��D�EROLORU��GH� OD�PDUFDUHD�lor etc.).

3URGXF LD� GH� OkQ � D� RLORU� HVWH� LQIOXHQ DW � GH� FOLP �� QXWUL LH� úL�vQJULMLUHD� DQLPDOXOXL�� RLOH� QHJOLMDWH� SURGXFkQG� OkQ � GH� IRDUWH� VODE � FDOLWDWH��DSUHFLDW �GUHSW�S U�GH�RDLH�úL�QX�OkQ ��

&HO�PDL�PDUH�SURGXF WRU�GH� OkQ �HVWH�$XVWUDOLD������GLQ�SURGXF LD�PRQGLDO ��� XUPDW � GH� IRVWHOH� UHSXEOLFL� VRYLHWLFH�� 1RXD� =HHOHQDG �� &KLQD��$UJHQWLQD��$IULFD�GH�6XG�úL�8UXJXDL�

Cojocul se taie ckW�PDL�DSURDSH�GH�SLHOH�úL�HVWH�VFRV�VXE�IRUPD�XQHL�VLQJXUH�SLHVH��DYkQG�R�PDV �PHGLH�GH�Firca 4,5 kg. /kQD�GLQ�FRMRF�YDULD] �IRDUWH�PXOW�GH� OD�R�]RQ � OD�DOWD��FD�OXQJLPH��ILQH H�úL� VWUXFWXU � �OkQD�GH�SH�umerii� úL� S U LOH� ODWHUDOH ale animalului este superLRDU calitativ celei din ]RQD�DOWRU�S U L�DQDWRPLFH).

&DOLWDWHD�ILEUHORU�GH�OkQ �YDULD] �úL�GH�OD�R�UDV �OD�DOWD��În România, principalele rase de oi sunt: PHULQRV��VSDQF �� LJDLH��VWRJRú �úL� XUFDQ . Cea PDL�EXQ �OkQ �VH�RE LQH�GH�OD�UDVD�SXU �GH�PHULQRV�úL�WRFPDL�GH�DFHHD�HD�D�suferit o serie de vQFUXúLú UL cu alte rase de oi,� FX� ILEUH�PDL� OXQJL� úL�PDL�aspre. DLQ�SURGXF LD�PRQGLDO �GH�OkQ , circa 40% HVWH�OkQ �PHULQRV�LDU�43% este OkQD�RE LQXW �GLQ�vQFUXFLúDUHD�DFHVWHLD�FX�DOWH�UDVH. Restul de 17% este fRUPDW�GLQ�OkQ �SHQWUX�FRYRDUH��WDSLVHULL�úL�S WXUL��

&ODVLILFDUHD�OkQLL�úL�stabilirea valorii ei�GH�SLD �VH�IDF�vQ�IXQF LH�GH�OXQJLPHD�úL�GH�ILQH HD�ILEUHL��'H�DVHPHQHD��SHQWUX�FODVLILFDUH��VH� LQH�FRQW�úL�GH� SURSULHW LOH� OkQLL�� UHVSHFWLY� GH� UH]LVWHQ H�� HODVWLFLWDWH�� RQGXOD LH� úL�uniformitatea fibrelor.

ÌQ� FRPHU XO� LQWHUQD LRQDO�� OkQD� VH� FODVLILF � SH� ED]D� sistemului bradfordian��UHVSHFWLY�D�QXP UXOXL�GH�VFXOXUL�D��������P de fir care se pot RE LQH� GLQ� ���� J� OkQ �� SULQ� ILODUH� vQ� FRQGL LL� RSWLPH� �GLQ� DFHHDúL�PDV � GH�ILEUH�VH�RE LQH�XQ�ILU�FX�DWkW�PDL�OXQJ�FX�FkW�ILEUHOH�VXQW�PDL�VXE LUL�2.

ÌQ� 5RPkQLD�� OkQD� VH� FODVLILF � vQ� OkQ �� ILQ (fibre ondulate, cu un GLDPHWUX�GH�SkQ �OD��� m)��VHPLILQ �PDL�SX LQ�RQGXODW � cu un diametru de SkQ � OD� ��� m) �� VHPLJURDV (ILEUH� PDL� DVSUH�� GUHSWH�� HODVWLFH� úL� FX� XQ�GLDPHWUX�GH�SkQ �OD���� m) úL�JURDV (fibre aspre, groase, drepte, cu canal PHGXODU�ODUJ��HODVWLFH�úL�FX�XQ�GLDPHWUX�GH�SHVWH���� m).

ÌQ� FHQWUHOH� GH� VRUWDUH�� SHQWUX� RE LQHUHD� XQRU� ILEUH� RPRJHQH��cojoacele se rup îQ�EXF L��vQ�IXQF LH�GH�]RQHOH�FX�ILEUH�GLIHULWH�FDOLWDWLY��OkQD�QHVS ODW �UH]XOWDW �SXUWkQG�QXPHOH�GH�original.

2 Ionescu- Muscel I.; Cucu V. D. – Merceologia produselor de export-import $(+,� �� � � ��� ��"- ��� �� � � � �.�0/�%)���� ��$1 �� �� � ������2���� ����� �� ��� �2%����� ���� � .� � ��� ��3� �� ��.$.45 �� �� ��% � � $76�8�9�:�$.����*�;�<76'=?>

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

'XS � UHFROWDUH�� OkQD� HVWH� VXSXV � RSHUD LHL� GH� VS ODUH, pentru vQGHS UWDUHD� LPSXULW LORU� YHJHWDOH�� PLQHUDOH� úL� D� VHFUH LLORU� DQLPDOH� RandamentXO�OkQLL�HVWH�GDW�GH�UDSRUWXO�GLQWUH�PDVD�OkQLL�VS ODWH�úL�masa lânii originale.

&D�XUPDUH�D�FDQWLW LL�DSUHFLDELOH�GH�LPSXULW L�YHJHWDOH��OkQD�ILQ �úL�VHPLILQ �HVWH�VXSXV �úL�RSHUD LHL�GH carbonizare, FDUH�FRQVW �vQ�WUDWDUHD�OkQLL�cu acid sulfuric, pentrX� WUDQVIRUPDUHD� FHOXOR]HL� vQ� KLGURFHOXOR] �I UkPLFLRDV �� FH� SRDWH� IL� vQO WXUDW � FX� XúXULQ . /kQD� DVSU � QX� HVWH�FDUERQL]DW ,� GHRDUHFH� UHVWXULOH� YHJHWDOH� VH� SRW� vQO WXUD� FX� XúXULQ � SULQ�DF LXQLOH�PHFDQLFH�GLQ�WLPSXO�VS O ULL�

)LEUD�GH�OkQ �HVWH�R�ILEU �SOXULFHOXODU ��DYkQG�vQ�VWUuFWXU �trei straturi distincte:

� strat cuticular (exterior), cu un aspect solzos, caracteristic; � strat cortical �LQWHUPHGLDU��� QXPLW� úL� FRDM , reprezentând partea SULQFLSDO �D�ILEUHL�úL�FDUH�FRQIHU �OkQLL�UH]LVWHQ �úL�HODVWLFLWDWH;

� strat medular (interior)�� SOLQ� FX� DHU� úL� SLJPHQ L úL care, la lâna VXSHULRDU ,�HVWH�DWkW�GH�VXE LUH��vQFkW�QX�HVWH�YL]LELO�� /D� PLFURVFRS�� P ULPHD�� IRUPD� úL� GLVSXQHUHD� VRO]LORU� FRQVWLWXLH� R�

modalitate de identificare atât�D�ILEUHORU�GH�OkQ ��FkW�úL�D�FDOLW LL�HL��1XP UXO�solzilor varia] � vQ� IXQF LH� GH� ILQH HD� ILEUHL� GH� OkQ � úL� GH� QXP UXO� GH�RQGXOD LL. 6RO]LL� DX� DWkW� XQ� URO� GH� SURWHF LH� FkW� úL� XQ� URO� WHKQRORJLF��favorizând procesul de împâslire. Prin tratare cu clor diluat, solzii se distrug, LDU�OkQD�vúL�Sierde capacitatea de împâslire.

)LEUHOH� GH� OkQ � GH� FDOLWDWH� VXSHULRDU � SUH]LQW � OD� PLFURVFRS� XQ�VLQJXU�VWUDW�GH�VRO]L�PDL�PDUL��GLVSXúL�vQ�MXUXO�GLDPHWUXOXL�ILEUHL��Fibrele de OkQ � GH� FDOLWDWH� PHGLH�SUH]LQW � XQ� GLDPHWUX�PDL�PDUH� úL� GRX � VWUDWXUL� GH�solzi mai mici,�FDUH�VH�vQWUHS WUXQG�XQXO�SH�FHO ODOW��Fibrele inferioare au un GLDPHWUX� úL� PDL� PDUH�� ILLQG� PDL� JURDVH� úL� cu PDL� PXO L� VRO]L� SH�FLUFXPIHULQ �

Culoarea� OkQLL� HVWH� GDW �GH�SLJPHQ LL� FXSULQúL� vQ� VWUDWXO�PHGXODU� úL�SRDWH�YDULD�GH�OD�DOE�SXU�OD�DOE�J lbui, cafeniu-vQFKLV��FHQXúLX�úL�QHJUX��Lâna GH� FXORUL� GLIHULWH� �QHDJU � úL� URúFDW �� SRDUW � QXPHOH� GH� OkQ � VHLQ (OkQ �E O DW ��

Luciul OkQLL� GHSLQGH� GH� XQLIRUPLWDWHD� úL� GH� JUDGXO� GH� QHWH]LPH� DO�ILEUHL��SUHFXP�úL�GH�IRUPD�úL�SR]L LD�VRO]LORU��/kQD�ILQ �úL�Vemifin �SUH]LQW �XQ� OXFLX� P W VRV,� LDU� OkQD� JURDV � DUH� XQ� OXFLX� DSURDSH� PDW�� Luciul lânii VS ODWH� GHSLQGH� GH� FRQ LQXWXO� GH� DS � DO� ILEUHL�� /D� SXUWDUH�� VWRIHOH� GH� OkQ �GHYLQ�OXFLRDVH��GDWRULW �WRFLULL�VRO]LORU�

LQXW � vQ� ORFXUL� XPHGH� úL� QHDHULVLWH�� OkQD� PXFHJ LHúWH�� GHYHQLQG�JDOEHQ �úL�DSRL�QHDJU ��FX�PLURV�VSHFLILF.

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Merceologie

Lungimea�ILEUHORU�GH�OkQ �UHSUH]LQW �OXQJLPHD�PHGLH��GH�OD�XQ�FDS W�OD�FHO ODOW�DO�ILEUHL�úL�SRDWH�IL�OXQJLPH�QDWXUDO ��DWXQFL�FkQG�ILEUD�VH�P VRDU vQ� VWDUH� RQGXODW � VDX� OXQJLPH� UHDO � când onduOD LLOH� VXQW� vQGUHSWDWH� SULQ�întindere.

'LQ�SXQFW�GH�YHGHUH�DO�OXQJLPLL��ILEUHOH�GH�OkQ �VH�FODVLILF �vQ��fibre lungi (cu o lungime mai mare de 10 cm- LJDLH�� VWRJRú � úL� XUFDQ ��� fibre mijlocii �FX� R� OXQJLPH� FXSULQV � vQWUH� �-10 cm-PHULQRV� úL� VSDQF �� úL� fibre scurte (între 3-6 cm).

2QGXOD LD� UHSUH]LQW �GHYLHUHD�ILEUHL�GH� OD� OLQLD�GUHDSW � úL�constituie XQ�FULWHULX�GH�FODVLILFDUH�D�OkQLL��QXP UXO�RQGXOD LLORU�SH�XQLWDWHD�GH�OXQJLPH�úL�vQ O LPHD�ORU���2QGXOD LLOH�LQIOXHQ HD] �SURFHVXO�GH�vPSkVOLUH�D�OkQLL��ILLQd SUHIHUDW � OkQD� FX� RQGXOD LL� GHVH�� /kQD� GH� FHD� PDL� EXQ � FDOLWDWH� DUH� 12-��� RQGXOD LL�FP�� OkQD� PHGLH�� �-�� RQGXOD LL�FP� LDU� OkQD� LQIHULRDU �� 1-��RQGXOD LL�FP��0HULQRVXO�DUH�RQGXOD LL�GHVH,� LDU� XUFDQD�SUH]LQW �R� ILEU �DSURDSH�GUHDSW �

'DWRULW � RQGXOD LLORU�� OkQD� DUH� R� UH]LOLHQ � FRQVLGHUDELO �� $FHDVW �SURSULHWDWH�� DO WXUL� GH� UH]LVWHQ D� OD� WUDF LXQH� úL� HODVWLFLWDWH, confeU �SURGXVHORU� WH[WLOH� GLQ� OkQ capacitatea de a-úL� PHQ LQH� IRUPD,� VXSHULRDU �celorlalte fibre textile.

Higroscopicitatea lânii, comparativ cu cea a altor fibre naturale, este cea mai mare, lâna absorbind din aer circa 15-����GLQWUH�YDSRULL�GH�DS ��LDU�într-R�DWPRVIHU �VDWXUDW �XPLGLWDWHD�OkQLL�poate DMXQJH�SkQ �OD������2�GDW �FX� FUHúWHUHD� XPLGLW LL�� FUHúWH� úL� HODVWLFLWDWHD�� GDU� VH� UHGXFe re]LVWHQ D. ReSUL]D�OkQLL�VS ODWH�HVWH�GH������LDU�OkQD�UHJHQHUDW �DUH�R�UHSUL] �GH�����

ÌQ�DSURSLHUHD�IO F ULL��ILEUD�GH�OkQ �QX�VXIHU �PRGLILF UL��vQ�IODF U �DUGH�OHQW��FX�XPIO WXUL��HPDQkQG�XQ�PLURV�GH�FRUQ�DUV�úL�IRUPkQG�R�FHQXú �DVSU ��VXE�IRUPD�XQXL�EXOJ UH�VIHULF��GH�FXORDUH�QHDJU ��3ULQ�vQF O]LUe, lâna OXFLRDV �GHYLQH�PDW , iar�vQF O]LW �OD�R�WHPSHUDWXU de SkQ �OD���0°C devine SODVWLF �� S VWUkQG� IRUPD� FDUH� L-D� IRVW� GDW �� PDL� DOHV� GXS � R� XPH]LUH�SUHDODELO ��SURSULHWDWHD� HV WXULORU�GH�OkQ �GH�D�IRUPD�cute durabile).

6ROX LLOH� DOFDOLQH� GLOXDWH� VDX� FRQFHQWUDWH distrug lâna, efectul GHSLQ]kQG�GH�FRQFHQWUD LH�úL�GH�WHPSHUDWXU ��OkQD�WUDWDW �FX�1D2+�LD�IRUP �LQHODU ��LDU�SULQ�ILHUEHUH�FX�1D2+�����OkQD�VH�GL]ROY ��

5H]LVWHQ D� OD� DFL]L� D� OkQLL� HVWH� PDL� EXQ � Gecât a fibrelor vegetale, I FkQG� SRVLELO � FDUERQL]DUHD�� YRSVLUHD� úL� ILQLVDUHD� HL� vQ� PHGLL� DFLGH� În FRQWDFW� FX� DFL]L� FRQFHQWUD L�� ILEUHOH� GH� OkQ � VXQW� GHWHULRUDWH�� OD�PLFURVFRS�SUH]HQWkQG� XQ� DVSHFW� ]GUHQ URV�� $FLGXO� D]RWLF� FRQFHQWUDW� FRORUHD] � vQ�galben fLEUHOH� GH� OkQ �� OH� XPIO � úL� OH� GLVWUXJH, iar acidul sulfuric distruge SLJPHQ LL� I U �D�GHJUDGD�ILEUHOH�

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

/kQD�HVWH�UHODWLY�VWDELO �ID �GH�R[LGDQ L, VXE�DF LXQHD�R[LJHQXOXL�úL�D�luminii solare lâna îQFHSH�V �VH� vQJ OEHQHDVF , iar UH]LVWHQ D�úL�FDSDFLWDWHD�de împâslire se reduc.

Clorul LPSULP �OkQLL�R�DILQLWDWH�PDL�PDUH�ID �GH�FRORUDQ L�úL�XQ�OXFLX�PDL�SXWHUQLF� �GDWRULW � GLVWUXJHULL� VRO]LORU�� FHHD�FH� IDFH� úL� FD� OkQD� V � QX� VH�PDL� vQFkOFHDVF ��� GDU� FRQGXFH� OD� SLHUGHUHD� vQ� PDV � D� OkQLL�� la reducerea UH]LVWHQ HL�OD�UXSHUH�úL�D�HODVWLFLW LL�

5H]LVWHQ D�VSHFLILF �D�OkQLL�VH�GDWRUHD] �VWUDWXOXL�FRUWLFDO�DO�ILEUHL�úL�este maL�PDUH� OD� OkQD� ILQ �úL� VHPLILQ � �OD�FDUH� VWUDWXO�PHGXODU� OLSVHúWH, iar VWUDWXO� FRUWLFDO� HVWH� PDL� GH]YROWDW�� úL� PDi UHGXV � OD� OkQD� VHPLJURDV � úL JURDV ��5H]LVWHQ D�YDULD] �vQWUH���-33 Kgf/mm2.

/kQD�DUH�FHD�PDL�PLF �PDV �VSHFLILF – 1,3 g/cm3 dintre toate fibrele naturale.

(ODVWLFLWDWHD� ILEUHORU� GH� OkQ � depinde de HODVWLFLWDWHD� RQGXOD LLORU, de elasticitatea volumului (capacitatea de a reveni la voOXPXO� LQL LDO� GXS �vQFHWDUHD�IRU HL�GH�FRPSUHVLXQH��úL�GH�elasticitatea la întindere (capacitatea fiEUHL� GH� D� UHYHQL� OD� OXQJLPHD� LQL LDO � FkQG� IRU D� GH� WUDF LXQH� vQFHWHD] �. /kQD�SURYHQLW �GH�OD�RL�EROQDYH�úL�OkQD�GHWHULRUDW �DX o elaVWLFLWDWH�UHGXV �

ElasWLFLWDWHD� FRQIHU � SURGXVHORU� GLQ� OkQ � PROLFLXQH� úL� UH]LVWHQ � OD�X]XU ��0ROLFLXQHD�VH�VLPWH�OD�SLS LW, fibrele fiind moi�FKLDU�GDF �VXQW�JURDVH�

Lâna este UHD�FRQGXF WRDUH�GH�HOHFWULFLWDWH�úL un bun izolator termic. Pe etichetele de produs, trebuie specificat tipul lânii utilizate. Din

acest punct de vedere, lîna poate fi: QRX ,�UHSUHOXFUDW �úL�UHIRORVLW . /kQD� QRX sau OkQD� YLUJLQ este lâna care nu a mai fost QLFLRGDW �

SUHOXFUDW � VSUH� GHosebire de lâna UHSUHOXFUDW , la care fibrele sunt UHFXSHUDWH�GLQ�GHúHXULOH�GH�OD�W LHUH��GH�OD�GLYHUVHOH�PRVWUH�úL�GLQ�U P úL ele de la filaturi,�FDUH�VXQW�DGXVH�GLQ�QRX�vQ�VWDUH�GH�ILEU ��Lâna UHJHQHUDW este OkQD�UHFXSHUDW �GLQ�SURGXVH�GHMD�IRORVLWH��GLQ�]GUHQ H��úL�FDUH�HVWH�UHILODW �úL�UH HVXW � VDX� UHWULFRWDW �� $FHDVW lân � DUH� ILEUH� VFXUWH� úL� GHWHULRUDWH� úL, de aceea,�VH�ILOHD] �vQ�DPHVWHF�FX�OkQD�GH�WXQVRDUH��$FHVW�WLS�GH�OkQ �VH�GLVWLQJH�FX� XúXULQ � OD� PLFURVFRS,� GHRDUHFH� DSDUH� GLYHUV� FRORUDW �� FX� GLDPHWUH�GLIHULWH�úL,�GH�PXOWH�RUL��FX�FDSHWHOH�GHVWU PDWH��VXE�IRUP �de pensul ���/âna UHJHQHUDW � QX� IRUPHD] � RELHFW� DO tUDQ]DF LLORU� LQWHUQD LRQDOH�� vQV � VH� YkQG ]GUHQ H� GLQ� FDUH� VH� YD� RE LQH� DFHVW� WLS� GH� OkQ �� SUHFXP� úL� SURGXVH� ILQLWH�RE LQXWH�GLQ�DFHVW�WLS�GH�ILEUH�

$O WXUL�GH�SURGXF LD�GH�OkQ ��PDL�H[LVW �úL�R�FDQWLWDWH�UHGXV �GH�OkQ �RE LQXW � GH� OD� DOWH� DQLPDOH�� SULQWUH� FDUH�� ODPD�� F PLOD�� DOSDFDXD�� FDSUHOH�$QJRUD�úL�.DVKPLU��YLFXQD��FDOXO�HWF�

AceaVWD�VH�XWLOL]HD] �ILH�vQ�DPHVWHF�FX�OkQD��ILH�VHSDUDW� 3 UXO�GH�FDSU �FXSULQGH�GRX �FDWHJRULL�GH�ILEUH��ILEUH�DVSUH�úL�ILEUe

moi (puf). (O�HVWH�PDL�JURV�úL�PDL�UH]LVWHQW�GHFkW�OkQD�GH�OD�RL��OXFLRV��QHWHG��

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Merceologie

FX� VDX� I U � RQGXOD LL� úL�GH� FXORDUH�DOE-J OEXL� VDX�FDIHQLX��Caprele de rase VXSHULRDUH��$QJRUD�VDX�0RKDLU��GDX�ILEUH�PRL��GH�R�FDOLWDWH�FRPSDUDELO �FX�FHD�D�OkQLL�SLHSW QDWH.

Mohairul�SURYLQH�GLQ�S UXO�FDSrHL�GH�$QJRUD�FDUH�FUHúWH�vQ�VSHFLDO�vQ�$VLD�0LF . El are�R�ILEU � ILQ ��neomoJHQ �� OXFLRDV ��GH�FXORDUH�DOE-J OEXL�VDX� FHQXúLH�� OXQJ � ���-��� FP��� RQGXODW �� FX� XQ� DVSHFW� puternic P W VRV��IRDUWH�UH]LVWHQW �úL�FX�R�FDSDFLWDWH�GH�vPSkVOLUH�UHGXV �

Kashmirul HVWH�SURGXV�GH�FDSUD�FX�DFHODúL�QXPH��FDUH�FUHúWH�vQ�7LEHW��în regiunea Himalaia.

3 UXO�GH�F PLO DUH�R�FXORDUH�VSHFLILF ��WDEDF���XQ� OXFLX�SURQXQ DW��SUH]LQW � R� UH]LVWHQ � OD� WUDF LXQH�PDL�PDUH� GHFkW� D� OkQLL� úL� R� FDSDFLWDWH�de PXUG ULUH� úL� GH� vPSkVOLUH�PDL� UHGXVH�� )LEUHOH� VXQW� QHRPRJHQH�� FRQ LQkQG�SXI�� S U�PHGLX� úL� S U� DVSUX�� GDU� SUH]LQW � XQ� OXFLX�PDL� SURQXQ DW� GHFkW� DO�lânii. 'LQ�IDPLOLD�F PLOHL�PDL�IDF�SDUWH��ODPD��DOSDFDXD��YLFXQD�úL�JXDQDFR, DO�F URU�S U�este utilizat în SURGXF LD�GH�WH[WLOH�

3 UXO�GH�FDO HVWH�UHFROWDW�GH�SH�FRDP ��S U�GH�FDOLWDWH�LQIHULRDU ��PDL�VXE LUH�úL�PDL�VXSOX��QXPLW�úL�S U�GH�&KLQD��úL�GLQ�FRDG ��PDL�DVSUX��JURV�úL�UH]LVWHQW���(VWH�IRDUWH�DSUHFLDW�SHQWUX�HODVWLFLWDWHD�úL�UH]LVWHQ D�VD3.

Fibre natuUDOH�GH�RULJLQH�YHJHWDO ([LVW �SDWUX�WLSXUL�SULQFLSDOH�GH�ILEUH�YHJHWDOH��ILEUH�GH�VHPLQ H, care

sunt fibUHOH�FH�vQFRQMRDU �VHPLQ HOH unor plante (bumbacul, kapocul); fibre liberiene, fibre rezistente, care la majoritatea dicotiledonatelor sunt dispuse îQ� WXOSLQ � �LQ�� FkQHS �� UDPLH�� VLVDO�� FKHQDI� HWF��; fibre vasculare, fibrele rezistente dispuse în corpul frunzelor monocotiledonatelor (manila, sisal)�úL�fibre de fructe, VXE�IRUPD�XQRU�SHUL�SUHVD L, FDUH�vPEUDF �IUXFWXO�DLGRPD�XQHL�palisade (cocosul).

Fibrele vegetaOH� VXQW� SUHGRPLQDQW� FHOXOR]LFH� úL� spre deosebire de ILEUHOH� DQLPDOH� SURWHLFH� UH]LVW � OD� DF LXQHD� ED]HORU�� D� PDMRULW LL� DFL]LORU�organici,� GDU� VXQW� GLVWUXVH� GH� DFL]LL� PLQHUDOL� SXWHUQLFL�� 2� vQ OELUH�QHFRUHVSXQ] WRDUH�SRDWH�GHWHULRUD�VDX�GLVWUXJH aceste fibre.

'LQWUH� ILEUHOH� GH� VHPLQ H�� QXPDL� EXPEDFXO� úL� NDSRFXO� SUH]LQW �LPSRUWDQ �FRPHUFLDO �

Bumbacul HVWH� R� ILEU � PRQRFHOXODU � úL� UHSUH]LQW � prelungirea HSLGHUPLF �D�FRMLL�VHPLQ HORU�SODQWHL�GLQ�JHQXO�*RVV\SLXP�

/D�IHO�FD�úL�P WDVHD��EXPEDFXO�HVWH�FXOWLYDW�GH�R�OXQJ �SHULRDG �GH�WLPS��vQ�0H[LF�DX�IRVW�GHVFRSHULWH�ILEUH�GH�EXPEDF�úL�IUDJPHQWH�GH�VHPLQ H�

3 Ionescu- Muscel I.; Stoian E.; Atanasie I. – @�A'B�C B�C2D�E�F�E�A'G�E�H�I H�J7K E.L5M�A'H�D�N.O'EPC E)Q�C K I E#R�K(S T�G I F�K T�C E , Editura U ��3� �� $�45 �� �� ��% � � $?6�8�9�=�$.����*�; 6�V�W -166;

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

cu o vechime de peste 7000 de ani, iar în India bumbacul este cultivat de cel SX LQ� ����� GH� DQL�� De asemenea, în antichitate, bumbacul era folosit în China��(JLSW�úL�SH continentul american.

În prezent, sH� FXOWLY � SHVWH� �0 de specii de bumbac, dintre care o serie de specii sunt modificate genetic, GLIHUHQ LDWH�SULQ�FDOLWDWHD��FDQWLWDWHD�úL� OXQJLPHD� ILEUHORU�� SULQ� IRUPD� úL� P ULPHD� SODQWHL� úL� SULQ� SHULRDda de YHJHWD LH�

'LQWUH� DFHVWH� VSHFLL�� QXPDL� FkWHYD� SUH]LQW � LPSRUWDQ � FRPHUFLDO ��fiind cultivate în cirFD����GH� UL��(JLSW� úL� 6XGDQ� �SHQWUX� EXPEDF� FX� ILEU �H[WUDOXQJ � úL� OXQJ ��DOE�úL� FX�XQ�SURQXQ DW�JUDG�GH� OXFLX��� în Asia (China, India), în Brazilia, Mexic úL�vn Statele Unite ale Americii.

6 PkQ D� SURGXV � GH� EXPEDF� HVWH� vQYHOLW � vQ� ILEUH� GH� EXPEDF cu lungimi de 5-���PP��GXS �VHSDUDUHD�F URUD��la unele specii, VHPLQ HOH�U PkQ�JRODúH��LDU�la altele, acoperite cu un puf cu lungimi de 6 mm, numit linters.

'XS � FXOHJHUHD�PDQXDO � VDX�PHFDQL]DW � D� EXPEDFXOXL�� DFHVWD� HVWH�VXSXV� PDL� PXOWRU� RSHUD LL�� vQ� VWD LL� VSHFLDOH� QXPLWH� VWD LL� GH� HJUHQDUH, respectiv:

¾ FXU DUHD� ILEUHORU� GH� LPSXULW LOH� YHJHWDOH� úL� PLQHUDOH� (coji, IUXQ]H��SUDI��S PkQW�HWF���SULQ�GHVWU PDUH�úi ventilare;

¾ egrenarea (VHSDUDUHD�ILEUHORU�GH�VHPLQ H�� ¾ lintersarea��VHSDUDUHD�GH�SH�VHPLQ HOH�HJUHQDWH�D�OLQWHUVXOXL�� ¾ SUHVDUHD� EXPEDFXOXL� HJUHQDW� � vQ� EDOR L�� vQ� YHGHUHD� OLYU ULL� OXL�F WUH�ILODWXUL�

¾ SUHVDUHD� OLQWHUVXOXL� vQ� EDOR L�� vQ� YHGHUHD� OLYU ULL� F WUe o serie de ramuri ale industriei chimice (explozivi, lacuri etc.);

¾ DPEDODUHD�úL�PDUFDUHD� &X�RFD]LD�RSHUD LLORU�GH�HJUHQDUH�VXQW�vQGHS UWDWH�ILEUHOH�GH�EXPEDF�

cu defecte: noduri fibroase, fibre neajunse la maturitate, fibre atacate de EDFWHULL�úL�FLXSHUFi, fibre de bumbac mort etc.

ÌQDLQWH� GH� FXOHV�� vQ� DSURSLHUHD� ID]HL� GH� PDWXULWDWH� GHSOLQ �� ILEUHOH�SLHUG�R�SDUWH�GLQ�XPLGLWDWH�� VH� WXUWHVF� úL� FDS W � IRUPD�XQHL�EHQ]L��$FHDVWD�HVWH�úL�PDL�YL]LELO �OD�PLFURVFRS��XQGH�EXPEDFXO�VH�SUH]LQW �VXE�IRUPD�XQHL�pangliFL� U VXFLWH�� FX� XQ� FDQDO� LQWHULRU� QXPLW� lumen, mult mai gros decât SHUH LL�ILEUHL.

)LEUD�GH�EXPEDF�HVWH�DOF WXLW �GLQ�XUP WRDUHOH�S U L�FRPSRQHQWH� � FXWLFXO sau peretele primar; � peretele secundar; � canalul interior sau lumenul. Spre deosebire de bumbacul ajuns la maturitate, bumbacul mort sau

QHDMXQV�OD�PDWXULWDWH�VH�SUH]LQW �VXE�IRUPD�XQRU�EHQ]L�ODWH��QHWRUVLRQDWH, dar cu îndoituri caracteristice sub un unghi de 90°, transparente� úL� OXFLRDVH�

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Merceologie

%XPEDFXO�PRUW�QX� VH�YRSVHúWH, iar în produsul finit apare sub forma unor purici4.

Bumbacul mercerizat �vQ� YHGHUHD� FUHúWHULL� OXFLXOXL�� EXPEDFXO� HVWH�WUDWDW� FX� R� VROX LH� GH� 1D2+� úL� VXSXV� OD� R� WHQVLXQH� PHFDQLF �� are la microscop un aspect cilindric, iar fibra este XPIODW � úL� WUDQVSDUHQW �� I U �U VXFLWXUL�úL�FX�XQ�Oumen foDUWH�VXE LUH��FD�R�OLQLH��

%XPEDFXO� HVWH� R� LPSRUWDQW � PDWHULH� SULP � SHQWUX� R� JDP � IRDUWH�YDULDW � GH� SURGXVH� WH[WLOH�� /DUJD� OXL� XWLOL]DUH� VH� GDWRUHD] � XúXULQ HL� GH�transformare a fibrelor în fire, KLJURVFRSLFLW LL� úL� EXQHL� FRPSRUW UL� OD�VS ODUH� úL� XVFDUH�� LDU� FRQ LQXWXO� PDUH� GH� FHOXOR] � vL� FRQIHU � UH]LVWHQ ��VXSOH H��HODVWLFLWDWH�úL�EXQH�DSWLWXGLQL�GH�ILQLVDUH��

&DOLWDWHD� ILEUHORU� GH� EXPEDF� VH� DSUHFLD] � vQ� IXQF LH� GH�� OXQJLPHD��UH]LVWHQ D��HODVWLFLWDWHD��ILQH HD��FXORDUHD�úL�OXFLXO�ILEUHL�

Fibrele de bumbac fac parte din categoria fibrelor scurte. Lungimea úL� ILQH HD� ILEUHORU� UHSUH]LQW � SULQFLSDOHOH� FDUDFWHULVWLFL� WHKQRORJLFH� DOH�EXPEDFXOXL�� vQ� IXQF LH� GH� FDUH� ILEUHOH� YRU� IL� WUDQVIRUPDWH� vQ� ILUH� JURDVH��PLMORFLL�úL�VXE LUL�

Determinarea lungimii fibrelor de� EXPEDF� VH� ED]HD] � SH� VRUWDUHD�ILEUHORU� vQ� FODVH� GH� OXQJLPH� úL� VWDELOLUHD� OXQJLPLL� PRGXO� úL� D� OXQJLPLL�filatorului (lungimea stapel).� 3HQWUX� DFHDVW � GHWHUPLQDUH�� ILEUHOH� VXQW�SDUDOHOL]DWH� úL� DSRL� sunt extrase treptat fibrele de diferite lungimi, formându-se astfel R�FXUE ��5DPXUD�XUF WRDUH�D�FXUEHL�UHSUH]LQW �ILEUHOH�cu R�OXQJLPH�PDL�UHGXV �GHFkW lungimea modul; cu cât vârful curbei este mai ULGLFDW�� FX� DWkW� EXPEDFXO� HVWH� PDL� UHJXODW� �SDUWHD� PDMRULWDU � D� ILEUHORU�situându-se în jurul lungimii modul).�'XS �sortare, se VWDELOHúWH�clasa modul (clasa de lungime FX� IUHFYHQ D�FHD�PDL�PDUH�, bumbacul fiind cu atât mai apreciat cu cât vârful curbei este situat mai la dreapta. Lungimea medie a ILEUHORU�FRUHVSXQ] WRDUH�UDPXULL�GLQ�GUHDSWD�UHSUH]LQW �lungimea comerciaO �a fibrelor de bumbac, care mai SRDUW numele de lungimea filatorului sau lungimea stapel.

Fibrele cu lungimea stapel mare sunt transformate în fire fine, rezistente, care sunt apoi folosite la fabricarea produselor textile fine, iar fibrele cu lungimea�VWDSHO�PLF �VXQW�IRORVLWH�SHQWUX�WHV WXUL�GXUDELOH�

'LQ�SXQFW�GH�YHGHUH�DO� OXQJLPLL��EXPEDFXO� VH�FODVLILF � vQ��bumbac extralung, cu o lungime a filatorului de peste 45 mm, bumbac lung: 34-45 mm, bumbac mijlociu: 28-34 mm úL bumbac scurt, sub 28 mm.

)LQH ea bumbacului� VH� H[SULP � SULQ� QXP UXO� PHWULF� (1P�� úL� vQ�PLOLWH[� úL� YDULD] � vQWUH� 1P� �����-12.000. În general, cu cât lungimea

4 - � ��.%'� �-); >�X �� ���� � �-); >�Y0� �� ������ �(- ; >?Z��3�� � ��� �-); – [#E�C H�D�E2R�K�C E�\�T�K G.K�D�E(B�O�K J?N.A'B�A'E2R�K�G�H�T�C A'H�I�B�I�G�B�I K C K K']&A�H�D�N�O�E�I H.A

industr K B�I E�^�_`B�K E�C�D�E2I B�a�H�A'B�C H�A�]�E�T�C A�N&]&A�H�D�N.O'E�I E2C E�Q�C K I E2R�K�D�E?]`K E�I A�K E $.b&� � "Y�; Z7; cd; $�45 �� �� ��% � �e6�8�f�8�$.����*�;�W�8 -31;

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bumbacului FUHúWH��FX�DWkW�HO�HVWH�PDL�ILQ��vQV �R�ILQH H�H[DJHUDW �D�ILEUHORU�FRQGXFH�OD�vQFkOFLUHD�úL�vQQRGDUHD�DFHVWRUD�

Din puQFW�GH�YHGHUH�DO� ILQH LL��EXPEDFXO�HVWH� FODVLILFDW� vQ��bumbac fin, fibre cu diametrul de SkQ � OD� ��� m; EXPEDF� RELúQXLW, cu diamterul cuprins între 20-��� m�úL bumbac gros, FX�GLDPHWUXO�ILEUHL�GH�SHVWH���� m.

În general, fibra de bumbac se poate caracterizD� FD� R� ILEU � ILQ ��HODVWLF ��XQLIRUP �úL�VXSO �

Fibrele de bumbac SUH]LQW �� vQ� JHneral, o culoare DOE � VDX� DOE�J OEXLH�úL�XQ�luciu redus, mat, spre deosebire de bumbacul mercerizat care are un luciu accentuat.

Higroscopicitatea� HVWH� EXQ �� ILEUHOH� DEVRUELQG� FX� XúXULQ �WUDQVSLUD LD��FHHD�FH�OH�IDFH�V �ILH�SO FXWe la purtare. Repriza este 8,5%, iar SHQWUX�GHúHXULOH�GH�EXPEDF�����

ÌQ� DSURSLHUHD� IO F ULL�� ILEUD� GH� EXPEDF� QX� VXIHU � PRGLILF UL�� în IODF U �DUGH�UDSLG�úL�FRQWLQX �V �DUG �úL�OD�VFRDWHUHD�GLQ�IODF U , emanând un PLURV�GH�KkUWLH�DUV �úL�IRUPkQG�R�FHQXú �ILQ ��IULDELO ��GH�FXORDUH�DOE -gri.

Bumbacul are o PDUH� DILQLWDWH� ID � GH� FRORUDQ L, firele putând fi YRSVLWH� úL� LPSULPDWH� FX� XúXULQ �� DVWIHO� vQFkW� VH� SRW� RE LQH� HV WXUL� FX� R�PXOWLWXGLQH�GH�FXORUL�úi imprimeuri.

$FL]LL�PLQHUDOL�FRQFHQWUD L�GHJUDGHD] �EXPEDFXO��WUDQVIRUPkQGX-l în hidrocelulo]H�� LDU� SULQ� vQF O]LUH� FX� DFLG sulfuric concentrat bumbacul este distrus rapid.�&X�VROX LH�GH�LRG-LRGXU �GH�SRWDVLX�úL�DFLG�VXOIXULF�9HWLOODUG��fibra de bumbac apaUH� OD�PLFURVFRS� FRORUDW � vQ� DOEDVWUX�� UHDF LH� VSHFLILF �fibrelor celulozice.

6ROX LLOH�DOFDOLQH��vQ�IXQF LH�GH�FRQFHQWUD LH��WHPSHUDWXU �úL�GXUDW �GH�DF LXQH��WUDQVIRUP �FHOXOR]D�GLQ�EXPEDF�vQ�DOFDOLFHOXOR] ��FDUH, prin simpla VS ODUH�FX�DS ��VH�WUDQVIRUP �vQ�FHOXOR] �UHJHQHUDW �

6ROX LD� FXSURDPRQLDFDO � este solventul cel mai curent al bumbacului, fibra umflându-se atât de mult încât diametUXO� HL� SRDWH� V �FUHDVF �FX�SkQ �OD������.

5H]LVWHQ D�VSHFLILF �D�EXPEDFXOXL�este de 36 kgf/mm2 iar lungimea de rupere eVWH�FXSULQV �vQWUH���-���NP��vQ�IXQF LH�GH�ILQH HD�ILEUHORU�

0DVD�VSHFLILF a fibrelor de bumbac este de 1,48-1,52 g/cm3. Kapocul HVWH�R�DOW �ILEU �QDWXUDO �GH�RULJLQH�YHJHWDO ��DVHP Q WRDUH�

EXPEDFXOXL��SURGXV �GH�FRSDFXO�FX�DFHODúL�QXPH�� Kapocul (ceiba sau arborele de bumbac satinat) este numele unui gen

GH�FRSDFL�FDUH�SRW�DWLQJH�R�vQ O LPH�GH�SHVWH����P�úL�FDUH�VXQW�FXOWLYD L�SH�VFDU �ODUJ �vQ�UHJLXQLOH�WURSLFDOH, mai ales în Insula Java, pentru fibrele lor.

(L�SUH]LQW �IUXQ]H�PDUL��SDOPDWH��LDU�IORULOH�VXQW�vQ�IRUP �GH�FORSRW��SemiQ HOH� ORU� FDSVXODWH� FRQ LQ� ILEUH� VHP Q WRDUH� EXPEDFXOXL�� )LEUHOH� GH NDSRF�VXQW�ILEUH�XúRDUH��FRQ LQ�PXOW�DHU�vQ�OXPHQ���VFXUWH��HODVWLFH��IUDJLOH�úL�

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Merceologie

LPSHUPHDELOH�úL, tocmai de aceea,�HOH�QX�SRW�IL�WRDUVH�úL� HVXWH�FD�ILEUHOH�GH EXPEDF��vQV �VXQW�ODUJ�IRORVLWH�FD�PDWHULDOH�GH�XPSOXWXU �vQ�FRODFL�úL�YHVWH de salvare sau ca material izolator.5

3UH]LQW � R� FXORDUH� J OEXLH� úL� VXQW� PDL� OXFLRDVH� GHFkW� ILEUHOH� GH�bumbac.

Fibrele liberiene VH�J VHVF�vQ� HVXWXO�SODQWHORU�FX�DFHODúL�QXPH, unde VXEVWDQ HOH�SHFWLFH�OH�FLPHQWHD] �vQ�DJORPHU UL�GH�IDVFLFXOH��$FHVWH�ILEUH au UROXO� GH� D� FRQIHUL� IOH[LELOLWDWH� SODQWHL� SHQWUX� D� UH]LVWD� OD� DF LXQHD� IRU HORU�H[WHULRDUH�úL�GH�D�SURWHMD�WUDQVSRUWXO�KUDQHL�GH�OD�U G FLQ �VSUH�YkUI�

Fibrele sunt folosite pentru producerea unei�JDPH�YDULDWH�GH� HV WXUL�fine,� JURDVH� VDX� WHKQLFH� úL,� DO WXUL� GH� EXPEDF�� UHSUH]LQW �PDWHULD�SULP � vQ�RE LQHUHD�KkUWLHL�ILQH�VDX�GH�DPEDODM�

La plantele textile dicotiledonate celulele sunt dispuse în coaja tulpinii, iar la monocotiledonate sunt situate în corpul frunzelor.

Fibrele liberiene sunt clasificate în trei categorii: ¾ fibre liberiene moi: iQ�úL� UDPLH� FRWRQL]DW �� FDUH� VXQW fibre suple,

GHVWLQDWH�XQHL�JDPH�ODUJL�GH� HV WXUL�ILQH�úL�JURDVH� ¾ fibre liberiene aspre: cânepa, iuta, chHQDIXO��WHLúRUXO�HWF�, care sunt

PDL�OLJQLILFDWH�GHFkW�LQXO�úL�VH�IRORVHVF�SHQWUX� HV WXUL�GH�VDFL��VIRUL��IUkQJKLL�etc.;

¾ fibre liberiene foarte aspre: manila, sisal, cocos etc., care sunt OLJQLILFDWH� úL� SXWUHVFLELOH� úL� VH� IRORVHVF� OD� IDEULFDUHD� FRYRDUHORU, sforilor, cablurilor etc.

În general, toDWH�DFHVWH�ILEUH�VH�VHSDU �GH�WXlpinile lemnoase printr-o RSHUD LH� FKLPLFR-ELRORJLF �� QXPLW � topire, XUPDW � GH� R� RSHUD LH�PHFDQLF ��SHQWUX� vQGHS UWDUHD� S U LL� OHPQRDVH�� $VWIHO�� VH� RE LQ� GRX � WLSXUL� GH� ILEUH��fuiorul, DOF WXLW�GLQ�ILEUH�OXQJL�úL�FkO LL��compus din fibre scurte, încâlcite, cu JKHPRWRDFH�úL�LPSXULW L�

Inul face parte din familia Linacee, iar fibrele sale sunt pe locul I ca impoUWDQ �GLQ�FDWHJRULD�ILEUHORU�OLEHULHQH��ILLQG�DSUHFLDWH�SHQWUX�UH]LVWHQ D� OXFLXO��GXUDELOLWDWHD�úL�KLJURVFRSLFLWDWHD�ORU�

3ODQWD�HVWH�FXOWLYDW �DWkW�SHQWUX�ILEUHle sale, FDUH�VH�ILOHD] �vQ�YHGHUHD�IDEULF ULL�GH� HV WXUL�cât úL�SHQWUX�VHPLQ H��GLQ�FDUH�VH�H[WUDJH�XOHLXO�GH�LQ�

&XOWLYDUHD�LQXOXL�HVWH�FXQRVFXW � vQF �GLQ�FHOH�PDL�vechi timpuri, în ]RQD� ODFXULORU� HOYH LHQH� fiind dHVFRSHULWH�SODVH� GH� SHVFXLW� úL� vPEU F PLQWH�GLQ�LQ�GDWDW �FX�SHVWH��������GH�DQL�vQ�XUP .�'H�DVHPHQHD��úL�în mormintele egiptene s-au descoperit� R� VHULH� GH� RELHFWH� GH� vPEU F PLQWH� GLQ� LQ�� În Britania, se paUH� F � LQXO� D� IRVW� DGXV� GLQ� ]RQD�0 ULL�0HGLWHUDQH� GH� F WUH�

5 “Ceiba” - Encyclopedia Encarta 2000;

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

FRPHUFLDQ LL� IHQLFLHQL� PDQXIDFWXULOH� GH� LQ� ILLQG� DSRL� LQWURGXVH� GH� F WUH�romani în întregul imperiu.

3ODQWHOH� GH� LQ� FXOWLYDWH� SHQWUX� ILEUH� DWLQJ� vQ O LPi cuprinse între 0,3� úL� ����P� LDU� WXOSLQile VXQW� VXE LUL, cu diametre variind între 2,5-4 mm. Ramurile sunt concentrate în zona vârfului, frunzele� VXQW� PLFL�� vQ� IRUP �ODQFLDW ,� LDU� IORULOH�� GH� RELFHL� EOHX�� FkWHRGDW � DOEH, roz sau violet�� FRQ LQ� 5 petale simetrice.

)LEUHOH�VXQW�RE LQXWH�GLQ�WXOSLQLle plantelor înalte, în urma unei serii de RSHUD LL��FXP�DU�IL: topirea, uscarea, zdrobirea�úL�baterea.

3HQWUX� VFXUWDUHD� SURFHVXOXL� GH� WRSLUH� úL� SHQWUX� FUHúWHUHD� FDOLW LL�fibrelor, s-D�UHQXQ DW�OD�WRSLUHD�QDWXUDO �úL s-D�WUHFXW�OD�FHD�FX�DS �FDOG (la o tHPSHUDWXU � GH� ��-30°&�� FDUH� GXUHD] � QXPDL� �-5 zile), prin care� DSD� úL�microorganismele conduc la descompunerea plantei. $SRL��WXOSLQLOH�VH�XVXF �în aer liber�� FkQG�GHYLQ� I UkPLFLRDVH�VH�]GUREHVF�SH�FDOH�PHFDQLF ��SDUWHD�ILEURDV �LHúLQG�GLQ�PDúLQ �VXE�IRUPD�XQRU�P QXQFKLXUL��QXPLWH�fuioare, cu lungimea de cirFD����FP��vQF UFDWH�GH�DGHUHQ H�OHPQRDVH��QXPLWH�puzderii. ÌQ� ILQDO�� DUH� ORF� R� VHSDUDUH� D� ILEUHORU� GH� SX]GHULL� úL� R� VRUWDUH� D� ILEUHORU�V Q WRDVH�

6SUH� GHRVHELUH� GH� EXPEDF�� ILEUHOH� GH� LQ� FRQ LQ� OLJQLQ �� Feruri, JU VLPL�úL�VXEVWDQ H�SHFWLFH�vQ�FDQWLWDWH�PDL�PDUH�úL� LQVROXELOH�vQ�DS �UHFH��Acestea au� R� IXQF LH� GH� LPSHUPHDELOLWDWH� úL� QX� VH� HOLPLQ � vQ� SURFHVHOH�GH�finisare.�&HUXULOH�úL�JU VLPLOH�FRQGXF�úL�OD�FUHúWHUHD�PROLFLXQLL��D�HODVWLFLW LL�úL�D�FDSDFLW ii de filare a inului, conferind fibrei un aspect unsuros.

Fibrele GH� LQ� VXQW� ILEUH� SOXULFHOXODUH�� D� F URU� lungime YDULD] � vQWUH�10-90� FP� úL� VXQW� DOF WXLWH� GLQ� FHOXOH� GH� IRUP � FLOLQGULF �� FX� VXSUDIH H�aproape netede. Inul superior SUH]LQW �ILEUH�OXQJL��între 50-60 cm, rezistente, VXSOH��HODVWLFH��DOEH�úL�OXFLRDVH�

/D�PLFURVFRS��FHOXOD�SUH]LQW �SHUH L�JURúL��FX�OXPHQXO�VXE�IRUP �GH�OLQLH�DVFX LW �úL�WUDQVSDUHQW �úL,�FkWHRGDW ��QRGXUL�úL�GHSODV UL�GDWRULW �UXSHULL�peretelui în timpul albirii. În lungimea celuOHORU� GH� LQ� VH� REVHUY � GHVHRUL�VWULD LL�ORQJLWXGLQDOH�úL�WUDQVYHUVDOH��vQ�IRUP �FDUDFWHULVWLF �GH�;��ÌQ�VHF LXQH�WUDQVYHUVDO ��ILEUD�GH�LQ�VH�SUH]LQW �VXE�IRUP �XQRU�JUXSXUL�GH�SROLJRDQH��FX�câte un punct în ceQWUX��HYLGHQ LLQGX-se astfel caracterul ei pluricelular.

&RQ LQXWXO�GH�FHOXOR] �DO�LQXOXL�YDULD] �GH�OD�R�UHJLXQH�GH�SURGXFHUH�OD�DOWD�úL, tocmai de aceea, iGHQWLILFDUHD�ILEUHORU�GH� LQ�VH�IDFH� vQ�UHDF LH�FX�DFLGXO� VXOIXULF� 9HWLOODUG� úL� FX� LRG� LRGXU � GH� SRWDVLX�� FkQG� ILEUHOH� VH�FRORUHD] �vQ�DOEDVWUX�SXr, dând UHDF LD�FHOXOR]HL�DSURDSH�SXUH�

Inul poate fi supus unui proces de DOELUH�úL�de cotonizare, prin care DUH� ORF� GL]ROYDUHD� SDU LDO � D� KHPLFHOXOR]HORU� úL� D� VXEVWDQ HORU� SHFWLFH� FX�DMXWRUXO� XQXL� SURFHGHX�PL[W� GH� WUDWDUH� FX� DOFDOLL� úL� GH� DOELUH� FX� R[LGDQ L��

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Merceologie

Fibrele bine cotonizate sunt albe, rezistente,� OXFLRDVH�úL� UHODWLY�DVSUH�� ILLQG FXQRVFXWH�úL�VXE�GHQXPLUHD�GH fibre de cotonin.

Culoarea fibrelor variD] �GH� OD� FXORDUHD�SLHOLL,� OD� FHQXúLX, argintiu, J OEXL� úL� FDVWDQLX�� ILEUD� GH� FHD� PDL� EXQ � FDOLWDWH� Iiind de un alb-J OEXL� &XORDUHD� HYLGHQ LD] � DWkW� JUDGXO� GH� PDWXULWDWH� DO� ILEUHL� FkW� úL� HYHQWXDOHOH�boli ale plantei. 3ULQ�DOELUH��LQXO�FDS W �R�FXORDUH�GH�XQ�DOE�SXU� În general, LQXO�SUH]LQW �XQ luciu mat.

Inul este mai rezistent la atacul microorganismelor decât bumbacul, VH�XVXF �PXOW�PDL�UHSHGH�úL�HVWH�PXOW�PDL�SX LQ�DIHFWDW�GH�DF LXQHD�UD]HORU�solare.

ÌQ� DSURSLHUHD� IO F ULL�� ILEUD� GH� LQ� QX� VXIHU �PRGLILF UL�� vQ� IODF U �DUGH�UDSLG�úL�FRQWLQX �V �DUG �úL�OD�VFRDWHUHD�GLQ�IODF U ��HPDQkQG�XQ�PLURV�de hârtLH�DUV �úL�IRUPkQG�R�FHQXú �ILQ ��IULDELO ��GH�FXORDUH�DOE -gri.

3HQWUX� F �DEVRDUEH� úL� FHGHD] � XPLGLWDWHD� FX� XúXULQ � úL� SHQWUX� F �este EXQ� FRQGXF WRU� GH� F OGXU �� LQXO� HVWH� IRORVLW� OD� FRQIHF LRQDUHD�vPEU F PLQWHL�GH�YDU ��FRQIHULQG�XQ�HIHFW�GH�U FRULUH��

Repriza fibrelor de in este de 12%, iar alungirea la rupere este LQIHULRDU �EXPEDFXOXL, fiind de 2-����FHHD�FH�IDFH�FD�SUHOXFUDUHD�V �ILH�PDL�grea.

Fibra de in este PDL�UH]LVWHQW decât bumbacul la DF LXQHD�DJHQ LORU�chimici��LQFOXVLY�OD�DF LXQHD�DFLGXOXL�sulfuric.

&KLDU� GDF � UH]LVWHQ D� LQXOXL� FUHúWH� vQ� VWDUH� XG , o umiditate peste ���� úL� IRORVLUHD� H[FHVLY � D� SURGXVHORU� DOFDOLQH� SHQWUX� VS ODUH� SRW afecta fibra, reducându-se sarcina de rupere.

Elasticitatea PDL�UHGXV �GHFkW�D�EXPEDFXOXL�úL�WH[WXUD�PRDOH fac ca LQXO� V � VH� vQFUH HDVF �� WHQGLQ � FDUH� VH� SRDWH� UHGXFH� SULQtr-o serie de tratamente chimice.

'DWRULW �UH]LVWHQ HL�ULGLFDWH��ILEUHOH�GH�LQ�VXQW�IRORVLWH�úL�OD�IDEULFDUHD�WDSLVHULLORU�� D� KDLQHORU� GH� SURWHF LH�� D� VDFLORU�� FRUWXULORU�� D HORU� SHQWUX�vQF O PLQWH�úL�SHQWUX�OHJDUHD�F U LORU��SUHFXP�úL�vQ�GLIHULWH�VFRSXUL�WHKQLFH�

5H]LVWHQ D� VSHFLILF � D� LQXOXL� HVWH� FXSULQV � vQWUH� ��-60kgf/mm2, iar lungimea de rupere�D�LQXOXL�VXE�IRUP �GH�IXLRU�HVWH�GH������NP��VuSHULRDU �bumbacului.

0DVD�VSHFLILF a inului este 1,5 g/cm3. Cânepa DSDU LQH� IDPLOLHL�Moracee� úL�este numele comun al plantei

asiatice numite Cannabis sativa úL�DO�ILEUHORU�DFHVWHL�SODQWH� Deseori, apare sub denumirea de FkQHS �LQGLDQ �úL�HVWH�FXOWLYDW �vQ�

(XUDVLD�� vQ� 6WDWHOH� 8QLWH� DOH� $PHULFLL� úL� vQ� &KLOH�� DWkW� SHQWUX� ILEUH� FkW� úL�SHQWUX�VHPLQ H�

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

3ODQWD�DUH�R�vQ O LPH�FDUH�YDULD] �GH�OD����FP�OD���P��vQ�IXQF LH de FOLP �úL�GH�WLSXO�GH�VRO��ILEUHOH�ILLQG�GLVSXVH�vQ�FRDMD�WXOSLQLL��FDUH�SUH]LQW �R�IRUP �FRQFDY 6.

/D�IHO�FD�úL�LQXO��FkQHSD�HVWH�R�ILEU �SOXULFHOXODU ��vQV �FHOXOHOH�VXQW�mai puternic consolidate, mai SX LQ� WUDQVSDUHQWH� úL� PDL� QHUHJXODWH� GHFkW�celulele fibrelor de in.

/D�PLFURVFRS��ILEUHOH�GH�FkQHS �VH�SUH]LQW �VXE forma unui cilindru mai neregulat decât la fibrele de in, iar vârful este rotunjit sau ramificat. Vârful ramificat�DO�ILEUHL�GH�FkQHS �FRWRQL]DW �UHSUH]LQW �XQ�DYDQWDM��VSRULQG�capacitatea de filare.� 8QHRUL�� ILEUHOH� SUH]LQW � VWULD LL� VDX� DGkQFLWXUL� úL�GHSODV UL�GDWRULW �ORYLWXULORU�GH�OD�PHOL DUH7.

)LQH HD� ILEUHORU� GHSLQGH� GH� JUDGXO� GH�maturitate al plantei: fibrele PRL��SHQWUX� vPEU F PLQWH��VXQW�RE LQXWH�GH� OD�SODQWH�FXOHVH� vQ�SHULRDGD�GH�polenizare, iar fibrele rezistente, aspre, folosite la fabricarea chingilor, a plaselor de pescuit, frânghiilor, odgoanelor etc., sunt recoltate în perioada de maturitate a plantei.

2SHUD LLOH�GH�RE LQHUH�D�ILEUHORU� úL�GH�SUHOXFUDUH a lor sunt similare celor de la in: tulpiniOH�SDU LDO�GHVFRPSXVH�VXQW�XVFDWH��]GURELWH�úL�P FLQDWH�SHQWUX�VHSDUDUHD�S U LORU�OHPQRDVH�GH�ILEUH�

&D�ILEU �HOHPHQWDU ��FkQHSD�Dre o lungime FXSULQV � vQWUH��-15 mm, LDU�ILEUD�WHKQLF �DUH�R�OXQJLPH�GH�SHVWH�����PP.

Culoarea� ILEUHORU� YDULD] � vQWUH� FHQXúLX-YHU]XL� úL� DOE�� 'XS � DOELUH��cânepa devine galben-aurie sau,�XQHRUL��FHQXúLX-argintLH�úL, cu cât culoarea WLQGH� F WUH alb, cu atât FkQHSD� HVWH� GH� PDL� EXQ � FDOLWDWH�� 'XS � VS ODUL�UHSHWDUH� FX� DS � úL� V SXQ�� DUWLFROHOH� GLQ� FkQHS � FRQWLQX � V � VH� DOEHDVF ��GHYHQLQG�PDL�PRL�úL�FX�XQ�WXúHX�PDL�SO FXW�

Luciul HVWH�PDL�VF ]XW�GHFkW�OD�LQ�úL�GLIHU �GH�OD�R�VSHFLH�OD�DOWD� În aproSLHUH�GH�IODF U �úL�vQ�IODF U , fibra de�FkQHS �VH�FRPSRUW �OD�

fel ca�EXPEDFXO�úL�LQXO, iar DVSHFWXO�FHQXúLL�úL�mirosul degajat este specific fibrelor celulozice.

Spre deosebire de in, ILEUHOH� GH� FkQHS � QX� UH]LVW � OD� F OFDUH, SOHVQLQG�GLQ�FDX]D�WHPSHUDWXULL�úL�D�SUHVLXQLL�úL, de aceea, pentru realizarea FRQIHF LLORU��GH�RELFHL��ILUHOH�GH�FkQHS �VH�DPHVWHF �FX�FHOH�GH�LQ�

Cu iod-LRGXUD� GH� SRWDVLX� úL� DFLGXO� VXOIXULF� 9HWLOODUG�� FkQHSD� G � R�FRORUD LH�DOEDVWU ��VSHFLILF �ILEUHORU�FHOXOR]LFH��vQV �VWUDWXO�H[WHULRU�DO�FHOXOHL�apaUH�FRORUDW�vQ�JDOEHQ��IDSW�FH�GHRVHEHúWH�FkQHSD�GH�LQ�

0DVD�VSHFLILF �D�FkQHSLL�este 1,5 mg/cm3 , iar repriza HVWH�OD�IHO�FD�úL�a inului, 12%. 6 "Hemp," - Encyclopedia Encarta 2000; 7 - � ��.%'� �-); >�X �� ���� � �-); >�Y0� �� ������ �(- ; >?Z��3�� � ��� �-); – [#E�C H�D�E2R�K�C E�\�T�K G.K�D�E(B�O�K J?N.A�B�A'E2R�K�G�H�T�C A'H�I�B�I�G�B�I K C K K']&A�H�D�N.O�E�I H.AK T�D�N.O'C A�K B�I E�^�_`B�K E�C�D�E2I B�a�H�A'B�C H�A�]�E�T�C A�N&]&A�H�D�N.O'E�I E2C E�Q�C K I E2R�K�D�E?]`K E�I A�K E $.b&� � "Y�; Z7; cd; $�45 �� �� ��% � �e6�8�f�8�$.����*�;.<�W�>

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Lungimea la rupere HVWH� FXSULQV � vQWUH� ��-��� NP�� FkQHSD� GH� YDU �ILLQG�PDL�SX LQ�UH]LVWHQW �GHFkW�FHD�GH� WRDPQ , iar UH]LVWHQ D�VSHFLILF este 45 kgf/mm2, fibrele mai rezistente fiind cele provenite din zona tulpinii mai DSURSLDW �GH�U G FLQ �

)LEUHOH� VXQW�XWLOL]DWH� OD� IDEULFDUHD� XQHL�YDULHW L� GH�SURGXVH� WH[WLOH��LQFOX]kQG�SURGXVH�GH�vPEU F PLQWH�SHQWUX�X]�FRPXQ�úL�SHQWUX�PDULQ ��VIRUL��ambalaje etc.

$OWH�SODQWH��QHvQUXGLWH��FDUH�DSDU�VXE�GHQXPLUHD�FRPXQ �GH�FkQHS ��sunt: sisalul, manila etc.

Sisalul HVWH� ILEUD� QDWXUDO � SURYHQLW � GH� OD�XQ� JHQ�GH� SODQWH�QXPLWH�Agave, care�FUHVF�vQ�GHúHUWXULOH�HPLVIHUHL�YHVWLFH�

Sisalul sau „cânepa de sisal”, originar din Indiile de Vest, mai este vQWkOQLW� vQ�0H[LF� úL� vQ� DOWH� UL� WURSLFDOH� GLQ�(XUDVLD�� )LEUHOH�� RE LQXWH� GLQ�frunzele acestei plante, SUH]LQW �R� lungime GH�SkQ � OD�����P�� VXQW�DVSUH� úL�rezistente.8

)LEUHOH�VXQW�PDL�XúRDUH�GHFkW�FkQHSD��GDU�PDL�JUHOH�úL�PDL�UH]LVWHQWH�GHFkW�PDQLOD��vQV �Srin frecare�VH�GHVWUDP �

'LQ�VLVDO�VH�FRQIHF LRQHD] �VIRUL��FDEOXUL��FRúXUL��SODVH etc. Manila, FXQRVFXW �úL�VXE�GHQXPLUHD�GH cânepa de Manila sau abaca,

HVWH� QXPHOH� ILEUHORU� RE LQXWH� GLQ�FR]LOH� IUXQ]HORU�SODQWHL� FX�DFHODúL�QXPH��Planta este originar �GLQ�FilipLQH�úL�SH�DULL�PDL�UHGXVH�VH�FXOWLY �úL�vQ�$VLD�GH�Sud-HVW�úL�vQ�$PHULFD�&HQWUDO �

3UHOXFUDUHD� SODQWHORU� VH� UHDOL]HD] � vQWU-XQ� PRG� VLPLODU� LQXOXL� úL�cânepii.

&HOXOHOH�VXQW�URWXQMLWH�úL�SUH]LQW �VWULD LL��DX�XQ�OXPHQ�ODUJ��LDU�SHUH LL�sunt de JURVLPH�FRQVWDQW ��&DUDFWHULVWLF�PDQLOHL�HVWH�YkUIXO�IRDUWH�DVFX LW�DO�celulei.

Fibrele� DX� R� FXORDUH� J OEXL-FDIHQLH� úL� VXQW� OXFLRDVH, iar cele fine, deseori cu o lungime de 5 m, sunt utilizate în fabricarea firelor destinate FRQIHF LLORU� HVXWH� VDX� WULFRWDWH�� )LEUHOH� PDL� DVSUH� VXQW� IRORVLte pentru realizarea sforilor, a frânghiilor rezistente� úL�D�RGJRDQHORU��PDL�DOHV�SHQWUX�IDSWXO�F �UH]LVWHQ D�ILEUHORU�QX�VFDGH�R�GDW �FX�FUHúWHUHD�XPLGLW LL9.

FibrHOH� GH� PDQLOD� VXQW� IRDUWH� XúRDUH� úL� UH]LVWHQWH� OD� DF LXQHD� DSHL�PDULQH��vQV ,�vQ�FRQWDFW�FX�XPLGLWDWHD��HOH�VH�ULJLGL]HD] � Repriza fibrelor de manila��FD�úL�D�FHORU�GH�VLVDO, este de 12,5%.

Iuta UHSUH]LQW � QXPHOH� FRPXQ�DO� GRX � VSHFLL� GH� SODQWH� �&RUFKRUXV�ROLWHUXLV� úL�&RUFKRUXV� FDSVXODULV�� úL� DO� ILEUHORU� DFHVWRUD�� ,XWD� HVWH� R� SODQW �HUEDFHH�DQXDO �FDUH�VH�FXOWLY �DWkW�vQ�]RQHOH�VHFHWRDVH��FkW�úL�vQ�FHOH�XPHGH��

8"Agave," Encyclopedia Encarta 2000; 9 "Manila Hemp,", Encyclopedia Encarta 2000.

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

DDWRULW �FRVWXOXL�UHGXV�DO�ILEUHORU�FkW�úL�FRPSRUW ULL�EXQH�OD�ILODUH, este larg U VSkQGLW , mai aOHV� vQ� ULOH� WURSLFDOH�� ÌQ O LPHD� SODQWHL� HVWH� GH� ��P. Iuta SUH]LQW �IORUL�PLFL�JDOEHQH��VLQJXODUH�VDX�vQ�SHUHFKH�

FLEUHOH� H[WUDVH� GLQ� WXOSLQ sunt puternic lignificate úL� VH�FDUDFWHUL]HD] �SULQWU-un luciu accentuat�úL�R�mare tenacitate, dar sunt fragile úL�GLVWUXVH�FX�XúXULQ �GH�XPLGLWDWH�

La microscop,�LXWD�VH�SUH]LQW �DVHP Q WRU�FX�ILEUHOH�GH�FkQHS ��ILLQG�WRW�R�ILEU �SOXULFHOXODU �� vQV �FHOXOHOH�FLOLQGULFH�VXQW�PDL� ODUJL�úL� UHXQLWH� vQ�IDVFLFXOH� I U � VWULXUL�� &HOXOHOH� DX� XQ� DVSHFW� QHUHJXODW�� DOWHUQkQG� SRU LXQL�VXE LUL� FX� DOWHOH� vQJURúDWH�� DX� SHUH LL� WUDQVSDUHQ L,� LDU� H[WUHPLW LOH� ILEUHORU�VXQW� URWXQMLWH�� /XPHQXO� VH� vQJURDú � vQ� XQHOH� ]RQH� úL, de aceea, grosimea SHUH LORU�DSDUH�QHUHJXODW �

În DSURSLHUHD�IO F ULL��FD�úL�vQ�IODF U ��PLURVXO, culoarea�úL�aspectul FHQXúLL sunt caracteristice fibrelor vegetale.

Culoarea ILEUHORU�GH�LXW YDULD] de la alb-J OEXL��OD�JDOEHQ–brun, iar VXE� LQIOXHQ D�DHUXOXL� VH�PRGLILF � vQ�EUXQ-închis. Cu cât culoarea iutei este PDL�DUJLQWLH��FX�DWkW�HD�HVWH�GH�PDL�EXQ �FDOLWDWH��$lbirea cu hipoclorit nu d �UH]XOWDWH� VDWLVI F WRDUH� úL,� GH� DFHHD�� LXWD� QX� VH� DOEHúWH� GHFkW� vQ� FD]XUL�H[FHS LRQDOH�

Luciul HVWH�PDL�ULGLFDW�GHFkW�OD�LQ�úL�FkQHS � )LEUHOH� GH� LXW � DX� R� PDUH� DILQLWDWH� ID � GH� WRDWH� FDWHJRULLOH� GH�

FRORUDQ L��vQV cu timpul tonurile se închid la culoare. Iuta este higroVFRSLF , absorbind apa într-R� SURSRU LH� GH� ���, iar

repriza este 13,75%. Iuta QX� UH]LVW � OD� DF LXQHD� DEXUXOXL� VXE� SUHVLXQH� (în abur sub

SUHVLXQH�OD�����&�VH�GLVWUXJH�vQ�SURSRU LH�GH�����. De asemenea, iuta este maL�SX LQ�UH]LVWHQW �GHFkW�LQXO�úL�FkQHSD��LDU�OXPLQD��DHUXO�úL�XPH]HDOD�R�IDF�I UkPLFLRDV �� UHGXFkQGX-L� úL� PDL� PXOW� UH]LVWHQ D�� 'DWRULW � FRQ LQXWXOXL�ULGLFDW�GH�OLJQLQ ��ILEUHOH�DX�R�UH]LVWHQ �PLF �OD�IOH[LXQL�EUXúWH�úL, de aceea, VIRULOH�GLQ�LXW �VH�UXS�Uepede în dreptul nodului.

0DVD�VSHFLILF este de 1,5 g/cm3. Principalele domenii de utilizare a LXWHL� VXQW�� HV WXUL� GH� DPEDODMH��

VDFL��FRYRDUH��KkUWLH�GH�VODE �FDOLWDWH��SUHFXP�úL�în scopuri tehnice etc. Ramia HVWH� QXPHOH� XQHL� SODQWH� úL� Dl fibrelor naturale ale acesteia.

Sunt cele mai lucioase, durabLOH�úL�PRL�ILEUH�QDWXUDOH� mai rezistente decât EXPEDFXO�úL,�GH�DVHPHQHD��SUH]LQW �R�EXQ �UH]LVWHQ � OD�DF LXQHD�IDFWRULORU�FKLPLFL�úL�PLFURELRORJLFL�

3UREOHPHOH�FDUH�DSDU�vQ�OHJ WXU �FX�UDPLD�VXQW�GH�QDWXU �WHKQRORJLF ��GHFRUWLFDUHD�WXOSLQLORU�I FkQGX-se anevoios.

ÌQ� YHGHUHD� ILO ULL� ILQH�� UDPLD� HVWH� VXSXV � SURFHVXOXL�GH�FRWRQL]DUH, SULQ�WUDWDUH�FX�VROX LL�DOFDOLQH�VXE�SUHVLXQH��VH�GHJRPHD] ���SURFHV�SULQ�FDUH�

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Merceologie

VH� GLVWUXJ� FOHLXULOH� YHJHWDOH� FDUH� VROLGDUL]HD] � ILEUHOH� vQWUH� HOH� úL� FDUH�conduce la albirea ramiei.

0DVD�VSHFLILF a fibrelor de ramie este 1,51-1,59 g/cm3, iar repriza este de 6,52%.

Fibrele de cocos provin din fructele uQHL�YDULHW L�GH�SDOPLHU��QXPLW cocotier. Fibrele sunt smulse de pe nucile de cocos vQF � QHFRDSWH� úL� DSRL�VXQW�VXSXVH�XQHL�RSHUD LL�GH�WRSLUH�vQ�DS �GH�PDUH��WLPS�GH��-���OXQL��XUPDW �GH�VWULYLUH��VS ODUH��XVFDUH�úL�SLHSW QDUH�

$FHVWH� ILEUH� VXQW� UH]LVWHQWH� OD� DSD� úL� OD� V UXULOH�GH�PDUH�� vQ�PHGLX�XPHG� vúL�FRQVHUY � UH]LVWHQ D�� LDU�FDEOXULOH�FRQIHF LRQDWH�GLQ�ILEUH�GH�FRFRV�SOXWHVF�SH�DS �

Sunt folosite la fabricarea cablurilor, frânghiilor, a colacilor de salvare etc.

)LEUH�QDWXUDOH�GH�RULJLQH�PLQHUDO Fibrele de azbest sunt extrase din GLIHULWH�YDULHW L� GH� roci (crisotil,

crocidolit, amosit etc.), FDUH�FRQ LQ�]RQH�FX�VWUXFWXU �ILEURDV ��LQWHUFDODWH�FX�zone de steril.

)LEUHOH�GH�D]EHVW�SUH]LQW �R�VHULH�GH�SURSULHW L�FDUH�Oe-DX�I FXW�GHV�utilizate în trecut: sunt UH]LVWHQWH� OD� WUDF LXQH, nu se aprind, au bune SURSULHW L�GH�L]RODUH�WHUPLF , HOHFWULF �úL�DFXVWLF , UH]LVWHQ �VDWLVI F WRDUH�la coroziune�úL�R�PDV �VSHFLILF de 2,10-2,82 g/cm3.

Începând cu anul 1931 (în Anglia) a fost descoperit caracterul toxic DO� D]EHVWXOXL� �IDYRUL]HD] � DSDUL LD� FDQFHUXOXL� SXOPRQDU� úL� D� WXPRULORU�maligne ale peritoneului), efectele manifestându-VH�GXS �Firca 20-50 de ani de la prima aspirare a prafului de azbest10. Ca urmare, în prezent el nu mai este folosit în nici un domeniu.

4.1.2 Fibrele chimice din polimeri naturali Polimerii VXQW�VXEVWDQ H�FH�FRQ LQ�PROHFXOH�PDUL��DOF WXLWH�OD�UkQGXO�

ORU� GLQ�PXOWH� XQLW L� UHSHWLWLYH� GH�PLFL� GLPHQVLXQL�� QXPLWH�monomeri sau meri. 1XP UXO� GH� XQLW L� structurale repetitive dintr-R� PROHFXO � PDUH�UHSUH]LQW � gradul de polimerizare. Materialele cu un grad ridicat de polimerizare sunt cunoscute sub numele de SROLPHUL� vQDO L�� $FHúWLD� SRW� IL�homopolimeri: SROLPHUL�OD�FDUH�H[LVW �R�VLQJXU �XQLWDWH�VWUXFWXUDO �UHSHWLWLY �

10 Ionescu- Muscel I.; Stoian E.; Atanasie I. – @�A'B�C B�C2D�E�F"E�A�G�E�H�I H.J?K E�^5M&A�H�D�N.O�E�C E'Q�C K I E�R�K(S T�G I F�K T�C E , Editura U ��3� �� $�45 �� �� ��% � � $?6�8�9�=�$.����*�;�6�9�8�>

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

GH� DFHODúL� IHO� úL� copolimeri,� FDUH� VXQW� IRUPD L� GLQ� PDL� PXOWH� XQLW L�structurale repetitive diferite.

Cele mai�PXOWH�GLQWUH�VXEVWDQ HOH�PDWHULHL�YLL��FXP�DU�IL�SURWHLQHOe, OHPQXO��FDXFLXFXO��U úLQLOH�HWF��VXQW�SROLPHUL��OD�IHO�FD�úL�PDWHULDOHOH�VLQWHWLFH�(materialele plastice��ILEUHOH�VLQWHWLFH��DGH]LYLL��VWLFOD�úL�SRU HODQXO��FDUH, prin extensie, pot fi considerate VXEVWDQ H�SROLPHULFH11.

Primele fibre� RE LQXWH� GLQ� SROLPHUL� vQDO L� QDWXUDOL�� GH� QDWXU �KLGUDWFHOXOR]LF ,�DX�IRVW�UHDOL]DWH�OD�VIkUúLWXO�VHFROXOXL�DO�;,;-lHD�úL�DX�IRVW�cunoscute sub denumirea de rayon. Rayonul a mai fost denumit úL�“P WDVH DUWLILFLDO ´, FX� WRDWH� F ,� GLQ� SXQFW� GH� YHGHUH� DO� FRPSR]L LHL� FKLPLFH�� el GLIHU �FRPSOHW�GH�P WDVH��'H� OD�RE LQHUHD� OXL� vQ� DQXO������� UD\RQXO�D� IRVW�folosit în multe domenii ale industriei textile.

ÌQ� SURFHVXO� GH� IDEULFDUH� D� UD\RQXOXL�� FHOXOR]D� QDWXUDO � H[WUDV � GLQ�lemn sau din lintersul de bumbac s-a tratat�FX�R�VHULH�GH�VXEVWDQ H�FKLPLFH, SHQWUX�D�VH�RE LQH R�VROX LH�YkVFRDV ��$SRL��DFHaVW �VROX Le a fost H[WUXGDW , iar fibrele trecute printr-R�EDLH�GH�DFLG�VODE��DVWIHO�FD�ILODPHQWHOH�V �UHYLQ �OD�IRUPD�GH�FHOXOR] �SXU � Rayonul D�vQFHSXW�V �ILH�RE LQXW�DWkW�SULQ�SURFHGHXO�YLVFR]HL�FkW�úL�SULQ�SURFHVXO�FXSURDPRQLDFDO��

/D�VFXUW�WLPS�GXS �SURGXFereD�UD\RQXOXL�DX�IRVW�RE LQXWH�úL�primele fibre estercelulozice, dintr-un acetat de celuloz �úL printr-un proces similar rayonului. De atunci, gama fibrelor chimice s-D�vPERJ LW�vQ�PRG�FRQWLQXX��HOH�DYkQG�R�SRQGHUH�PDL�PDUH�GHFkW�FHOH�RE LQXWH�GLQ�SROLPHULL�VLQWHWLFL�

$FHVWH� ILEUH� RE LQXWH� GLQ� SROLPHUL� QDWXUDOL� DX� R� SRQGHUH� PXOW�PDL�PDUH�GHFkW�FHOH�RE LQXWH�GLQ�SROLPHULL�VLQWHWLFi.

Principalele tipuri de fibre continue RE LQXWH� GLQ� SROLPHUL� QDWXUDOL��prin procedee chimice, sunt:

� YLVFR]D�úL�FXSUR�(hidratcelulozice); � acetat (estercelulozice); � azlon (proteice); � fibre din cauciuc. Toate aceste fibre au o molicLXQH�DFFHQWXDW �úL�VXQW�SO FXWH�OD�SLS LW��

SUH]LQW �R�FXORDUH�DOE �VDX�VXQW�GLIHULW�FRORUDWH��SULQ�YRSVLUH�vQ�PDV ��OXFLXO�ILLQG� vQV � GLIHULW�� SXWHUQLF�� VHPLPDW� VDX� PDW�� vQ� IXQF LH� GH� SURFHVXO�WHKQRORJLF�GH�RE LQHUH�

3URFHVXO�GH�IDEULFD LH�D�DFHVWRU�ILEUH�FRQVW �vQ�WUHL�ID]H� ¾ prepDUDUHD�XQRU�VROX LL�YkVFRDVH�din produsul macromolecular; ¾ filarea; ¾ finisarea fibrelor.

11 "Polymer," Encyclopedia Encarta 2000;

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ÌQ�IXQF LH�GH�SROLPHUXO�GH�ED] �úL�GH�SURFHGHXO�GH�IDEULFD LH, fibrele din polimeri naturali se împart în:

9 ILEUH�SH�ED] �GH�FHOXOR] �RE LQXWH�SULQ�SURFHGHXO�YLVFR]D� 9 fibUH�SH�ED] �GH�FHOXOR] �RE LQXWH�SULQ�SURFHGHXO�FXSUR� 9 ILEUH�SH�ED] �GH�HVWHU�FHOXOR]LF��RE LQXWH�SULQ�SURFHGHXO�DFHWDW� Procedeul viscoza VH� ED]HD] � SH� WUDQVIRUPDUHD� FHOXOR]HL albite

�SXULILFDW ��GLQ� OHPQ��SDLH� VDX�VWXI� vQ�[DQWRJHQDWXO�GH�FHOXOR] ��FD�SURGus celulozic intermediar. $FHVWD�HVWH�GL]ROYDW�FX�R�VROX LH�GH�KLGUR[LG�GH�VRGLX����� RE LQkQGX-VH� R� VROX LH� portocalie, RPRJHQ � úL� IRDUWH� FODU , cu o vâscozitate de 2-3 ori mai mare decât a glicerinei��VROX LH�QXPLW �viscoza.

8UP WRDUHD� HWDS � HVWH� DFHHD� GH fabricare propriu-]LV � D� ILEUHORU� úL FRQVW �vQWU-un proces de�H[WUXGHUH��SURFHV�QXPLW�úL�ILODUH���SULQ�FDUH�VROX LD�YkVFRDV �HVWH�IRU DW �V �WUHDF �SULQ�QLúWH�PLFL�RULILFLL�DOH�XQHL�GX]H��QXPLW filator), într-R�EDLH�FH�FRQ LQH�R�VHULH�GH�VXEVWDQ H�FKLPLFe de coagulare, care SHUPLW� RE LQHUHD� XQRU� ILODPHQWH� FRQVLVWHQWH12. 6HF LXQHD� WUDQVYHUVDO � D�ILEUHORU�YDULD] �GH la forma�FUHQHODW ��FX�]RQH�GLVWLQFWH�GH�FRDM �úL�PLH]���OD�IRUPH�DSURDSH�FLUFXODUH�úL�FX�un FRQ LQXW�RPRJHQ�

8OWLPHOH� RSHUD LL� VXQW� FHOH� DOH� XQor tratamente speciale, care se UHIHU �OD��QHXWUDOL]DUH��GHVXOIXUDUH��DOELUH��VS ODUH��XVFDUH�úL�W LHUH�

Ca structXU ��ILEUHOH�FKLPLFH�QX�DX�SHUfeF LXQHD�VWUXFWXULL�ILEULODUH�D�fibrelor naturale. Fibrele au un diametru regulat, deseori cu striuri longitudiQDOH��FRQWLQXH�úL�ELQH�PDUFDWH�úL��GH�DVHPHQHD��SUH]LQW �JUDQXOD LH�FDUDFWHULVWLF ��vQ�ILEUHOH�PDWH�VDX�FRORUDWH�FX�SLJPHQ L��

9LVFR]D�RE LQXW �DUH�XQ�FRQ LQXW�GH�FHOXOR] de 87-����úL�XQ�grad de polimerizare de 300-350, ILQH HD� ILODPHQWHORU� ILLQG� FXSULQV între 4,4-1,7 dtex (Nm 2250-6000).

3URSULHW LOH�FKLPLFH�úL� IL]LFR-chimice ale fibrelor sunt uniforme pe WRDW � vQWLQGHUHD� ORU�� PDL� DOHV� QHWH]LPHD�� DILQLWDWHD� ID � GH� FRORUDQ L��UH]LVWHQ D�úL�DOXQJLUHD�

Din punct de vedere al luciului,�ILEUHOH�GH�YLVFR] �VH�IDEULF �vQ�WUHL�tipuri: lucioase, semimate� úi mate, în general viscoza având un luciu argintiu. Luciul prea puternic�� VSHFLILF� ILEUHORU� FX� R� VHF LXQH�RYDO � úL�PDL�SX LQ� GLQ DW , este un inconvenient pentru procesele tehnologice ulterioare úL, tocmai de DFHHD��ILEUHOH�VH�PDWLVHD] �

9LVFR]D� VH� YRSVHúWH� FX� DFHiDúL� FRORUDQ L� FD� úL� EXPEDFXO�� DYkQG�DFHHDúL�DILQLWDWH�ID �GH�DFHúWLD�FD�úL�EXPEDFXO�PHUFHUL]DW�

Higroscopicitatea HVWH� VXSHULRDU � FHOHL� D� EXPEDFXOXL, umflarea cauzat �GH�DS �ILLQG�UHYHUVLELO � iar repriza este de 11%.

12 "Rayon" Encyclopedia Encarta 2000;

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&RQGXFWLELOLWDWHD� WHUPLF � se apropie de cea a bumbacXOXL� úL� HVWH�VXSHULRDU � FRQGXFWLELOLW LL� OkQLL� úL� P W VLL� 3URSULHW LOH� WHUPRL]RODQWH� DOH�vPEU F PLQWHL�UHDOL]DWH�GLQ�YLVFR] �GHSLQG�GH�VWUDWXO�GH�DHU�GLQWUH�ILEUH�úL�QX�de conductibiOLWDWHD�WHUPLF �D�ILEUHORU�L]RODWH�

Comportarea viscozei în DSURSLHUHD� IO F ULL� úL� vQ� IODF U � este DVHP Q WRDUH�EXPEDFXOXL� mirosul emanat úL�DVSHFWXO�FHQXúLX fiind similare cu cele ale fibrelor naturale vegetale.

Fibrele de viscoza sunt distruse de acizii�PLQHUDOL�FRQFHQWUD L, chiar OD�R�WHPSHUDWXU �QRUPDO ��vQ�WLPS�FH�DFL]LL�GLOXD L�OH�GHJUDGHD] �FX�XúXULQ �la temperaturi ridicate sau printr-R�DF LXQH�SUHOXQJLW ��De asemenea, ele sunt GHJUDGDWH� FX� XúXULQ � úL� GH� DOFDOLL� GLOXD L, la temperaturi ridicate. Fibrele VXQW�VWDELOH�ID �GH�DF LXQHD�VROYHQ LORU�RUJDQLFL��EHQ]LQ ��EHQ]HQ���vQ�FDUH�QX�VH�XPIO �GHFkW�IRDUWH�SX LQ�

Masa�VSHFLILF este 1,51-1,52 g/cm3, iar UH]LVWHQ D�VSHFLILF este de 18-22 kgf/mm2.

3ULQ�vQF O]LUH�XQ�WLPS�PDL�vQGHOXQJDW��OD�����&��PDFUomoleculele se GHSROLPHUL]HD] , iar propriHW LOH� IL]LFR-PHFDQLFH�VH�GHJUDGHD] �� UH]LVWHQ D�OD�WUDF LXQH�PHQ LQkQGX-VH�SkQ �OD�����&�

Prin procedeul cupro (procedeul cuproamoniacal), celuloza SXULILFDW �din linters sau din pin HVWH�WUDWDW �FX�VXOIDW�Ge cupUX�úL�FX�KLGUR[LG�de sodiu, pentru a forma�FHOXOR]D�FXSURDPRQLDFDO ��$FHDVWD�HVWH�GL]ROYDW �vQ� VROX LL� GH� ���� DPRQLDF� úL� KLGUR[LG� GH� QDWULX� úL� H[WUXGDW �� OD� IHO� FD� úL�YLVFR]D�� FRDJXODUHD� I FkQGX-VH� vQV � vQ� DS � VDX� vQ� KLGUR[LG� GH� VRGLX��Ultimele tratamente sunt cele de decuprLILFDUH��VS ODUH��XVFDUH�úL�W LHUH�

Fibrele RE LQXWH�SUH]LQW �XQ�GLDPHWUX�UHJXODW��I U �VWULXUL�YL]LELOH��LDU�ILEUHOH�PDWH�VDX�FRORUDWH�FX�SLJPHQ L�SUH]LQW �R�JUDQXOD LH�FDUDFWHULVWLF �

Fiind tot fibre hidratcelulozice, caracteristicile acestor fibre sunt DVHP Q WRDUH cu cele ale viscozei�� vQV � DOXQJLUHD� OD� UXSHUH� HVWH�PDL�PLF �(10-16%) decât a acesteia. 'H�DVHPHQHD��DX�R�VWUXFWXU �PDL�XQLIRUP �úL�VH�YRSVHVF� PDL� ELQH� úL� PDL� RPRJHQ� 5HSUL]D� ILEUHORU� FXSUR� HVWH� HJDO � FX� D�YLVFR]HL�úL�HVWH�de 11%.

)LEUHOH� FXSUR� UHSUH]LQW � PDWHULD� SULP � SHQWUX� SURGXVH� ILQH� GH�tricotaje, în special pentru ciorapi.

Procedeul acetat� �GLDFHWDW�úL� WULDFHWDW�� IRORVHúWH�FHOXOR]D�GLQ�OLQWHUV�sau de pin,� FDUH� HVWH� WUDWDW � FKLPLF� FX� DFLG� DFHWLF� JODFLDO� úL� FX� DQKLGULG �aFHWLF �� vQ�YHGHUHD�RE LQHULL�FHOXOR]HL�DFHWDW��6ROX LD�GH�ILODUH�HVWH�RE LQXW �SULQ� GL]ROYDUHD� FHOXOR]HL� DFHWDW� vQ� DFHWRQ � úL� DOFRRO� HWLOLF, extruderea prin RULILFLLOH� ILOLHUHORU� I FkQGX-VH�FD� OD�YLVFR]D�� vQV � FX�HYDSRUDUHD� VROYHQ LORU�IRORVL L��8OWLPD�RSHUD LH�HVWH�FHD�GH�W LHUH�D�ILODPHQWHORU�FRQWLQXH�

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ÌQ� IXQF LH� GH� JUDGXO� GH� HVWHULILFDUH�� ILEUHOH� DFHWDW� VH� SUH]LQW � VXE�GRX � IRUPH�� diacetilcelulozice úL� triacetilcelulozice, ambele având DSUR[LPDWLY�DFHOHDúL�SURSULHW L�PHFDQLFH�

Fibrele au un diametru regulat, cu striuri longitudinale continue, dar UHODWLY� SX LQH�� )LQH HD� ILEUHORU� DFHWDW� HVWH� FXSULQV � vQWUH� ���-1,3 dtex (Nm 4500-7500).

Fibrele acetat sunt SO FXWH�OD�SLS LW� foarte moi, cu luciu DVHP Q WRU�P W VLL, dar se mototolesc FX�XúXULQ .

Nu prezint � DILQLWDWH� ID � GH� FRORUDQ LL� RELúQXL L� úL� GH� DFHHD� VXQW�YRSVLWH�FX�FRORUDQ L specifici, de dispersie, cu care se�SRW�RE LQH�úL�GLIHULWH�efecte de culoare.

Sunt fibre termoplastice�úL�OD�����&�vQFHS�V �VH�GHIRUPH]H��7RFPDL�GH�DFHHD��F OFDUHD�VH�IDFH�QXPDL�SULQ�LQWHPHGLXO�XQRU� HV WXUL�XPHGH�

Fibrele acetat sunt UHOH�FRQGXF WRDUH�GH�F OGXU ��SX LQ�KLJURVFRSLFH�úL�XúRU� LQIODPDELOH��)LLQG� SX LQ� KLJURVFRSLFH�� ILEUHOH� DFHWDW� DX SURSULHW L�electroizolante bune. Repriza fibrelor acetat este de 6%.

În apropiere dH� IODF U � vQFHS� V � VH� WRSHDVF �� vQ� IODF U ard topindu-se, iar OD�LHúLUHD�GLQ�IODF U �FRQWLQX �V �DUG ��Wopindu-se cu formare GH�J P OLL�QHJUH, tari, mirosul emanat ILLQG�DFLG��vQ HS WRU�

Dintre fibrele celulozice, fibrele acetat sunt cele mai sensibile la DF LXQHD�ED]HORU��VROX LLOH�VODE�DOFDOLQH�GH�V SXQ�úL�VRG �GHVFRPSXQkQGu-le la fierbere. Au R� VWDELOLWDWH� PDL� PDUH� ID � GH� DFL]L� decât fibrele KLGUDWFHOXOR]LFH�� vQV � DFL]LL� FRQFHQWUD L� le� GHVFRPSXQ�� ÌQ� VROYHQ L� RUJDQLFL��DFHWRQ ��HVWHUL��ILEUHOH�VH�XPIO �PXOW�úL�VH�GL]ROY �

)LEUD� DFHWDW� RELúQXLW � DUH� R� UH]LVWHQ � VSHFLILF de 12-16 kgf/mm2, LDU� FHD� VXSUDHWLUDW � R� UH]LVWHQ � H[FHS LRQDO �� GH� ���� NJI�PP2�� GHS úLQG�UH]LVWHQ D� WXWXURU�ILEUHORU� WH[WLOH��FKLDU� úL�SH�FHD�D�R HOXOXL.�0DVD�VSHFLILF este de 30 g/cm3.

$FHVWH� ILEUH� VXQW� IRORVLWH� OD� IDEULFDUHD� HV WXULORU� úi a tricotajelor, fiind utilizate�WRWRGDW �úL�OD�UHDOL]DUHD�GLIHULWHORU�DPHVWHFXUL�GH�ILEUH��SHQWUX�RE LQHUHD�HIHFWHORU�GH�FXORDUH�úL�UHGXFHUea�úLIRQDELOLW LL�

Celofibra viscoza HVWH�DOF WXLW din ILEUH�VFXUWH�RE LQXWH�GLQ�FHOXOR] �SULQ�SURFHGHH�FKLPLFH��ÌQ�IXQF LH�GH�SURFHGHXO�GH�RE LQHUH��FHORILEUD�SRDWH�fi: celofibra viscoza, celofibra cupro úL celofibra acetat.

Având din punct de vedere chimic� DFHHDúL� FRPSR]L LH� FX� FHD� D�fibrelor continue, proprLHW LOH� FHORILEUHL� VXQW� DSURDSH� LGHQWLce cu cele ale acestor fibre.

&HORILEUD� VH� SUHOXFUHD] � DSURDSH� vQWRWGHDXQD� vQ� DPHVWHF� FX� DOWH�fibre, ca��EXPEDF�� OkQ ��SROLPHUL�VLQWHWLFL�HWF��úL,�GH�DFHHD��HD�VH�IDEULF �vQ�VRUWLPHQWH�GLIHUHQ LDWH�GLQ�SXQFW�GH�YHGHUH al lungimii, gradului de ondulare

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

HWF���SHQWUX�D�IL�FRPSDWLELO �FX�ILEUHOH�FX�FDUH�XUPHD] �D�VH�DPHVWHFD�úL�FX�metoda de filare.

3ULQFLSDOHOH� WLSXUL� GH� ILEUH� GH� FHOXOR] �� GLQ� SXQFW� GH� YHGHUH� DO�lungimii lor, sunt:

¾ celofibra B, de tip bumbac: 20-40 mm; ¾ celRILEUD�/��GH�WLS�OkQ �FDUGDW ��60-80 mm; ¾ celofLEUD�/��GH�WLS�OkQ �SLHSW QDW ��80-150 mm; ¾ celofibra I, de tip in: 125-300 mm. Celofibra tip bumbDF� SUH]LQW � XQ� DVSHFW� OXFLRV� un grad de alb de

minim 80%, densitatea de lungime în denieri este de 1,5 iar repriza este de 13%.

'H� DVHPHQHD�� VH� PDL� IDEULF � FHORILEU � GH� WLS� LXW �� SHQWUX� YLJRQLH��FHORILEU �JURDV �SHQWUX�FRYRDUH�HWF�

&HORILEUD� SROLQR]LF � D� vQFHSXW� V � ILH� IDEULFDW � vQ� ����� úL� HVWH� o celofiEU �YLVFR]D�VXSHULRDU �FDOLWDWLY�FHOHL�RELúQXLWH��I U �D�VH�ULGLFD�vQV �OD�QLYHOXO�GH�UH]LVWHQ �Dl bumbacului.

6HF LXQHD� DFHVWRU� ILEUH� HVWH� FLUFXODU � úL� DX� XQ� JUDG� GH� VWUXFWXUDUH�ILEULODU � PDL� ULGLFDW�� 'H� DVHPHQHD�� vQ� VWDUH� XPHG �� SUH]LQW � XQ� JUDG� GH�UH]LVWHQ �VSRULW��VXQW�PDL�UH]LVWHQWH�OD�DF LXQHD�DOFDOLLORU��DX�R�capacitate de JRQIODUH�PDL�UHGXV �úL�R�PDUH�DILQLWDWH�ID �GH�FRORUDQ L�

'DWRULW �SURSULHW LORU�VDOH�VXSHULRDUH��FHOXOR]D�SROLQR]LF �VXEVWLWXLH�EXPEDFXO��XQ�DPHVWHF�GH�����FHORILEU �FX�����EXPEDF�SRVHGkQG�DSURDSH�vQ�WRWDOLWDWH�vQVXúLULOH�FRUHVSXQ] WRDUH�Eumbacului.

'H�DVHPHQHD��VH�IRORVHúWH�vQ amestecuri cu fibre sintetice, respectiv cu cele poliesterice, ILEUHOH�RE LQXWH�FDUDFWHUL]kQGX-se�SULQ�UH]LVWHQ �P ULW �la freFDUH��QHúLIRQDELOLWDWH��S VWUDUHD�GXQJLL�úL�vQWUH LQHUH�XúRDU �

Fibrele proteice (protidice) mai sunt cunoscute sub numele de fibre azlon.

)LEUHOH� D]ORQ� SRW� IL� IDEULFDWH� SH� ED] � GH�� FD]HLQ � GLQ� ODSWH� �fibre lanital), ]HLQ �GLQ�SRUXPE� �fibre Vicara), JOLFLQ �GLQ�DUDKLGH� �fibre Ardil), GLQ� VRLD�� GLQ� V PkQ � GH� EXPEDF etc.. Fiind fibre proteice, SUH]LQW �FDUDFWHULVWLFL�DVHP Q WRDUH�ILEUHORU�GH�OkQ �

3URGXF LD�ORU�D�vQFHSXW�vQ������GDU�QX�V-D�GH]YROWDW�úL�QX�H[LVW �úDQVH�de dezvoltare nici în viitor,� GDWRULW � IDSWXOXL� F � ED]D� GH� PDWHULL� SULPH� R�UHSUH]LQW �GRPHQLXO�DOLPHQWDU��FDUH�úL�DúD�HVWH�GHILFLWDU�OD�QLYHO�PRQGLDO�úL�SHQWUX�F �SRVHG �R�VODE �UH]LVWHQ �DWkW�vQ�VWDUH�XVFDW ��FkW�úL�XPHG �

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Merceologie

4.1.3 Fibrele chimice din polimeri sintetici (fibrele sintetice)

Fibrele sintetice sunt ILEUH� RE LQXWH� GLQ� SROLPHUL� VLQtetici prin procedee chimice. Cele mai�PXOWH�GLQWUH�HOH�VXQW�WHUPRSODVWLFH�úL�GH�DFHHD�PROLFLXQHD�úL�VXSOH HD�VXQW�RE LQXWH�SULQ�WUDWDPHQWH�WHUPLFH�

3ULPD�ILEU �VLQWHWLF �D�IRVW�R�SROLDPLG ��GHQXPLW �nylon, RE LQXW �vQ�anul �����GH�F WUH�FKLPLúWLL�FRQGXúL�GH�Wallace Hume Carothers, din cadrul companiei americane “Du Pont de Nemours”. $FHDVWD� HUD� R� ILEU � IRDUWH�UH]LVWHQW ��IRDUWH�HODVWLF �úL�H[WUHP�GH�VXSO �

ÌQ� DFHDVW � SHULRDG �� VH� SDUH� F � H[LVWD� R� DGHY UDW � rivalitate între FKLPLúWLL�DPHULFDQL�úL�FHL�MDSRQH]L�vQ�RE LQHUHD�ILEUHORU�VLQWHWLFH��IDpt pentru FDUH��GXS �XQHOH�RSLQLL��vQ�GHQXPLUHD�GH�Q\ORQ�DFRUGDW �ILEUHORU�SROLDPLGLFH�s-DU�DVFXQGH�R�LURQLH�D�FKLPLúWLORU�DPHULFDQL�OD�DGUHVD�FHORU�MDSRQH]L��Now you lose old Nipponese-�³DFXP�WX�SLHU]L�E WUkQ�MDSRQH]´��

De atunci, DX� IRVW� RE LQXWH multe alte fibre sintetice, printre care: DFULOXO��SROLDFULORQLWULO���DUDPLGXO��SROLDPLG �DURPDW ���ROHILQD��SROLHWLOHQ �úi SROLSURSLOHQ ��� SROLHVWHULL� úi spandexul (poliuretanul), toate caracterizate prin: WXúHX� SO FXW�� DVHP Q WRU� P W VLL� úL� OkQLL, FXORDUH� DOE sau diferite culori,�UHDOL]DWH�SULQ�YRSVLUHD�vQ�PDV � luciu variabil, în func LH�GH�SURFHVXO�WHKQRORJLF� úL SURSULHW L� IL]LFR-FKLPLFH�� WHKQRORJLFH� úL� PLFURELRORJLFH�superioare.

Fibrele� VLQWHWLFH� VH� FRPHUFLDOL]HD] � VXE� XQ� QXP U� IRDUWH� PDUH� GH�GHQXPLUL��vQV �WRDWH�DX�OD�ED] �Firca 30 de polimeri sintetici.

Într-un proces tipic dH�RE LQHUH�D� DFHVWRU� ILEUH��XQ�polimer sintetic, aflaW�VXE�IRUP �GH�VROX LH��topitXU �VDX�SDVW �XúRU�PXODELO , este extrus prin orificiile unui filator�úL�WUHFXW�vQWU-un mediu care conduce la solidificarea lui.

ÌQ� JHQHUDO�� VHF LXQHD� WUDQVYHUVDO � URWXQMLW � FRQGXFH� OD� R� VHULH� GH�GLILFXOW L�vQ�SURFHVXO�GH�SUHOXFUDUH��DOXQHFDUHD�VWUDWXULORU��QRGXUL�UH]LVWHQWH��IDYRUL]DUHD�SLOOLQJXOXL�HWF���úL, tocmai de aceea, se folosesc orificii de filare în forme geometrice diferite (stea cu cinci –opt FRO XUL�� VHPLFHUF� FX� UD]H��trapez deschis etc.),�vQ�IXQF LH�GH�SROLPHUXO�H[WUXV�

De asemenea, în vederea reducerii masei specifice a fibrelor, H[WUXGHUHD� VH� SRDWH� UHDOL]D� SULQ� RULILFLL� SUHY ]XWH� FX�PLH]XUi, care permit RE LQHUHD�XQRU�FDQDOH�FX�DHU�vQ�PDVD�ILEUHORU�

3HQWUX�FRQIHULUHD�XQXL�WXúHX�SO FXW��HOH�SUH]HQWkQG�XQ�WXúHX�DSURSLDW�de cel al sticlei), fibrele sintetice sunt volumizate prin diferite metode.

Fibrele din polimeri sintetici VXQW� PDL� XúRDUH decât celelalte fibre textile, au R�FDSDFLWDWH�EXQ �GH� L]RODUH� WHUPLF , R�KLJURVFRSLFLWDWH�UHGXV (fapt pentru care VXQW�FXU DWH�úL�XVFDWH�FX�PDUH�XúXULQ ��úL�sunt rezistente OD�DF LXQHD�PLFRRUJDQVLPHORU.

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3URSULHW LOH� ILEUHORU� GHSLQG� GH� SROLPHUXO� GH� ED] , de procesul de ILODUH�úL�GH�WUDWDPHQWele ulterioare aplicate, care includ: etirarea (întindere în VWDUH� SODVWLF � SHQWrX� RE LQHUHD� XQRU� UH]LVWHQ H� VXSHULRDUH), volumizarea, VS ODUHa, vopsirea, matisarea, uscarea�� W LHUHD� ILODPHQWHORU�HWF�� prin care o serie� GH� SURSULHW L�� FXP� DU� IL�� PDVD�� UH]LVWHQ D� FKLPLF � úL� WHUPLF ��elasticitatea��VXSOH Ha, afinitatea�ID �GH�FRORUDQ L�HWF��SRW�IL�RSWLPL]DWH�

ÎQ�IXQF LH�GH�PRQRPHUXO�XWLOL]DW�úL�GH�SURFHGHXO�GH�RE LQHUH, fibrele sintetice VH�FODVLILF �vQ�ILEUH�RE LQXWH�

� prin policondensare: poliamidice �GLQ� DFLG� VHEDLF� úL� KH[D-PHWLOHQGLDPLQ �� GLQ� FDSURODFWDP � úL� GLQ� DPLQRDFLG undecanoic); poliesterice (ester dimetilic al acidului teUHIWDOLF��úL�policarbonice;

� prin polimerizare: SROLHWLOHQLFH��SROLSURSLOHQLFH�úL�GHULYDWH�vinilice �SROLHWLOHQ �� SROLSURSLOHQ �� SROLYLQLOFORULGLFH�� SROLDOFRROYLQLOLFH��SROLDFULOQLWULOLFH�� úL� copolimeri vinilici� �GLQ� FORUXU � GH� YLQLO� FX�FORUXU �GH�YLQLOLGHQ��GLQ�FORUXU �GH�YLQLO�FX�QLWULO�DFULOLF��

� GLQ�VWLFOH��]JXUH�úL�URFL�HUXSWLYH��fibre de stLFO ��GH��]JXU ��GH�URFL�eruptive etc.13 )LHFDUH�GLQWUH�DFHVWH�ILEUH�DUH�DQXPLWH�SDUWLFXODULW L�FDUH�GHWHUPLQ �

domeniul ei utilizare: ¾ fibrele poliamidice��FDUH�DX�FD�PDWHULH�SULP � L HLXO-fenolul) sunt

folosite pentru produse solicitate puternic la frecare�� LQkQGX-VH�vQV �FRQW�F �IDYRUL]HD] �DSaUL LD�QRSHXULORU�

¾ fibrele poliesterice (FDUH� DX� FD�PDWHULH� SULP � JD]HOH� GH� FUDcare, metanul, etilena etc.��VXQW�UH]LVWHQWH�OD�DF LXQHD�DFL]LLORU�úL�DOFDOLLORU�GLOXDWH��au o mare capacitate de a nu se deforma, conserY �GXQJLOH� OD�SDQWDORQL�úL�SOLXULOH� úL� VXQW� IRORVLWH� FD� vQORFXLWRUL� DL� VWRIHORU� WLS� OkQ � SLHSW QDW � úL� la fabricarea perdelelor;

¾ fibrele poliacrilice� �FDUH� DX� FD� PDWHULH� SULP � JD]XO� PHWDQ�� VH�FRPSRUW � ELQH� OD� úLIRQDUH�� SXWUH]LUH�� OD� DF LXQHD� LQWHPSHULLORU� úL,� GDWRULW �HODVWLFLW LL�PDUL�GH�YROXP,�VXQW�IRORVLWH�OD�IDEULFDUHD�WULFRWDMHORU��S WXULORU��VWRIHORU�SHQWUX�SDOWRDQH�úL�WLS�OkQ �FDUGDW �

¾ fibrele policlorvinilice (au ca matHULL�SULPH�JD]HOH�QDWXUDOH�úL�GH�VRQG � úL� DFHWLOHQD�� VXQW� QHDSULQ]LELOH, imputrescibile,� DX� SURSULHW L�antireumatismale��UH]LVW �ELQH�OD�DF LXQHD�DSHL�GH�PDUH��D�DFL]LORU�úL�ED]HORU��IDSW� SHQWUX� FDUH�� SH� OkQJ � IDEULFDUHD� GLYHUVHORU� VRUWLPHQWH� FXUHQWH, sunt IRORVLWH�úL�vQ� HV WXUL�FX�DSOLFD LL�PHGLFDOH�

13 Ionescu- Muscel I.; Cucu V.D. – Merceologia produselor de export-import g(hji k�i l m n�o p�q"r k�s�p�l m o i n.i"t"u)v�w�o n.gx n�k�m o p�q�s�n2s�v�y�p�z�n�k�m w�o n2u�i�{�p�|�q i y.w i i�m n�}�k�i y�n.g.~5p�y�p�o n�u m i g7��������g.{�w������������

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¾ fibrele polialcoolvinilice (au FD� PDWHULH� SULP � L HLXO�� úL� VXQW�GHVWLQDWH� HV WXULORU� GH� WLS� EXPEDF� �vPSUHXQ � FX� YLVFR]D� úL� FXSUR�� ILLQG�IRORVLWH�OD�IDEULFDUHD�OHQMHULHL��KDLQHORU�GH�YDU �HWF�14

Fibrele poliamidice (nylon, rilsan, relon, capron, perlon etc.) au o culoare alb-crem dar poW�IL�YRSVLWH�FX�XúXULQ ��sunt lucioase��GDU�VH�SRW�úL�matisa. Sunt ILEUH�XúRDUH, având PDVD�VSHFLILF �de 1,14 g/cm3.

+LJURVFRSLFLWDWHD�HVWH�UHGXV ��vQ�FRQGL LL�GH�WHPSHUDWXU �úL�XPLGLWDWe UHODWLY �QRUPDOH��DEVRUELQG�DSD�vQ�SURSRU LH�GH����-4%.

În apropierH� GH� IODF U �� vQFHS� V � VH� FRQWUDFWH� úL� V � VH� WRSHDVF �� în IODF U � ard încet, cu topire iar OD� VFRDWHUHD� GLQ� IODF U se sting destul de repede, emanând un fum alb� úL� XQ� PLURV� GLIHULW� vQ� IXQF LH� GH� QDWXUD�SROLPHUXOXL�GH�ED] ��PLURV�GH� HOLQ �VDX�GH�OXPkQDUH� Produsul arderii are DVSHFWXO�XQHL�J P OLL�WDUL��PDL�PXOW�VDX�PDL�SX LQ�QHaJU . /D�R�WHPSHUDWXU �de peste 230°C se distrug.

/D� WHPSHUDWXU � QRUPDO �� Vunt IRDUWH� VWDELOH� OD� DF LXQHD�microorganismelor�úL�D�PDMRULW LL�DJHQ LORU�FKLPLFL��vQV �nu sunt stabile la DFL]LL�PLQHUDOL�FRQFHQWUD L úL�VH�GL]ROY �vQ�IHQRO�úL�DFLG�IRUPLF�

5H]LVWHQ D� VSHFLILF este de 57-83 kgf/mm2, fiind cea mai mare GLQWUH� UH]LVWHQ HOH� WXWXURU� ILEUHORU� WH[WLOH,� vQV � SUH]LQW � IHQRPHQXO� GH�„vPE WUkQLUH´ (UH]LVWHQ HOH� PHFDQLFH� VFDG� VXE� DF LXQHD� vQGHOXQJDW � D�OXPLQLL�úL�D�DJHQ LORU�DWPRVIHULFL). De asemenea, UH]LVW �ELQH�OD�IUHFDUH, sunt foarte elastice, au o lungime de rupere de 45-52 km iar fibrele etirate suplimentar, de 54-63 km.

Dezavantajele acestor fibre�VXQW�XUP WRDUHOH��QHWH]LPH�SUHD�PDUH�úL�OLSV �GH�VWUXFWXU ��WHQGLQ �GH�D�IRUPD�QRSHXUL��KLJURVFRSLFLWDWH�UHGXV ��SULQ�vQF O]LUH� VH� vQJ OEHQHVF�� VH� vQFDUF � FX� VDUFLQL� HOHFWURVWDWLFH� �FRQGXF� OD�DSDUL LD�IHQRPHQXOXL�GH�SLOOLQJ���DX� UH]LVWHQ �PLF � OD� OXPLQ �úL� OD�DFL]L�úL�SUH]LQW �XQ�WXúHu rece.

)LEUHOH�SROLDPLGLFH�VXQW�IRORVLWH�OD�IDEULFDUHD� HV WXULORU�WLS�P WDVH��D� HV WXULORU� LPSHUPHDELOH�� a ciorapilor, a� FRYRDUHORU�� SUHFXP� úL� SHQWUX�SURGXVH�GH�X]�VSRUWLY��PHGLFLQDO�úL�LQGXVWULDO��SDUDúXWH��DUWLFROH�GH�SHVFXLW��corzi la rachetele de teQLV��ILUH�SHQWUX�VXWXU �PHGLFDO ��LQVHU LL�HWF��.

Fibrele poliamidice neaprinzibile sunt fibrele poliamidice în care PDFURPROHFXOHOH�QX�PDL�VXQW�OLQLDUH�úL�FRQ LQ�LQHOH�DURPDWLFH��$FHVWH�ILEUH�VXQW�IRDUWH�UH]LVWHQWH�OD�DF LXQHD�WHPSHUDWXULORU�ULGLFDWH��GXS �H[SXQHUH�WLPS�de GRX �OXQL�OD�����&�S VWUkQGX-úL�Firca 60-����GLQ�UH]LVWHQ HOH�LQL LDOH�OD�IUHFDUH�úL�VIkúLHUH,�LDU�GXS �H[SXQHUH�WLPS�GH�patru�OXQL�OD�����&�UH]LVWHQ D�OD�WUDF LXQH�U PkQH�DSURape�QHVFKLPEDW �

14 Ionescu- Muscel I.; Stoian E.; Atanasie I. – @�A'B�C B�C2D�E�F"E�A�G�E�H�I H.J?K E�L`M&A�H�D�N.O�E�C E'Q�C K I E�R�K(S T�G I F�K T�C E , Editura � n�}�k�i y g�~5p�y�p�o n�u m i g?��������g.{�w���������� -210;

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3ULQ� vQF O]LUH� OD�����&�QX�VH� WRSHVF��QX�SURSDJ �IODF UD��QX�GHJDM �PLURV�QHSO FXW�úL�QLFL�JD]H�WR[LFH�

HV WXULOH�DX�XQ� WXúHX�SO FXW�úL�XQ�DVSHFW�DVHP Q WRU� HV WXULORU�GH�uz comun, fiind folosite la fabricarea tapiseriilor din aeronave, nave maritime, mijloace de transport auto etc.

Fibrele poliesterice GH LQ�primul loc vQ�SURGXF LD� ILEUHORU� VLQWHWLFH��Ele apar sub diverse denumiri: Terital, Terom, Dacron, Lavsan, Tesil, Terylene etc., sortimentul fiind în prezent într-R�FRQWLQX �diversificare, prin aplicarea unor� QRL� WUDWDPHQWH� GH� QHúLIRQDELOL]DUH�� DOELUH� RSWLF �� F OFDUH�SHUPDQHQW , antipilling, vQWUH LQHUH�XúRDU �HWF�

6H�SURGXF�vQ�GRX �VRUWLPHQWH�GH�OXQJLPH��fibre continue�úL�VFXUWH, tip EXPEDF�� WLS� OkQ �� WLS� LQ� HWF��� ale� F URU� OXQJLPL� VXQW� HJDOH� FX� OXQJLPHD�ILEUHORU� FX� FDUH� VH� UHDOL]HD] � DPHVWHFXl, SRQGHUHD� SULQFLSDO � D� SURGXF LHL�GH LQkQG-o vQV �fibrele scurte.

)LEUHOH� SROLHVWHULFH� SUH]LQW � XQ� JUDG� vQDLQWDW� GH� FULVWDOLQLWDWH� úL� GH�RULHQWDUH� PROHFXODU �� La microscop, fibrele apar cilindrice,� vQ� VHF Lune WUDQVYHUVDO �VXQW�URWXQGH�LDU la unele tipurL�VH�REVHUY �PLFL�SXQFWH�

)LEUHOH�SROLHVWHULFH�SUH]LQW �un WXúHX�DSURSLDW�de cel al lânii, SO cut úL, fiind�F OGXURase,�DVLJXU �XQ�FRQfort bun la purtare.

Au R� DILQLWDWH� VF ]XW � ID � GH� FRORUDQ L, fapt pentru care ele se vopsesc la temperaturi ridicate (peVWH�����&�úL�VXE�SUHVLXQH).

Masa� VSHFLILF � a fibrelor de poliester este de 1,38 g/cm3, iar FRQWUDF LD�HVWH�UHGXV .

+LJURVFRSLFLWDWHD�HVWH� IRDUWH� UHGXV , între 0,2-0,4%� úL�de aceea se XVXF �FX�XúXULQ . Repriza este de 0,5%.

ÌQ�DSURSLHUH�GH�IODF U � fibrelH�SROLHVWHULFH�VH�WRSHVF�úL�VH�FRQWUDFW ��vQ�IODF U �ard încet, cu topire, iar OD�VFRDWHUHD�GLQ�IODF U se sting. Produsul arderii DUH�DVSHFWXO�XQHL�J P OLL� WDUL��PDURQLL�VDX�QHJUH��/D�R� WHPSHUDWXU �de peste 260°C se distrug. Fibrele poliesterice nu propag � IODF UD�� GDU� vQ�HV WXU �GHDV �VH�DSULQG�PDL�XúRU� Dintre fibrele sintetice, fibrele de poliester SUH]LQW �FHD�PDL�PDUH�VWDELOLWDWH�WHUPLF (EXQ �FDSDFLWDWH�GH�D�S VWUD�IRUPD�IL[DW �SULQ�SURFHGHH�WHUPLFH).

)LEUHOH� SROLHVWHULFH� DX� UH]LVWHQ � IRDUWH� EXQ � OD� WUDF LXQH� úL la frecare, UH]LVWHQ D�OD�UXSHUH este de 56-68 kgf/mm2�SHQWUX�ILEUHOH�QRUPDOH�úL�pentru cele rezistente: 74-78 kgf/mm2.

3UH]LQW �PDUH� VWDELOLWDWH� ID � GH� UHDFWLYLL� FKLPLFL��PDL� DOHV� ID � GH�DFL]L�� R[LGDQ L� VROYHQ L� RUJDQLFL�� VXEVWDQ H� UHGXF WRDUH� dar sunt mult mai VHQVLELOH� OD� DF LXQHD� ED]HORU. LD� DF LXQHD� OXPLQLL� VRODUH SUH]LQW � R UH]LVWHQ � VDWLVI F WRDUH� vQV UDGLD LLOH� gama o distrug. Toate aceste

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SURSULHW L� DX� GHWHUPLQDW� IRORVLUHD� ILEUHORU� SROLHVWHULFH� vQ� GRPHniul vPEU F PLQWHL�GH�SURWHF LH�

Aburul�� OD�R�WHPSHUDWXU �GH����-155°C, UHGXFH�PDVD�PROHFXODU �úL�UH]LVWHQ D� acestor fibre�� LDU� OD� R� WHPSHUDWXU � GH� ����&� YDSRULL� GH� DS �VFLQGHD] �FRPSOHW�ILEUHOH�SROLHVWHULFH�

De asemenea, fibrele poliesterice sunt foartH� VWDELOH� OD� DF LXQHD�microorganismelor.

3ULQFLSDOHOH� GHILFLHQ H� DOH� ILEUHORU� SROLHVWHULFH� VXQW�� WHQGLQ D� GH�DSDUL LH�D�HIHFWXOXL�GH�SLOOLQJ��DILQLWDWHD�UHGXV �ID �GH�FRORUDQ L��GLILFXOWDWH�GH�IDEULFDUH�D�SURGXVHORU�VF PRúDWH�FD�XUPDUH�D�SLOOLQJXOXL, higroscopicitate IRDUWH�UHGXV �úL�VHQVLELOLWDWH�OD�DOFDOLL�

Fibrele poliesterice se utiOL]HD] �vQ�VWDUH�SXU pentru firele de ciorapi, vQV � SHQWUX� firele destinate HV WXULlor� VH� ILOHD] � vn amestec cu alte fibre: 67% fibre SROLHVWHULFH�úL�����EXPEDF�– pentru c P úL��EOX]H�úL�URFKLL������fibre polieVWHULFH� úL� ����FHORILEU �–� SHQWUX� vPEU F PLQWH� XúRDU ��GH�YDU ��55% fibre SROLHVWHULFH�úL�����OkQ –�SHQWUX�VWRIH�VXE LUL�úL�VHPLJURDVH�HWF��

'H�DVHPHQHD��VXQW�IRORVLWH� OD�IDEULFDUHD�FRYRDUHORU�úL�a mochetelor (mai alHV� GDWRULW � SURSULHW LL� XQRU� QRL� ILEUH� SROLHVWHULFH� GH� a prezenta o DGHUHQ � VF ]XW � fa � GH� LPSXULW L), a EO QXULORU�� GDU� úL� SHQWUX� R� VHULH� GH�VFRSXUL�LQGXVWULDOH��SUHODWH��L]ROD LL�HOHFWURQLFH��FRUGXUL�SHQWUX�DQYHORSH�HWF�

Fibrele polietilenice se remaUF � SULQWU-o PDUH� VWDELOLWDWH� ID � GH�DJHQ LL� FKLPLFL:�PHQ LQXWH� WLPS� GH� R� OXQ la temperatura camerei, în acid sulfuric concentrat, acid azotic concentrat, acid acetic, fosforic etc., UH]LVWHQ D�DFHVWRU�ILEUH�QX�HVWH�GHORF�DIHFWDW ��

Au o mare UH]LVWHQ � ID � GH� DWDFXO� PLFURRUJDQVLPHORU� úL, de asemenea, o mare flexibilitate, FDUH�VH�S VWUHD] �SkQ �OD�-70°C.

0DVD�VSHFLILF este de 0,9 g/cm3. 6XQW� IRORVLWH� vQ� VSHFLDO� SHQWUX� IDEULFDUHD� F SWXúHOLORU, a produselor

filtrante, a KDLQHORU�GH�SURWHF LH etc., iar unele fibre polietilenice sunt folosite OD�UHDOL]DUHD�YHVWHORU�DQWLJORQ ��D�XúLORU�GH�DXWRPRELOH�EOLQGDWH�úL�D�VFDXQHORU�SHQWUX�HFKLSDMHOH�DHURQDYHORU�úL�HOLFRSWHUHORU�

Fibrele polipropilenice sunt fibrele cu FHD� PDL� vQDLQWDW � VWUXFWXU �FULVWDOLQ � úL� cele maL� XúRDUH� GLQWUH toate fibrele textile, având masa VSHFLILF FXSULQV � vQWUH� ����-0,92 g/cm3�� 'H� DVHPHQHD�� SRVHG � R� mare UH]LVWHQ �OD�WUDF LXQH��FDUH�SULQ�HWLUDUH�VH�P UHúWH�GH�úDSWH ori.

Alte caracteristici ale acestor fibre sunt: rH]LVWHQ �PDUH�OD�IUHFDUH�úL ID �GH�DFL]L��ED]H�úL�R[LGDQ L��KLJURVFRSLFLWDWH�DSURDSH�]HUR�úL�SURSULHW L�dielectrice superioare.

'H� DVHPHQHD�� SUH]LQW � R� EXQ � UH]LVWHQ � OD� DF LXQHD� PLFUR-RUJDQLVPHORU� úL� LQVHFWHORU, sunt bune izolatoare termic, având FRQGXFWLELOLWDWHD� WHUPLF �PDL� UHGXV �GHFkW�D� OkQLL� úL�GH� WUHL�RUL�PDL� UHGXV �

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

decât a bumbacului, se aprind cu greu� úL� numai în contact cu focul15. 5H]LVWHQ D� OD� OXPLQ � GLIX] HVWH� EXQ ,� vQV � DF LXQHD� SUHOXQJLW a razelor VRODUH�GLUHFWH�FRQGXFH�OD�R�UHGXFHUH�SURJUHVLY �D�FDUDFWHULVWLFLlor mecanice.

&X� WRDWH� F � VXQW� XWLOL]DWH� vQ� LQGXVWULD� HOHFWURWHKQLF � úL� FKLPLF , pentru uz igienico-sanitar� úL� SHQWUX� EXQXULOH� GH� FRQVXP�� aceste fibre sunt IRORVLWH� FX�SUHGLOHF LH� OD� IDEULFDUHD�FRYRDUHORU��a geotextilelor (covoare de JU GLQL ���D�WDSHWHORr, ambalajelor, IUkQJKLLORU�úL�D�PDWHULDOHORU�QH HVXWH�

Noile compozite polimerice, cum ar fi Gore-tex, sunt folosite la IDEULFDUHD� VFXUWHORU� GH� YkQW� úL� D� KDQRUDFHORU� �VXQW� XúRDUH� úL� IRDUWH�F OGXURDVH��� vQ� LQGXVWULD� vQF O PLQWHL� �OD� IDEULFDUHD� IH HORU� GH� cizme) iar fibrele Kevlar, la fabricarea vestelor anti-JORQ �

Fibrele policlorvinilice au fost realizate pentUX�SULPD�GDW �vQ����� în Germania, fiind cunoscute sub numele de „fibre Pe Ce”.

(OH� SUH]LQW � SURSULHW LOH� VSHFLILFH� ILEUHORU� VLQWHWLFH�� UHVSHFWLY� FXORDUH�DOE ��OXFLX�P W VRV�UHJODELO, KLJURVFRSLFLWDWH�QXO ��UH]LVWHQ �PDUH�ID � GH� PDMRULWDWHD� DJHQ LORU� FKLPLFL�� FDOLW L� EXQH� PHFDQR-elastice, FRPSRUWDUH� VDWLVI F WRDUH� OD� DOELUH�� YRSVLUH� úL� finisare úL termostabilitate OLPLWDW �

3H� OkQJ � DFHVWHD�� FDracteristice fibrelor policlorvinilice sunt: neaprinzibilitatea�� vQF UFDUHD� WULERHOHFWULF (fapt ce conduce la efecte de DPHOLRUDUH� úL� FRPEDWHUH� D� GXUHULORU� UHXPDWLVPDOH�� úL contractibilitatea GLULMDW � (care SHUPLWH� RE LQHUHD� GH� SURGXVH� WH[WLOH� FX� HIHFWH� vn relief sau FUHúWHUHD� GHVLPLL� HV WXULORU� vQ� FDUH� VH� DIO � vQ� DPHVWHF� FX� ILEUH�necontractabile)16.

ÌQ� DSURSLHUHD� IO F ULL�� DFHVWH� ILEUH� VH� FRQWUDFW � úL� HYLW � IODF Ua, în IODF U � VH� GHVFRPSXQ� I U � DUGHUH� GLUHFW � úL� FX� GHJDMDUHD� XQXL� PLURV�vQ HS WRU�� OD� LHúLUHD� GLQ� IODF U � descompunerea sH� RSUHúWH� úL� IRUPHD] � R�J P OLH gri sau neDJU . Se topesc la 170-180°C� úL� SUH]LQW � VWDELOLWDWH�WHUPLF �OD�WHPSHUDWXUL�VF ]XWH�GH�SkQ �OD�-195°C.

)D � GH� FHOHODOWH� ILEUH� VLQWHWLFH� DX� R PDV � VSHFLILF � UHODWLY� PDUH�(1,38 g/cm3), vQ� VWDUH� XPHG � vúL� S VWUHD] � UH]LVWHQ D� VSHFLILF , sunt imputrescibile úL au o PDUH� UH]LVWHQ � OD�DF LXQHD�DJHQ LORU�GH�PHGLX� úL�a ELRGLVWUXJ WRULlor.

De asemenea, FRQGXFWLELOLWDWHD� WHUPLF � HVWH� UHGXV � úL� SUH]LQW � o EXQ �FDSDFLWDWH�GH�L]RODUH�WHUPLF , elecWULF �úL�DFXVWLF �

'RPHQLLOH� GH� IRORVLQ � VXQW� OHJDWH� GH� SURSULHWDWHD� ORU� GH�neaprinzibilitate, realizându-VH� HV WXUL� SHQWUX� XQLW L� KRWHOLHUH�� V OL� GH�

15 � m w�k�y�i pPr)� ��� o i w�k�pj�d� � � y�}�i q n�o pPr)� – Merceologie. ����� � � ��� ���j���`������� � �"����� ���d� � ���.��� � ����������� � �"����� ����� , Editura � l)y�w�o7�?o i k�m g�~5p�y�p�o n�u m ie��������g.{�w.��� ��� -61; 16 Muscel I.I.; Câmpian I. (coordonatori) - Fibre neaprinzibile în prevenirea incendiilor g���s�i m p�o w � n�}�k�i y g~dp�y�p�o n�u m i , 1980, pag. 248-254;

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WHDWUX��FLQHPDWRJUDIH��DXWRPRELOH�HWF���SUHFXP�úL�GH�FDSDFLWDWHD�GH�GLULMDUH�D�FRQWUDFWDELOLW LL� ORU�� fiind folosite la fabricarea tricoturilor volumizate, antireumatismale etc.

Fibrele poliacrilice SUH]LQW XQ� DVSHFW� úL� WXúHX� DVHP Q WRDUH lânii, ILLQG�ILEUH�ÄFDOGH´�úL�DX�FD�UHSUH]HQWDQW�SH�SODQ�QD LRQDO�PHODQD�

0DVD� VSHFLILF � HVWH� UHGXV ��GH�����-1,18 g/cm3, dintre toate fibrele textile, SUH]LQW cea mai� PDUH� UH]LVWHQ � OD� DF LXQHD� DJHQ LORU� DWPRVIHULFL �WHPSHUDWXU �úL�XPLGLWDWH�, UH]LVW �OD�DF LXQHD bacteriilor, a moliilor etc., au o� EXQ � UH]LVWHQ � ID � GH� DJHQ LL� FKLPLFL� úL� ID � GH� F OGXU , sunt mai hidrofobe GHFkW�Q\ORQXO�úL�DX SURSULHW L�termice tot atât de bune ca lâna.

Fibrele poliacrilice sunt atacate� GH� DFL]LL� PLQHUDOL� FRQFHQWUD L iar rezistHQ D�ID �GH�DOFDOLL�HVWH�VXILFLHQW , astfel încât HOH�SRW�IL�VS ODWH��DOELWH�úL�YRSVLWH.

ÌQ� DSURSLHUHD� IO F ULL��DFHVWH� ILEUH� vQFHS� V � VH� WRSHDVF �� vQ� IODF U DUG� FX� WRSLUH� úL� FX� GHJDMDUHD� XQXL�PLURV de migdale amare, OD� LHúLUHD� GLQ�IODF U FRQWLQX �V �DUG �úL�IRUPHD] �R�FHQXú �QHUHJXODW ��QHDJU �úL�WDUH��/D�����&�vQFHS�V �VH�vQJ OEHQHDVF �úL�VH�WRSHVF�

Printre� GH]DYDQWDMH� VH� SRW� PHQ LRQD�� UH]LVWHQ � OD� IUHFDUH� UHGXV ��hiJURVFRSLFLWDWH�IRDUWH�UHGXV ���-�����VH�vQFDUF �FX�VDUFLQL�HOHFWURVWDWLFH��DX�DILQLWDWH� VF ]XW � ID � GH� FRORUDQ L�� VXQW� IULDELOH�� SURGXF� SLOOLQJ� úL� VH�PXUG UHVF�XúRU�17.

Multe dintre aceste dezavDQWDMH�DX�IRVW�vQGHS UWDWH�vQV �SULQ�DSDUL LD�unor noi sortimente�GH�ILEUH�SROLDFULOLFH��FDUH�SUH]LQW �XQ�efect pilling redus, DX� R� YROXPL]DUH� P ULW �� VXQW� EDFWHULFLGH� úL� LJQLIXJH� �ILLQG� IRORVLWH� FD�înlocuitor al azbestului), absorbante de umiditate etc.

DLQ�PHODQ � ����� VDX� vQ� DPHVWHF� cu alte fibre VH� IDEULF � WULFRWDMH��F SWXúHOL� SHQWUX� KDLQH�� FRYRDUH�� VWRIH� GH� PRELO �� VWRIH� SHQWUX� FRVWXPH� úL�SDOWRDQH��LPLWD LL�GH�EODQ ��XPSOXWXU �SHQWUX�VDFL�GH�GRUPLW��SO SXPL�HWF�

Fibrele poliuretanice (Perlon, Lastex, Lycra, Spandex, Estana, 9\UHQH�HWF���DX�UHYROX LRQDW�LQGXVWULD�FRQIHF LLORU,�I FkQG�SRVLELO �UHDOL]DUHD�XQRU�KDLQH�H[WUHP�GH�IOH[LELOH�úL�PXODELOH��)D �GH�ILEUHOH�GH�FDXFLXF�SH�FDUH�le înlocuiesc, aceste fibre sunt ILQH�úL�XQLIRUPH, UH]LVWHQ D�OD� WUDF LXQH este de trei ori mai mare decât a fibrelor de cauciuc, au o PDUH� UH]LVWHQ � OD�DF LXQHD� XOHLXULORU� o FDSDFLWDWH� WLQFWRULDO � P ULW � úL� R� UH]LVWHQ �VXSHULRDU � OD� DF LXQHD� OXPLQLL� �UH]LVWHQWH� OD� SURFHVXO� GH� vPE WUkQLUH���'H�DVHPHQHD�� VH� UHPDUF � SULQtr-o rezLVWHQ � H[FHS LRQDO � OD� IUHFDUH úL� OD�DF LXQHD�UDGLD LLORU�QXFOHDUH�

17 Ionescu- Muscel I.; Cucu V.D. – Merceologia produselor de export-import g(hji k�i l m n�o p�q"r k�s�p�l m o i n.i"t"u)v�w�o n.gx n�k�m o p�q�s�n2s�v�y�p�z�n�k�m w�o n2u�i�{�p�|�q i y.w i i�m n�}�k�i y�n.g.~5p�y�p�o n�u m i g7��������g.{�w������������

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

3H� OkQJ �DUWLFROHOH�GH� vPEU F PLQWH��FLRUDSL� úL�FRVWXPH�GH�EDLH�� VH�IRORVHVF�úL�vQ�FRQVWUXF LD�YHKLFXOHORU�úL�D�HFKLSDPHQWHORU�VSD LDOH�

Fibre minerale. )LEUHOH� GH� VWLFO sunt singurele fibre anorganice �PLQHUDOH�� FX� R� ODUJ � XWLOL]DUH� FRPHUFLDO �� ([LVW � GRX � WLSXUL� GH� ILEUH� GH�VWLFO ��FRQWLQXH�úL�VFXUWH��)LEUHOH�FRQWLQXH�VH�RE LQ�prin tragerea sticlei topite sub�IRUP �GH�ILUH��LDU�FHOH�VFXUWH�VH�RE LQ�SULQ�vQWUHUXSHUHD�IOX[XOXL�FRQWLQXX�al� ILEUHORU� GH� VWLFO , cu ajutorul aerului, aburului sau gazelor. Fibrele de VWLFO � VXQW� HODVWLFH� úL� SRW� IL� IRORVLWH� OD� IDEULFDUHD� GH� HV WXUL� FX� GHVWLQD LL�VSHFLDOH�� vQ�DPHVWHF�FX�U úLQL�� OD�IDEULFDUHD�XQRU�PDWUL H�HWF�, iar fibrele de FXDU �PLQHUDO�SRW�IL�utilizate în domenii de temperaturi ridicate, ele rezistând pe termen lung la temperaturi de 1400°C.

3ULQFLSDOHOH� SURSULHW L� DOH� ILEUHORU� GH� VWLFO � VXQW��neaprinzibilitate, DX�R�EXQ �UH]LVWHQ �OD�DJHQ LL�FKLPLFL�úL�OD�LQWemperii, sunt imputrescibile, pre]LQW � VWDELOLWDWH� GLPHQVLRQDO �� EXn � UH]LVWHQ � GLHOHFWULF � úL� VH� FXU �SULQ�VLPSOD�VS ODUH�FX�DS �

ÌQFHSkQG�FX�DQXO������DX�IRVW�UHDOL]DWH�úL�R�VHULH�GH� fibre ceramice SH�ED] de: oxid de aluminiu, FDUEXU �GH�VLOLFLX��FDUEXU �GH�ERU�HWF�, acestea fiind folosite mai ales vQ� RE LQHUHD� XQRU materiale compozite rezistente la temperaturi ridicate. Materialele FRPSR]LWH� SH�ED] � Ge fibre ceramice mai SUH]LQW �úL�EXQH�SURSULHW L�GH�UH]LVWHQ �úL,�ILLQG�XúRDUH, sunt larg utilizate în LQGXVWULD�DHURQDXWLF �FLYLO �úL�PLOLWDU ��OD�IDEULFDUHD�PXOWRU�FRPSRQHQWH�DOH�HOLFRSWHUHORU��VDWHOL LORU�úL�YHKLFXOHORU�VSD LDOH�

Fibrele metalice sunt folosite la fabricarea voalurilor iar fibrele de alumiQLX��DFRSHULWH�FX�PDWHULDOH�SODVWLFH��GDWRULW �OXFLXOXL�GHRVHELW�SH�FDUH-l prezLQW �� VXQW� IRORVLWH� OD� IDEULFDUHD� ILUHORU� GH� HIHFW. De asemenea, sunt IDEULFDWH� ILUH�GLQ�R HO� LQR[�DOLDW�FX�QLFKHO� VDX�FX�DOWH�PHWDOH�� FDUH�FRQIHU ��materialelor textile� SURSULHW L� DQWLVWDWL]DQWH�� GH� VWDELOLWDWH� WHUPLF � úL�UH]LVWHQ �OD�WUDF LXQH�

Fibrele� GH� FDUERQ� úL� JUDILW sunt fibre foarte rezistente, fapt pentru care VXQW�XWLOL]DWH�FD�DJHQW�GH�UH]LVWHQ �vQ�PDWHULDOHOH�FRPSR]LWH�

)LEUHOH� GH� FDUERQ� VXQW� UHDOL]DWH� SULQ� WUDWDUHD� WHUPLF � D� ILEUHORU� GH�UD\RQ�úL�D�FHORU�DFULOLFH,�vQ�YHGHUHD�PRGLILF ULL�ORU�Fhimice. Carbonizarea se produce într-R� DWPRVIHU � LQHUW �� OD� R� WHPSHUDWXU � FXSULQV � vQWUH� 1000 úL�2500°C�� /D� R� WHPSHUDWXU � GH� SHVWH� �����C, fibrele de carbon sunt transformate în fibre de grafit. $FHVWH� ILEUH� PDL� SRW� IL� UHDOL]DWH� úL� GLQ�gudronul rezidual al produselor petroliere.

$VHPHQHD� ILEUH� VXQW� IRORVLWH� OD� IXVHODMXO� úL� DULSLOH� DHURQDYHORU�� în realizarea VWUXFWXULORU�VSD LDOH�úL�a echipamentelor sportive.

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4.2 Firele textile

7RDWH�ILEUHOH�WH[WLOH�QDWXUDOH�DX�OXQJLPL�ILQLWH��FX�R�VLQJXU �H[FHS LH��P WDVHD��OXQJLPL�FDUH�YDULD] �GH�OD������FP��vQ�FD]XO�EXPEDFXOXL�DPHULFDQ�sau asiatic, la aproximativ 1 m, în cazul unora dintre fibrele liberiene. Cele mai multe dintre fibrele sintetice, fibre care sunt continue, sunt produse la DQXPLWH� OXQJLPL��SULQ� W LHUH��3HQWUX�D�SXWHD� IL�XWLOL]DWH� vQ� LQGXVWULD� WH[WLO ��aceste fibre trebuie transformate în fire rezistente,� FRQWLQXH�úL�DSWH�GH�D�IL�VXSXVH�XQRU�SUHOXFU UL�XOWHULRDUH�SULQ� HVHUH��WULFRWDUH�HWF.

Firele sunt produse textile VLPSOH� VDX� FRPSOH[H� RE LQXWH� SULQ�torsionarea mai multor fibre scurte sau SULQ� U VXFLUHD� D� GRX � VDX� a mai multor fire, în vederea UHDOL] ULL�UH]LVWHQ HL�QHFHVDUH�

Firul simplu se poate RE LQH� SULQ� omogenizarea, SDUDOHOL]DUHD� úL�unirea VXE�IRUP �GH�EDQG �FRQWLQX �a mai multor fibre scurte, de OXQJLPL�úL�ILQH H�GLIHULWH, care apoi sunt torsionate, procedeu numit ILODUH�WH[WLO .

)LUHOH� VLPSOH� SRW� IL� vQV � RE LQXWH� úL� GLQ� XQLUHD� úL� WRUVLRQDUHD� PDL�multor fibre continue, printr-un procedeu numit ILODUH�FKLPLF .

Sensul de torsiune al firelor simple poate fi spre dreapta, notat cu litera z sau spre stânga, notat cu litera s úL� HVWH� LPSULPDW� ILUHORU� SULQ�intermediul unor PDúLQL�GH�ILODW (în cazul fibrelor scurte) sau a unor PDúLQL�GH�ILODW�úL�U VXFLW��vQ�FD]XO�ILO ULL�FKLPLFH).

Firele duble sunt firele RE LQXWH�SULQ�U VXFLUHD D�GRX fire simple, VHQVXO�GH�U VXFLUH�imprimat ILLQG�LQYHUV�VHQVXOXL�GH�WRUVLRQDUH�DO�FHORU�GRX �fire simple�� $FHDVW � UHJXO � GH� DOWHUQDUH� D� VHQVXOXL� GH� WRUVLXQH� FX� FHO� GH�U VXFLUH�HVWH�LPSXV �GH�QHFHVLWDWHD�GH�D�VH�DVLJXUD�VWDELOLWate firului dublu.

6HQVXO�GH�U VXFLUH�DO�ILUHORU�GXEOH�VH�QRWHD] la fel ca în cazul firelor WRUVLRQDWH�� FX� PHQ LXQHD� F � OLWHUHOH� FH� VLPEROL]HD] � U VXFLUHD� VXQW� OLWHUH�mari, respectiv Z úL S. 6LQJXUD�H[FHS LH�HVWH�vQWâOQLW �vQ�FD]XO�firelor crep, în care tRUVLXQHD�úL�U VXFLUHD�VH�UHDOL]HD] �vQ�DFHODúL�VHQV�

Firele multiple presupun U VXFLUHD�PDL�PXOWRU�ILUH simple în sensul invers al torsiunii DFHVWRUD�� $WkW� ILUHOH� GXEOH� FkW� úL� FHOH� PXOWLSOH� SRDUW �numele de ILUH�U VXFLWH�GH�JUDGXO�vQWkL�

Firele cablate sau firele de gradul al doilea VXQW�ILUHOH�RE LQXWH�SULQ�U VXFLUHD� XQRU� ILUH� GXEOH� VDX� PXOWLSOH, într-un sens invers sensului de U VXFLUH�Dl firelor componente��úL�vQ�FD]XO�ILUHORU�FDEODWH�VH�UHVSHFW �DFHHDúi UHJXO �GH�DOWHUQDUH�D�VHQVXULORU�GH�U VXFLUH).

Dac � OD� vQFHSXW� ILODUHD� �WRDUFHUHD�� VH� H[HFXWD� PDQXDO�� XUP WRDUHD�WUHDSW �GH�HYROX LH�D�IRVW�URDWD�GH�WRUV��LQWURGXV �vQ�(XURSD�între secolele al XIII-OHD� úL� DO� ;,9-lea, din India. Inventarea, în secolul al XVIII-lea, a SULPHL�PDúLQL�GH�ILODW�EXPEDF, a revolu LRQDW�întreaga industrie�WH[WLO .

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

FilarHD�GLIHU �atât vQ�IXQF LH�GH�WLSXO�GH�ILEU �IRORVLW, FkW�úL�vQ�IXQF LH�GH�SURSULHW LOH�XUP ULWH�D�IL�LPSULPDWH�YLLWRDUHORU�ILUH�

Filarea bumbacului.�3ULQFLSDOHOH�RSHUD LL�DOH�SURFHVXOXL�GH�ILODUH�D�bumbacului sunt:

¾ FXU DUHD�EXPEDFXOXL�EUXW�GH�FRML��VHPLQ H��IUXQ]H��S PkQW�HWF��úL�IRUPDUHD�XQHL�S WXUL�FRQWLQXH�QXPLW cojoc;

¾ GHVWU PDUHD�úL�IRUPDUHD�XQHL�EHQ]L�FRQWLQXH�GH�ILEUH�DSUR[LPDWLY�paralele (cojocul este prelucrat la FDUG � dându-se fibrelor o oarecare orientarH��DVWIHO�F �vQ�EDQGD�ILQDO ��FDUH�SUH]LQW �vQV grosimi diferite, fibrele sunt oarecum paralele);

¾ XQLIRUPL]DUHD�� RPRJHQL]DUHD� úL� VXE LHUHD� EHQ]LORU� presupune asocierea mai multor�EHQ]L�GH�ILEUH�vQ�YHGHUHD�RE LQHULL�XQHLD�VLQJXUH��FX�R�JURVLPH� XQLIRUPL]DW (VH� UHDOL]HD] pe laminor)�� EDQG � FDUH� DSRL� HVWH�VXE LDW � SH� R� DOW � PDúLQ ,� QXPLW flaier�� FkQG� VH� LPSULP � úL� R� XúRDU �torsiune, având ca�UH]XOWDW�RE LQHUHD�SUHWRUWXOXL;

¾ WRUVLRQDUHD�úL�RE LQHUHD�ILUXOXL�au�ORF�GXS �WUHFHUHD�de mai multe ori a fibrelor priQ� IODLHU�� vQ� IXQF LH� GH� ILQH HD� GRULW � D� ILUXOXL. Torsionarea este�UHDOL]DW �OD�PDúLQD�FX�LQHOH, iar firele re]XOWDWH�VXQW�vQI úXUDWH�SH� HYL.

FirHOH�GH�EXPEDF�VXQW�RE LQXWH� vQ�WUHL�FODVH�GH�ILQH H�� fire de ILQH H�VXSHULRDU , din fibre lungi, de peste 27 mm; fire de ILQH H�PLMORFLH úL�fire de ILQH H� LQIHULRDU �� groase, numite vigonie, RE LQXWH� GLQ� EXPEDF�PDL� VFXUW, GHVHRUL�vQ�DPHVWHF�FX�EXPEDF�UHJHQHUDW�VDX�]GUHQ H (fibrele au un grad de paralelizare mai redus,�LDU�ILUHOH�SUH]LQW �un aspect�S URV��

Firele liberiene pot fi fire fine��VXE LUL�úL�PLMORFLL���RE LQXWH�GLQ�IXLRU�úL� fire groase��RE LQXWH�GLQ�FkO L��)LUHOH� IRDUWH�VXE LUL�VH�RE LQ�SULQ�RSHUD LL�GH� SLHSW QDUH� DWHQW � úL� ILODUH� vQ� VWDUH� XPHG � D� IXLRUXOXL� �DVHPHQHD� ILUH� VH�IRORVHVF� OD� IDEULFDUHD� HV WXULORU� VXE LUL� úL� IRDUWH� VXE LUL��� ILUHOH� GH� ILQH H�mijlocie� VH� UHDOL]HD] � SULQ� SLHSW QDUHD� úL� ILODUHD� SUHWRUWXOXL� XPHG�� DOF WXLW�GLQ�DPHVWHF�GH�FkO L�úL�IXLRU, iar firele groase (Nm 15), cu aspect mai pufos, VH�RE LQ�SULQ�SLHSW QDUHa�úL�ILODUHa în stare uscaW �D�FkO LORU.

)LUHOH�GH�OkQ �VH�SUH]LQW �VXE�IRUP �GH: 9 fire de OkQ � FDUGDW : sunt ILUH� JURDVH�� FX� XQ� DVSHFW� PDL� S URV��

RE LQXWH�GLQ�OkQ �GH�WXQVRDUH��OkQ �W E F UHDVF ��UHJHQHUDW ��GLQ�GHúHXUL�VDX�GLQ�DPHVWHF�FX�FHORILEU �VDX�cu alte fibre scurte, printr-XQ�SURFHV�DVHP Q WRU�ILO ULL�YLJRQLHL�

9 ILUH�GH�OkQ �SLHSW QDW : VXQW�ILUH�QHWHGH�úL�ILQH��RE LQXWH�GLQ�ILEUH�GH�OkQ �PHULQRV�VDX�GLQ�UDVH�vQFUXFLúDWH��PDL�OXQJL�GH���FP��SULQWU-un proces GH�ILODUH�DVHP Q WRU�ILO ULL�EXPEDFXOXL�SLHSW QDW��)LEUHORU�Oe sunt suprimate RQGXOD LLOH� QDWXUDOH� SULQWU-o� VHULH� GH� SURFHVH� GH�SLHSW QDUH (prin care sunt vQGHS UWDWH�úL�ILEUHOH�PDL�VFXUWH), de XPH]LUH��vQWLQGHUH�úL�SUHVDUH�

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9 ILUH�GH�OkQ �VHPLSLHSW QDW : sunt fire cu caracteristici intermediare úL�VXQW�RE LQXWH�SULQ�SURFHVH�intermediare de filare. Benzile de fibre nu mai VXQW�VXSXVH�RSHUD LHL�GH�SLHSW QDUH�úL�GH�vQGHS UWDUH�D�ILEUHORU�VFXUWH��DVWIHO�F �ILUHOH�UH]XOWDWH�QX�YRU�IL�QLFL�QHWHGH��FD�FHOH�SLHSW QDWH��GDU�QLFL�S URDVH��ca cele cardate.

Fibrele chimice scurte (celofibra, fibrele proteice etc.), separate sau în amestec cu bumbac, sunW� ILODWH� SULQ� SURFHGHH� úL� cu utilaje de filare aVHP Q WRDUH�FHORU�IRORVLWH� vQ�FD]XO� ILUHORU�GH�EXPEDF, iar fibrele chimice mai lungi, FX� OXQJLPL� VLPLODUH� ILEUHORU� GH� OkQ �� VXQW� ILODWH� SULQ�PHWRGH� úL�utilaje specifice lânii.

)LUHOH�GH�P WDVH. Înainte de a se extrage firele GLQ�JRJRúL��acestea sunt supuse� XQHL� RSHUD LL� GH� GHJRPDUH, într-R� VROX LH� VODE� DOFDOLQ �� SHQWUX�dizolvarea sericinei, astfel ca firele V � fie� H[WUDVH� FX� XúXULQ � úL� GHS QDWe. 0 WDVHD�HVWH�GHS QDW �prin trageUHD�VLPXOWDQ �D�ILEUHORU�GH�SH��-��JRJRúL��iar pentru firele mai groase, num UXO� JRJRúLORU� FUHúWH� SkQ � OD� ��� RE LQkQGX-se astfel ILUXO�GH�P WDVH�FUXG sau de borangic. Ca urmare, acest ILU�HVWH�IRUPDW�GLQ���SkQ �OD����GH�ILEUH�QDWXUDOH��FDUH�SULQ�GHS QDUH�VH�OLSHVF�între ele,�FX�R�DGHUHQ �SHUIHFW .�0 WDVHD�FRPHUFLDOL]DW �FD�P WDVH�FUXG �VH�VXSXQH� XQHL� UHGHS Q UL�� SHQWUX� FXU LUH�� LDU� FHD� GHVWLQDW � LQGXVWULHL�WULFRWDMHORU� úL� D� HV WXULORU� WUHEXLH� FXU DW �� GXEODW � úL� U VXFLW �� RSHUD LL�cunoscute sub denumirea de mulinare.�'XEODUHD�ILUHORU�GH�P WDVH�FRQVW �vQ�reunirea mai�PXOWRU�ILUH�úL�WRUVLRQDUHD�DQVamblului în sens invers.

Firele voluminoase DX� DS UXW� FD� XUPDUH� D� QHFHVLW LL� de produse WH[WLOH�XúRDUH� úL�FRQIRUWDELOH, ce nu se puteau realiza din fire sintetice din filamente continue, care�DX�XQ�YROXP�PXOW�PDL�UHGXV�GHFkW�DO�FHORU�RE LQXWH�prin filarea fibrelor scurte.

3URFHGHXO�GH�YROXPL]DUH�D�ILUHORU�SRDUW �QXPHOH�GH�texturare úL,�GDF �OD� vQFHSXW� SULQ� WH[WXUDUH� VH� XUP UHa modificarea structurii fibrelor ILODPHQWDUH��DVW ]L�PHWRGHOH�GH�WH[WXUDUH�FXSULQG�

� WH[WXUDUHD�SULQ�U VXFLUH; � WH[WXUDUHD�SULQ�U VXFLUH�IDOV ��ILUXO�HVWH�U VXFLW��IL[DW�úL�GHVU VXFLW��DS UkQG�DVWIHO�DQXPLWH�RQGXOHXUL��

� texturare prin comprimare; � texturare prin spiralare� �ILUXO� HVWH� WUHFXW� SH� R� PXFKLH� PHWDOLF �DVFX LW �úL�vQF O]LW ��

� texturare prin buclare; � WH[WXUDUH� SULQ� H[WUXGHUH� VLPXOWDQ � D� GRL� VDX� PDL� PXO L� SROLPHUL�

SULQ�DFHODúL�RULILFLX�DO�ILOLHUHL etc. Firele de efect VH� GLIHUHQ LD] � GH� UHVWXO� ILUHORU�prin modalitatea de

YRSVLUH��SULQ�DPHVWHFXO�GH�PDWHULDO�úL�SULQ�SURFHVXO�GH�IDEULFD LH��7RW�ILUH�GH�

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

HIHFW�VXQW�úL�ILUHOH�GH�FRQWUDVW��FXP�DU�IL�ILUHOH�GH�P WDVH� HVXWH�vn stofele de OkQ �HWF�

Firele de efect de culoare pot fi: 9 fire vopsite IO F UDW, cu por LXQL� YRSVLWH� QHUHJXODW�� vQ� FXORUL�

diferite, pe un fond deschis; 9 fire vopsite IO F UDW� în degrade, vopsite� vQ� QXDQ H� WUHSWDWH�� SH�

GLUHF LD�ILUXOXL� 9 fire melanj, RE LQXWe prin dublarea în flaier a unor benzi de culori

diferite etc. Firele de efect prin procedee de filare pot fi: 9 ILUH�GH�] SDG ��RE LQXWH�SULQ�ILODUHD�XQXL�DPHVWHF�GH�OkQ �FX�EXUHW� 9 ILUH�GH�WRF WXU ��FDUH�VH�RE LQ�GLQ�OkQ �SLHSW QDW ��FX�EXF L�GH�ILU�

GH�EXPEDF�VDX�GH�P WDVH��GH�FXORUL�GLIHULWH� 9 fire înmugurite, FX� QRGXUL� GH� FXORDUH� GLIHULW � Ge cea a corpului

firului; 9 ILUH� VHP QDWH� FX� SHUOH�� RE LQXWH� SULQ� LQWURGXFHUHD� XQXL� OLFKLG�

vâscos în corpul firului��OLFKLG�FDUH�SULQ�VROLGLILFDUH�FDS W �XQ�DVSHFW�VWLFORV� 9 fire cu nopeuri, RE LQXWH�SULQ�vQI úXUDUHD�XQXL�ILU�GH�HIHFW�SH�XQ�ILU�

de fond, prin LQWHUPHGLXO�XQXL�ILU�GH�OHJ WXU � 9 fire cu flameuri, UHDOL]DWH�SULQ� LQWURGXFHUHD�XQRU�P QXQFKLXUL�GH�

ILEUH�vQWUH�GRX �ILUH��vQ�PRPHQWXO�U VXFLULL�DFHVWRUD� 9 fire cu efect dantelat, cu efect de umbre, de spirale etc.18. Fireturile sunt produse trefilate din meWDOH�SUH LRDVH��DXU�VDX�DUJLQW��

úL� FDUH� SRW� IL�� fir metalic unic�� ILU� PHWDOLF� U VXFLW� (dintr-un fir metalic cu RULFH�DOW�ILU�VLPSOX��úL�fir cu efect de acoperire��vQI úXUDW�vQ�VSLUDO �vQ�MXUXO�XQXL�ILU�GH�EXPEDF��P WDVH��YLVFR]D�VDX�ILU�VLQWHWLF�

Firele textile sunt caracterizate printr-o serie de indicatori de calitate, printre care: densitatea de lungime, torsiunea, sarcina de rupere, alungirea la rupere úL�uniformitatea.

Densitatea de lungime sau fLQH HD� ILUHORU VH� H[SULP � SULQ� UDSRUWXO�GLQWUH� PDVD� úL� OXngimea firului (sistemul direct, în Tex) sau invers, prin UDSRUWXO�GLQWUH�OXQJLPHD�ILUXOXL�úL�PDVD�OXL��VLVWHPXO�LQGLUHFW��vQ�1P��

Densitatea de lungime în sistemul direct VH�GHWHUPLQ �SULQ�UDSRUWDUHD�masei� ILUXOXL� �GHWHUPLQDW � SULQ� FkQW ULUHD firului condL LRQDW� vQ� DWPRVIHU �standard)�OD�R�DQXPLW �OXQJLPH�GH�ILU��vQWUH���-200 m��vQ�IXQF LH�GH�ILQH HD�firelor, în cazul metodei dH�GHWHUPLQDUH�SH�SRU LXQL�OXQJL�VDX������P��pentru PHWRGD�GH�GHWHUPLQDUH�SH�SRU LXQL�VFXUWH�.

18 Ionescu- Muscel I.; Stoian E.; Atanasie I. – ���'��� ���2�����"����������� �. ?� ��¡`¢&�������.����� �'£�� � � �����(¤ ��� � ��� ��� � , Editura � n�}�k�i y g�~5p�y�p�o n�u m i g?��������g.{�w����.����� -341;

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Merceologie

)RUPXOHOH�GH�GHWHUPLQDUH�D�GHQVLW LL de lungime a firelor prin cele GRX �VLVWHPH�VXQW�XUP WRDUHOH�

Ttex = L

M x 1000, în care:

Ttex = titlul în tex, respectiv masa în grame a 1000 m de fir analizat; M = masa firului, în grame; L = lungimea firului‚în m.

Nm = ML

, în care:

1P� �QXP UXO�PHWULF� L = lungimea firului‚în m; M = masa firului, în grame. 2�DOW �PRGDOLWDWH�GH�H[SULPDUH�D�GHQVLW LL�GH�OXQJLPH�HVWH�SULQ�WLWOXO�

în denieri, care repre]LQW �PDVD�vQ�JUDPH�D������P�ILU analizat, fomula fiind XUP WRDUHa:

Tden = L

M x 9000, în care:

Tden = titlul în denieri, respectiv masa în grame a 9000 m de fir analizat;

M = masa firului, în grame; L = lungimea firului‚în m. 5HOD LLOH�GH� WUDQVIRUPDUH�GLQWU-un sistem al�GHQVLW LL�GH� OXngime în

altul�VXQW�XUP WRDUHOH� Tden = Ttex x 9; Ttex = 0,111Tden;

Tden = Nm

9000; Nm =

Tden

9000

Ttex = Nm

1000; Nm =

Ttex

1000;

Nm x Ttex= 1000 Gradul de torsionare sau�GH�U VXFLUH�UHSUH]LQW �QXP UXO�GH�URWD LL�GH�

WRUVLXQH� �U VXFLUH�� DOH� ILUXOXL� vQ� MXUXO� D[HL� VDOH�� UDSRUWDW� OD� XQLWDWHa de OXQJLPH� D� ILUXOXL� vQDLQWH� GH� GHWRUVLRQDUH� úL� VH� H[SULP � vQ� QXP U� GH�torsiuni/m.

ÌQ� JHQHUDO�� QXP UXO� GH� WRUVLXQL� LPSULPDWH� XQXL� ILU� GHWHUPLQ � úL�LQIOXHQ HD] �SURSULHW LOH�DFHVWXLD��

Astfel,�ILUHOH�GH�XU]HDO ��FDUH�WUHEXLH�V �ILH�PDL�UH]LVWHQWH��YRU�DYea XQ�JUDG�GH�WRUVLXQH�PDL�ULGLFDW�GHFkW�FHOH�GH�E W WXU ��ILUHOH�SHQWUX� HV WXULOH�VF PRúDWH�YRU�DYHD�XQ�JUDG�GH�WRUVLXQH�IRDUWH�VF ]XW��ILUHOH�SHQWUX� HV WXULle

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

mai aspre vor avea un grad de torsiune mai ridicat, în timp ce firele pentru HV WXULle cu un� WXúHX�PRDOH vor fi caracterizate printr-un�QXP U�PDL�UHGXV�GH�WRUVLXQL�P�� HV WXULOH�DOF WXLWH�GLQ�ILUH�PDL�WRUVLRQDWH�YRU�UH LQH�PDL�JUHX�PXUG ULD��YRU�DYHD�R�FRQWUDF LH�PDL�PDUH��GDU�QX�SRW�PHQ LQH�FXWHOH�HWF�

7RWRGDW ��SULQ�U VXFLUH��VH�FRQIHU �QX�QXPDL�UH]LVWHQ �ILUXOXL, dar are ORF�úL�R�UHGXFHUH�D�OXQJLPLL�OXL��'H�H[HPSOX��XQ�ILU�U VXFLW�HVWH�FX������PDL�VFXUW�GHFkW�ILUHOH�VLPSOH�GLQ�FDUH�SURYLQH��SURFHQW�FDUH�FUHúWH�vQ�FD]XO�ILUHORU�JURDVH�úL�IRDUWH�U VXFLWH�

3ULQFLSLXO� GHWHUPLQ ULL� JUDGXOXL� GH� WRUVLXQH�FRQVW � vQ� GHWRUVLRQDUHD�ILUXOXL� �U VXFLUHD� acestuia în sensul invers al sensului de torsiune sau de U VXFLUH��SkQ �OD�RE LQHUHD�ILEUHORU�SDUDOHOL]DWH��în cazul firelor simple) sau SkQ � OD� QLYHO� GH� ILUH� FRPSRQHQWH�� SDUDOHOL]DWH� �în cazul firelor duble, multiple sau cablate)�úL�UDSRUWDUHD�QXP UXOXL�GH�WRUVLXQL�OD�PHWUXO�GH�ILU�

6DUFLQD� GH� UXSHUH� úL� DOXQJLUHD� OD� UXSHUH� D� ILUHORU� UHSUH]LQW �caracteristici de calitate foarte importante pentru domeniul lor de utilizare.

Ambele caracteristici sunt determinate cu ajutorul dinamometrului astfel: firul,�FRQGL LRQDW� vQ�DWPRVIHU �VWDQGDUG�úL�SUHWHQVLRQDW, este prins la DPEHOH� FDSHWH� vQ� FkWH� R� FOHP � DIODWH� OD� R� GLVWDQ � XQD� ID � GH� FHDODOW � GH� ���� ��� PP�� FOHPD� VXSHULRDU � ILLQG� IL[ �� LDU� FHD� LQIHULRDU � PRELO . Prin LQWHUPHGLXO� FOHPHL� PRELOH� VH� DF LRQHD] � DVXSUD� ILUXOXL� FX� R� IRU � GH�WUDF LXQH�vQ�FUHúWHUH�úL�FX�R�YLWH] �FRQVWDQW ��astfHO�FD�UXSHUHD�V �DLE �ORF�vQ�circa 20 de secunde.

5H]XOWDWXO� ILQDO� VH� H[SULP � FD� PHGLH� D� PDL� PXOWRU� GHWHUPLQ UL��SHQWUX�D�VH�RE LQH o�SUREDELOLWDWH�D�H[DFWLW LL�GHWHUPLQ ULORU�GH�����

$OXQJLUHD�OD�UXSHUH�HVWH�GDW �GH�GLIHUHQ D�GLQWUH�OXQJLPHD firului în momentul ruperii�úL�OXQJLPHD�LQL LDO �D�DFHVWXLD��dimensiune ce se FLWHúWH�SH�ULJOD�GLQDPRPHWUXOXL��UDSRUWDW �OD�OXQJLPHD�LQL LDO �

AlXQJLUHD�VH�H[SULP �vQ���úL�HVWH�GDW �GH�UHOD LD�

= Li

LiLf � x 100, în care:

= alungirea la rupere, %; Lf = lungimea firului înainte de rupere, în mm; /L� �OXQJLPHD�LQL LDO �D�ILUXOXL��vQ�PP. ùL�DOXQJLUHD la rupere se va determina tot ca�PHGLH�DULWPHWLF �D�PDL�

PXOWRU�GHWHUPLQ UL� Determinarea ambilor indicatori de calitate se poate efectua atât

DVXSUD� ILUHORU� vQ� VWDUH� XVFDW � úL� FRQGL LRQDWH�� FkW� úL asupra firelor în stare XPHG �

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Uniformitatea firelor se poate determina prin metode subiectLYH� úL�obiective. Firele pot prezenta o serie de defecte, printre care: nopeuri, vQJURú UL��VF PRú UL�HWF��FDUH�DIHFWHD] �QX�QXPDL�DVSHcWXO�DFHVWRUD��GDU�úL�R�serie de caracteristici fizico-mecanice.

Metodele obiective� GH� DSUHFLHUH� D� XQLIRUPLW LL� ILUHORU� presupun P VXUDUHD� GLDPHWUXOXL�� D� VHF LXQLL�� D� UH]LVWHQ HL� úL� D� DOXQJLULL� OD� UXSHUH� D�DFHVWRUD� úL� VWDELOLUHD� YDULD LLORU� GLQWUH� YDORULOH� DFHVWRU� LQGLFDWRUL. Neuniformitatea se expULP � ILH�GLUHFW,� vQ���GH�QHUHJXODULWDWH�� ILH�JUDILF�úL�GXS � DQDOL]D� úL� LQWHUSretaUHD� UH]XOWDWHORU� VH� FDOFXOHD] � SURFHQWXO de neregularitate.

0HWRGD� VXELHFWLY � SUHVXSXQH� vQI úXUDUHD XQXL� ILU� GH� R� DQXPLW �OXQJLPH�SH�R�SODF �GH�FRQWUDVW��vQ�FD]XO�XQXL�ILU�DOE��SODFD�HVWH�GH�FXORDUH�QHDJU ���GH�IRUP �GUHSWXQJKLXODU ��DVWIHO�FD�VSLUHOH�ILUXOXL�V �ILH�GLVSXVH�vQ�mod regulat, la anumite intervale. În acest mod, firele pot fi observate cu ochiul liber, identificate defectele� úi comparate cu anumite etaloane IRWRJUDILFH�� vQ� FDUH�� vQ� IXQF LH� GH� QXP UXO� úL� GH� GLPHQVLXQHD� GHIHFWHORU��firele sunt clasificate în 4 clase de calitate.

Unul dintre indicii de calitate ai firelor este neregularitatea Sommer, FDOFXODW �GXS �XUP WRDUHD�UHOD LH�

N = nX

ns)XsX(2 �

x 100, în care:

N = neregularitatea Sommer; ;� �PHGLD�WXWXURU�GHWHUPLQ ULORU�DVXSUD�GHQVLW LL�GH�OXQJLPH�VDX�D�

sarcinii de rupere a firului; ;V� �PHGLD�GHWHUPLQ ULORU�Dle�F URU�YDORUL�LQGLYLGXDOH�VXQW�PDL�PLFL�

GHFkW�PHGLD�WXWXURU�GHWHUPLQ ULORU� Q� �QXP UXO�GH�GHWHUPLQ UL� QV� � QXP UXO� GH� GHWHUPLQ UL ale� F URU� YDORUL� LQGLYLGXDOH� VXQW� Pai

PLFL�GHFkW�PHGLD�WXWXURU�GHWHUPLQ ULORU &X�FkW�;V�VH�vQGHS UWHD] �GH�;��QHUHJXODULWDWHD�ILUXOXL�HVWH�PDL�PDUH,

iar cu cât N se apropie de 1%, cu atât firul este mai bun (un fir foarte bun are o neregularitate Sommer între 1-2%, iar un fir bun între 4-5%).

���� HV WXULle

HV WXULOH� VXQW� P UIXUL� WH[WLOH� ILQLWH� VXE� IRUPD� XQRU� IRL� SODQH� VDX�tubulare, reali]DWH�SULQ�vPELQDUHD��GXS �DQXPLWH�PRGHOH��D�GRX �VLVWHPH�GH�fire: ILUH�GH�XU]HDO �úL�ILUH�GH�E W WXU �

)LUHOH� GH� XU]HDO sunt firele care sunt dispuse îQ� GLUHF LD� OXQJLPLL�HV WXULL��VXQW�SDUDOHOH�FX�PDUJLQLOH� HV WXULL�, iar ILUHOH�GH�E W WXU sunt cele

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

FDUH�� GXS � DQXPLWH�PRGHOH�� QXPLWH�armuri sau OHJ WXUL,� OHDJ � WUDQVYHUVDO��prin diferite�vQFUXFLú UL��ILUHOH�GH�XU]HDO �

������)DEULFDUHD� HV WXULORU

Fabricarea� HV WXULORU� SUHVXSXQH R� VHULH� GH� RSHUD LL�� Uespectiv:

opeUD LL� SUHPHUJ WRDUH� efectuate asupra firelor�� HVHUHD� SURSULX-]LV � úL�ILQLVDUHD� HV WXULORU�

$QWHULRU� HVHULL�� DVXSUD� ILUHORU� VH� H[HFXW � oSHUD LL� GH� SUHJ WLUH� D�

urzelii, care cuprind: GHS QDUHD�ILUHORU�GH�XU]HDO ; urzirea�úL Q Y GLUHD�úL RSHUD LL� GH� SUHJ WLUH� D� E W WXULL, care constau în: canetarea, dublarea úL U VXFLUHD�ILUHORU�GH�E W WXU �.

3ULQFLSLXO� GH� HVHUH� SURSULX-]LV � FRPSRUW � WUHL� ID]H�� SULQ� UHOXDUHD�F URUD�LD�QDúWHUH� HV WXUD�

� ridiFDUHD� úL� FRERUkUHD� XQHL� S U L� GLQ� ILUHOH� GH� XU]HDO �� SHQWUX�formarea rostului;

� LQWURGXFHUHD�vQ�URVW�D�E W WXULL�SULQ�LQWHUPHGLXO�XQHL�VXYHLFL� � vQGHVDUHD�E W WXULL�vQ�URVW� ÌQFUXFLúDUHD� ILUHORU� GH� XU]HDO � FX� FHOH� GH� E W WXU , în diferite

PRGDOLW L, conduce� OD� DSDUDUL LD� XQRU� HV WXUL� FX� GHVHQH� YDULDWH�� GDU� úL� FX�SURSULHW L�IL]LFR-PHFDQLFH�úL�WHKQRORJLFH�GLIHULWH�

/HJ WXULOH� VH� UHSH]LQW � SH� KvUWLH� PLOLPHWULF , cu respectarea XUP WRDUHORU�UHJXOL�

9 VSD LLOH�GLQWUH�GRX �OLQLL�YHUWLFDOH�UHSUH]LQW �ILUHOH�GH�XU]HDO � 9 VSD LLOH�GLQWUH�GRX �OLQLL�RUL]RQWDOH�UHSUH]LQW �ILUHOH�GH�E W WXU � 9 S WU HOHOH�GLQ�GHVHQ�UHSUH]LQW �SXQFWHOH�GH�vQFUXFLúDUH�D�ILUHORU�GH�

XU]HDO �FX�FHOH�GH�E W WXU � 9 FkQG�ILUXO�GH�XU]HDO � WUHFH��OHDJ ��SHVWH�FHO�GH�E W WXU ��S WU LFD�

VH�KDúXUHD] (fir luat); 9 S WU LFD�QHKDúXUDW �UHSUH]LQW �ILUXO�GH�E W WXU �GHDVXSUD�FHOXL�GH�

XU]HDO ��ILU�O VDW�; 9 partea din desen�FDUH�VH�UHSHW �vQ�FDGUXO�vQWUHJXOXL,�DWkW�vQ�GLUHF LD�

XU]HOLL�FkW�úL� în cea a E W WXULL��SRDUW �QXPHOH�GH�UDSRUW�GH� OHJ WXU . El se H[SULP � VXE� IRUPD� XQXL� UDSRUW�� OD� QXP U WRU� ILLQG� QXP UXO� ILUHORU� GH�XU]HDO , LDU� OD� QXPLWRU� QXP UXO� ILUHORU� GH� E W WXU ,� GXS � FDUH� VH� UHSHW �desenul.

/HJ WXULOH�VH�FODVLILF � vQ� OHJ WXUL� IXQGDPHQWDOH��SkQ] ��GLDJRQDO�úL�atlaz, OHJ WXUL� derivate din cele fundamentDOH�� ULSV�� SDQDPD�� FUHS� HWF�� úL�OHJ WXUL�FRPELQDWH: fagure, carouri etc.

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/HJ WXUD�SkQ] �HVWH�WLSXO�FHO�PDL�VLPSOX�GH�OHJ WXU , în care un fir GH�XU]HDO �WUHFH��OHDJ ��SHVWH�XQ�ILU�GH�E W WXU �úL�DSRL�SH�VXE�DFHVWD��(VWH�WLSXO� GH� OHJ WXU � FDUH� FRQIHU � DFHODúL� GHVHQ� SH� ID D� úL� SH� GRVXO� HV WXULL��DYkQG� WRWRGDW � FHOH�PDL�PXOWH� SXQFWH� GH� OHJDUH��La acest tip de leJ WXU ��VXSUDID D� HV WXULL� HVWH� QHWHG � úL� XQLIRUP �� GHVLPHD� ILUHORU� HVWH�PHGLH, iar UH]LVWHQ D�HVWH�PDUH��QXP U�PDUH�GH�SXQFWH�GH�OHJDUH��

Ca urmare,� HV WXULOH�ÄSkQ] ³�YRU�IL�FHO�PDL�GHV�vQWkOQLWH�OD� HV WXULOH�GLQ�EXPEDF��LQ��FkQHS ��LXW ��OkQ ��OHJ WXU �SRVWDY��úL�P WDVH�VDX�WLS�P WDVH�(OHJ WXU �WDIWa).

ÌQ�UHSUH]HQWDUH�JUDILF – figura nr.5 ��OHJ WXUD�SkQ] �VH�SUH]LQW �VXE�IRUPD�XQHL� WDEOH�GH�úDK�� iar raportul este cel mai mic posibil: R 2/2� �GRX �fire de XU]HDO �úL�GRX �ILUH�GH�E W WXU �.

Figura nr.5 - /HJ WXUD�SkQ] R 2/2

/HJ WXUD�GLDJRQDO��VHUM��– figura nr. 6 - FRQIHU � HV WXULL�XQ�DVSHFW�

caracteristic, cu linii oblice, paralele, dispuse de la o margine la alta. În IXQF LH� GH� VHQVXO� GLDJRQDOXOXL�� OHJ WXUD� SRDWH� IL�� OHJ WXU � diagonal spre dreapta� úL� OHJ WXU � diagonal spre stânga�� LDU� vQ� IXQF LH� GH� XQJKLXO�diagonalului, acesta poate fi: diagonal normal (cu un unghi de înclinare al liniLORU�GH������úL�diagonal culcat (când unghiul de înclinare este mai mic de 45°).

'H�DVHPHQHD��OHJ WXULOH�GLDJRQDO�SRW�IL��GLDJRQDO�GH�E W WXU �(când QXP UXO�ILUHORU�GH�E W WXU �vizibile pe ID D� HV WXULL� vQWUHFH�QXP UXO�ILUHORU de urzeal ), diagonal de urzHDO � �FkQG�SH� ID D� HV WXULL� VXQW�SUHGRPLQDQWH�ILUHOH�YL]LELOH�GH�XU]HDO ��úL�diagonal echilibrat.

3XQFWHOH� GH� vQFUXFLúDUH� VXQW�PDL� SX LQH� GHFkW� OD� OHJ WXUD� SkQ] � úL, GHFL�� HV WXULOH�YRU�IL�netede, mai dese, PDL�PRL�úL�PDL�SX LQ�UH]LVWHQWH�decât HV WXULOH� SH� ED] � GH� OHJ WXU � SkQ] �� LDU� GHVHQXO� GH� SH� ID D� HV WXULL� VH� YD�UHJ VL�vQ�QHJDWLY�SH�GRVXO�DFHVWHLD�

3H�OkQJ �UDSRUWXO�FODVLF��R 3/3 sau R 4/4, OD� HV WXULOH�GLDJRQDO�VH�YD�H[SULPD�úL�raportul diagonal,�vQ�FDUH�OD�QXP U WRU�DSDUH�QXP UXO�ILUHORU�GH�urzHDO �FH�VH�HYLGHQ LD] �SH�ID D� HV WXULL,�LDU�OD�QXPLWRU�QXP UXO�ILUHORU�GH�

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

E W WXU � GH� SH� ID D� HV WXULL. 'H� DVHPHQHD�� VH� YD� UHSUH]HQWD� úL� VHQVXO�diagonalului, printr-R�V JHDW �RULHQWDW �VSUH�VWkQJD�VDX dreapta.

Figura nr. 6 - /HJ WXU �GLDJRQDO�GH�E W WXU �spre stânga R 4/4; D 1/3 M�

/HJ WXUD� DWOD] (figura nr. 7) PDL� HVWH� vQWkOQLW � úL� VXE� QXPHOH� GH�

OHJ WXUD� VDWLQ úL cel mai mic raport este de 5/5. /D� IHO� FD� úL� GLDJRQDOXO��atlazul poate fi de XU]HDO úL�GH�E W WXU (DWOD]XO�GH�E W WXU �HVWH�QXPLW�úL�satin),�GDU�SXQFWHOH�GH�OHJ WXU �VXQW�GLVSXVH�GXS �DQXPLWH�UHJXOL��ÌQ�IXQF LH�GH�PRGXO�GH�UHDOL]DUH�D�SXQFWXOXL�GH�OHJ WXU ��DWOD]XO�SRDWH�IL�FX�XUFDUH�GH�GRX �ILUH�VDX�GH�WUHL�ILUH��QXP UXO�GH�ILUH�GH�XUFDUH�ILLQG�WUHFXW�vQ�SDUDQWH]H�

HV WXULOH� DOWD]�VDWLQ� DX� ILUHOH� IH HL� PDL� GHVH� GHFkW� DOH� GRVXOXL��VXSUDID D� HVWH� PDL� VWU OXFLWRDUH�� PDL� QHWHG � úL� PDL� UH]LVWHQW la frecare, H[LVWkQG�DVWIHO�R�GLVWLQF LH�FODU �vQWUH�ID D�úL�GRVXO�PDWHULDOXOXL��Acest tip de OHJ WXU �HVWH�vQWvOQLW�OD� HV WXULOH�SHQWUX�IH HOH�GH�SODSXP ��F SWXúHOL��VWRIH�GH�PRELO �HWF��

Figura nr. 7 - Atlaz�GH�XU]HDO ��5����� A 4/1; (3)

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'LQ� OHJ WXUD� SkQ] �� FD� OHJ WXUL� GHULYDWH� vQWkOQLP� OHJ WXUD� ULSV� úL�panama.

/HJ WXUD�ULSV�(figura nr. 8) HVWH�OHJ WXUD�vQ�FDUH�GRX �VDX�PDL�Pulte ILUH�GH�E W WXU �OHDJ �SHVWH�úL�VXE�XQ�ILU�GH�XU]HDO ��LDU�XUP WRUXO�JUXS�OHDJ �LQYHUV� FX� FHO� GLQDLQWH�� FD]� vQ� FDUH� VH� RE LQH� XQ� ULSV� GH� XU]HDO sau rips transversal. 5LSVXO�GH�E W WXU �HVWH�OHJ WXUD�vQ�FDUH�GRX �VDX�PDL�PXOWH�ILUH�GH� XU]HDO � OHDJ � SHVWH� úL� VXE� XQ� ILU� GH� E W WXU �� LDU� XUP WRUXO� JUXS� OHDJ �invers ID �GH�FHO�GLQDLQWH��QXPLW�úL�rips longitudinal.

5LSVXO�SRDWH�IL�FX�DVSHFW�UHJXODW��QHUHJXODW��DPHVWHFDW�úL�IDOV��OD�FDUH�OHJ WXUD� GH� ED] � HVWH� OHJ WXUD� SkQ] �� vQV � HIHFWXO� GH� ULSV� sH� RE LQH� Srin IRORVLUHD�XQRU�ILUH�PDL�JURDVH�vQ�E W WXU �VDX�vQ�XU]HDO ��vQ�IXQF LH�GH�HIHFWXO�XUP ULW�

Figura nr. 8 - Rips longitudinal R 4/2; Rips 2/1

/HJ WXUD� SDQDPD (figura nr. 9) HVWH� WRW� R� OHJ WXU � GHULYDW � GLQ�OHJ WXUD�SkQ] �úL�VH�IRUPHD] �GLQWU-un JUXS�GH�GRX �VDX�PDL�PXOWH�ILUH�GH�XU]HDO ,� FDUH� OHDJ � SHVWH� úL� VXE� GRX � VDX� PDL� PXOWH� ILUH� GH� E W WXU � iar XUP WRUXO� JUXS� GH� ILUH� OHDJ � LQYHUV� ID � GH� FHO� SUHFHGHQW�� /D� IHO� FD� úL��OHJ WXUD� ULSV�� OHJ WXUD� SDQDPD� SRDWH� IL� cu aspect regulat sau cu aspect neregulat, caz în care trei fire de urzeal � OHDJ � SHVWH� úL� VXE� GRX � ILUH� GH�E W WXU ��LDU�XUP WRUXO�JUXS�OHDJ �LQYHUV�ID �GH�FHO�DQWHULRU�

Figura nr. 9 - Panama cu aspect neregulat, R 6/4; Panama 3/2

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/HJ WXULOH�FRPELQDWH�VXQW�FHOH�RE LQXWH�Srin combinarea D�GRX �VDX�D�PDL�PXOWRU�OHJ WXUL�IXQGDPHntale úL derivate��RE LQkQGX-se diferite efecte: carouri, dungi transversale, oblice, longitudinale, figuri complexe (în cazul OHJ WXULL�MDFTXDUG��HWF�

&HOH�PDL�PXOWH�GLQWUH� HV WXUL�VXQW�DOF WXLWH�GLQtr-R�VLQJXU urzHDO �úL�R� VLQJXU � E W WXU � úL� SRDUW � numele de HV WXUL� VLPSOH, spre deosebire de HV WXULOH� FRPSXVH� FDUH� VXQW� DOF WXLWH� GLQ� GRX � VDX�PDL�PXOWH� XU]HOL� úL� R�VLQJXU � E W WXU � VDX� LQYHUV�� GLQ� GRX � VDX�PDL�PXOWH� E W WXUL� úL� R� VLQJXU �XU]HDO �� HV WXUL�ODQFLDWH��ULSV�SHQWUX�PRELO �HWF��.

$úD�FXP�UH]XOW �GLQ�U ]ERLXO�GH� HVXW�� HV WXULOH�VXQW�QXPLWH� HV WXUL�crude. În marea lor majoritate,�HOH�VXQW�VXSXVH�XOWHULRU�XQRU�RSHUD LL�GLIHULWH�GH� ILQLVDUH�� FDUH� DX� GUHSW� URO� vPEXQ W LUHD� QX� QXPDL� D� DVSHFtului estetic � HV WXULOH� FUXGH� FRQ LQ�R� VHULH� GH� LPSXULW L� QDWXUDOH�� FHUXUL�� JU VLPL� HWF���iPSXULW L�GLQ�SURFHVXO� HVHULL�úL�DO�PDQLSXO ULL���GDU�úL�D�FDUDFWHULVWLFLORU�GH�calitate de ansamblu: durabilitate, caracteristici igienico-sanitare etc.

2SHUD Lile de finisare� GLIHU � DWkW� vQ� IXQF LH� GH� QDWXUD� ILUelor care DOF WXLHVF� HV WXUD�FkW�úL�vQ�IXQF LH�GH�GHVWLQD LD� HV WXULL�UHVSHFWLYH�

ÌQ� FDGUXO� RSHUD LLORU� VH� ILQLVDUH� VXQW� LQFOXVH�� DOELUHD�� YRSVLUHD��imprimarea, apretarea, ignifugarea etc.

Anterior albirii propriu-]LVH�� HV WXULOH� VXQW� VXSXVH� RSHUD LLORU� GH�SkUOLUH��GHVFOHLHUH��ILHUEHUH��VS ODUH�úL�FO WLUH�

Pârlirea HV WXULORU� FUXGH� HVWH� LPSXV � GH� SUH]HQ D� SH� VXSUDIH HOH�HV WXULORU� D� XQXL� VWUDW� QHUHJXODW� úL pufos, compus din capete de fire, care

poate vPSLHGLFD� S WUXQGHUHD� XQLIRUP � D� VXEVWDQ HORU� IRORVLWH� OD� GLIHULWH�tratamente ulterioare.

Descleierea UHSUH]LQW � RSHUD LD� GH� vQGHS UWDUH� D� DSUHWXOXL� IRORVLW� OD�vQFOHLHUHD� XU]HOLL� vQDLQWH� GH� HVHUH�� GDU� úL� D� XQHL� S U L� GLQ� LPSXULW LOH�naturale ale fibrelor��FHUXUL��JU VLPL�HWF�

Fierberea� XUPHD] � RSHUD LHL� GH� GHVFOHLHUH� �SULQ� FDUH� VH� vQO WXU �numai 50-���� GLQWUH� LPSXULW LOH� H[LVWHQWH� vQ� HV WXUL�� úL� XUP UHúWH�HOLPLQDUHD�WXWXURU�LPSXULW LORU�UHPDQHQWH.

6S ODUHD HV WXULORU�DUH�GUHSW�VFRS�vQGHS UWDUHD�WXWXURr FHUXULORU�úL�D�JU VLPLORU�GLQ� HV WXUL�

$OELUHD� HV WXULORU� XUP UHúWH� GHFRORUDUHD� SULQ� R[LGDUH� VDX� SULQ�UHGXFHUH�D�SLJPHQ LORU�úL�D�UHVWXOXL�GH�LPSXULW L�FH�QX�DX�SXWXW�IL�HOLPLQDWH�SULQ� RSHUD LLOH� SUHJ WLWRDUH� DOELULL�� 3HQWUX� DOELUHD� HV WXULORU� VH� IROosesc VXEVWDQ H�GLIHULWH� vQ�IXQF LH�GH�QDWXUD�ILUHORU��SHQWUX� HV WXULOH�GLQ�EXPEDF sH�IRORVHVF��KLSRFORULW�GH�VRGLX��DS �R[LJHQDW ��SHUR[LG�GH�VRGLX��SHUVXOID L�etc., LDU�SHQWUX�P ULUHD�JUDGXOXL�GH�DOE VH�SUDFWLF �azurarea �DOE VWULUHD�FX�VFUREHDO �VDX�FX un colorant albastru) sau�DOELUHD�RSWLF (produsele albite se WUDWHD] � FX� VXEVWDQ H� IOXRUHVFHQWH,� FDUH� UH LQ� UDGLD LLOH� XOWUDYLROHWH� úL� OH�

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Merceologie

WUDQVIURP �vQ�UDGLD LL�YL]LELOH�DOEDVWUH�; SHQWUX� HV WXULOH�GH�LQ�úL�FkQHS se LQH� FRQW� GH� VHQVLELOLWDWHD� DFHVWRUD� ID � GH� DFL]L�� DOFDOLL� úL� R[LGDQ L�� IDSW�

pentru care DOELUHD�FX�KLSRFORULW� HVWH� UHDOL]DW �FX�PRGHUD LH�� HV WXULOH�GLQ�fibre chimice (viscoza, cupro, acetat) de obicei nu sunt supuse albirii, firele FRPSRQHQWH�DYkQG�XQ�JUDG�GH�DOE� ULGLFDW�� vQV , atunci când se impune, se IRORVHVF�DFHOHDúL�SURFHGHH�FD� úL� vQ�FD]XO� HV WXULORU�GLQ�EXPEDF� HV WXULOH�GLQ� OkQ VXQW� DOELWH� vQ� FD]XO� vQ� FDUH� WUHEXLH� vQGHS UWDW � QXDQ D� J OEXL-FHQXúLH� D� OkQLL�� DS UXW � GXS � VS ODUH��$OELUHD� VH� IDFH� FX� DS � R[LJHQDW � úL�eventual cu hidroVXOILW� GH� VRGLX�� 6SHFLILF � OkQLL� HVWH� RSHUD LD� GH�carbonizare, prin care celuloza VH� WUDQVIRUP � vQ� KLGURFHOXOR] � IULDELO �� FH�SRDWH� IL� vQGHS UWDW �SULQ� VFXWXUDUH�� HV WXULOH�GH�P WDVH, anterior albirii cu DS � R[LJHQDW �� VXQW� VXSXVH� GHJRP ULL� �VROXELOL]DUea la cald a sericinei, în VROX LL�GLOXDWH�GH�DOFDOLL�úL�DFL]L���P WDVHD�GHYHQLQG�DVWIHO�PDL�PRDOH��VXSO �úL� SO FXW �� HV WXULOH� GLQ� ILEUH� VLQWHWLFH VH� DOEHVF� UDU� úL� DWXQFL� FX� FORUL L� úL�SULQ�DOELUH�RSWLF �

0HUFHUL]DUHD� HV WXULORU� GLQ� EXPEDF� HVWH� RSHUD LD� HIHFWXDW � vQ�VFRSXO� FRQIHULULL� HV WXULORU� GH� EXPEDF� DWkW� D� XQXL� OXFLX� VXSHULRU�� FkW� úL� D�P ULULL� DILQLW LL� ID � GH� FRORUDQ L�� HV WXULOH� UHDOL]DWH� GLQ� ILUH� VXE LUL� GH�bumbac, puternic torsionate,�VXQW�WUDWDWH�FX�R�VROX LH�UHFH�úL�FRQFHQWUDW �GH�NaOH, ob LQkQGX-VH�R� HV WXU �PDL�GXUDELO ��PDL�UH]LVWHQW �OD�WUDF LXQH��FX�R�DOXQJLUH� OD� UXSHUH� PDL� UHGXV �� FX� XQ� DVSHFW� PDL� FRPSDFW� úL� un WXúHX�P W VRV.

Vopsirea� DUH� ORF�SULQ� WUHFHUHD�FRORUDQ LORU��DIOD L� vQ� VWDUH�GH�VROX LH�DSRDV ��PDi� vQWkL�SH� VXSUDID D� ILEUHORU� úL�apoi în interiorul lor, intensitatea FXORULL�ILLQG�FX�DWkW�PDL�PDUH�FX�FkW�SHULRDGD�GH�FRQWDFW�FUHúWH, iar baia de YRSVLUH� vúL� UHGXFH� FRQFHQWUD LD� vQ� FRORUDQW�� 1DWXUD� ILUHORU� HV WXULL�LQIOXHQ HD] � WLSXO� GH� FRORUDQW� XWLOL]DW�� SUHFXP� úL� SURFHGHXO� GH� Folorare. &RORUDQ LL� XWLOL]D L� VXQW� DSURDSH� vQ� WRWDOLWDWH� VLQWHWLFL�� &X� FkW� WHPSHUDWXUD�VROX LHL�GH�YRSVLUH�FUHúWH��GHS úLQG�����&��FX�DWkW�GLIX]LXQHD�FRORUDQWXOXL�úL�SXWHUHD� GH� S WUXQGHUH� VXQW� PDL� PDUL,� LDU� GXUDWD� YRSVLULL� HVWH� PDL� UHGXV ��culoarea este maL�XQLIRUP ��úL�PDL�UH]LVWHQW ��Anterior vopsirii propriu-zise, DX� ORF� R� VHULH� GH� RSHUD LL� SUHOLPLQDUH� úL� DQXPH�� SUHJ WLUHD� HV WXULORU��SUHJ WLUHD�IORWHL�úL�D�DGDRVXULORU��9RSVLUHD��OD�IHO�FD�úL�LPSULPDUHD, se poate realiza prin:

9 IRORVLUHD�GH�FRORUDQ L�FX�afinitate pentru fibrele textile; 9 IRORVLUHD�XQRU�LQWHUPHGLDUL�FDUH�FRQGXF�OD�IRUPDUHD�FRORUDQ LORU�SH�

fibre; 9 DSOLFDUHD�XQRU�SLJPHQ L�SH� HV WXUL��SULQ�LQWHUPHGLXO�OLDQ LORU�

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

Ca metode de vopsire se pot aplica: vopsirea într-o siQJXU �IORW ��vQ�GRX �IORWH�úi vopsirea prin procedeul termosol19.

Imprimarea� UHSUH]LQW �SURFHVXO�GH�DSOLFDUH�D�XQRU�SDVWH�FRORUDWH� vQ�GLIHULWH� FRQWXUXUL��FX�DMXWRUXO�XQRU� FOLúHH�� 3URFHGHHOH� GH� LPSULPDUH� SRW� IL��LPSULPDUH� GLUHFW - desenul, realizat în una sau mai multe culori, se tranVIHU � SH� XQ� IRQG� DOE� VDX� GHVFKLV� OD� FXORDUH�� cu ajutorul unui cilindru imprimator; serigrafie; imprimare cu rezerve –�SH�DQXPLWH�]RQH�DOH� HV WXULL�VH�DSOLF �VXEVWDQ H�FDUH�vPSLHGLF �YRSVLUHD�ORFDO ��UHVWXO�]RQHORU�QHDFRSHULWH�ILLQG� H[SXVH� IL[ ULL� FRORUDQWului; imprimare prin corodare – în conturul GHVHQHORU�VH�DSOLF �SDVWH�FH�FRURGHD] �FXORDUHD� HV WXULORU��'XS �LPSULPDUH��HV WXUD� HVWH� XVFDW � úL� DEXULW � SHQWUX� IOXLGL]DUHD� SDVWHL� úL� D� IL[ ULL�

colorantului pe fibre. Apretarea VH�DSOLF �vQ�IXQF LH�GH�DQXPLWH caracteristici ce se doresc a

IL� LPSULPDWH� HV WXULORU�� Astfel, apretul poate fi: de SOLQ WDWH (pentru a FRQIHUL� R� PDV � úL� XQ� OXFLX� P ULW� HV WXULORU��� GH� QHúLIRQDELOLWDWH; pentru hidrofugare ( HV WXULOH�GHYLQ�LPSHUPHDELOH�OD�DS ��vQV �U PkQ�SHUPHDELOH�OD DHU�úL�JD]H���pentru impermeabilizare � HV WXULOH�GHYLQ�LPSHUPHDELOH�OD�DS ��YDSRUL�úL�DHU���SHQWUX�UH]LVWHQ �OD�SXWUH]LUH, pentru ignifugare etc.

Tratamentele antistatizante VXQW� DSOLFDWH� XQRU� HV WXUL� GLQ� ILEUH�VLQWHWLFH� FDUH� DX� WHQGLQ D� GH� D� VH� vQF UFD� FX� VDUFLQL� HOHFWURVWDWLFH� úL� GH� D�DWUDJH�úL�UH LQH�LPSXULW LOH�

Piuarea�HVWH�WUDWDPHQWXO�GH�ILQLVDUH�D� HV WXULORU�GLQ�OvQ , prin care se vPEXQ W HúWH� FDSDFLWDWHD� WHUPRL]RODWRDUH� úL�PROLFLXQHD� (D� VH� ED]HD] � SH�proprietatea de împâslire a lânii datorat � VWUXFWXULL� VRO]RDVH�D� ILEUHORU, sub DF LXQHD�F OGXULL�úL�D�XPH]HOLL��SLXDUHD�VH�UHDOL]HD] �OD�FirFD����&��vQ�VROX LL�alcaline), vQ�XUPD�XQRU�RSHUD LL�GH�IUHFDUH�úL�SUHVDUH.

2SHUD LLOH� GH� VWDELOL]DUH� GLPHQVLRQDO �� VDPIRUL]DUHD�� GHFDWDUHD��fierberea etc. sH� HIHFWXHD] � SHQWUX� D� VH� HOLPLQD� ULVFXO� PRGLILF ULL�GLPHQVLXQLORU� HV WXULORU�� Samforizarea� HVWH� RSHUD LD� GH� VFXUWDUH� IRU DW � D�HV WXULORU� GLQ� EXPEDF�� vQ� VFRSXO� HOLPLQ ULL� WHQGLQ HL� DFHVWRUD� GH� D� VH�FRQWUDFWD� OD� VS ODUH� úL� F OFDUH. Decatarea� HVWH� RSHUD LD� GH� vQO WXUDUH� D�WHQGLQ HL�GH�VFXUWDUH�D� HV WXULORU�GLQ�OkQ ��P WDVH�úL�YLVFR]D�SULQ�DQLKLODUHD�tensiunilor din fibre, iar fierberea VH�DSOLF � HV WXULORU�GLQ� OkQ �SLHSW QDW ��FDUH� VXQW� IL[DWH� GLPHQVLRQDO� FX� DMXWRUXO� DSHL� ILHUELQ L� úL� Dl aburului, reducându-VH� SRVLELOLWDWHD� GH� vPSkVOLUH� úL� GH� IRUPDUH� D� FXWHORU� vQ� WLPSXO�SXUW rii.

Impregnarea contra microorganismelor VH� UHDOL]HD] � vQ� E LOH� GH�FO WLUH� XOWHULRDU � YRSVLULL� úL� LPSULP ULL�� SULQ� DG XJDUHD� XQRU� VXEVWDQ H�

19 Deculescu C.; Fleischer H.; Hedwig R. – ¥ ¦�§�¨�©�ª « ¬�¨2­`®�¦�« ¨�©(¯�° ¦�° ±'²�¨�®�² ®�± « ©.¨�° ³ ¬�¨�§�®�³ ´�¦ µ`¶&·�¸ ¹ º�» ¼#½&¾�¿�À�¸ Á µÂ º�Á�º�» ¾�à ¹ ¸ , 1963, pag. 5-13;

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Merceologie

chimice cu efect, în principal, antimolii, dar care trebuie V � QX� ILH� WR[LFH�pentru om20.

Ultimele�RSHUD LL�GH�ILQLVDUH�VXQW�FHOH�IL]LFR-mecanice�úL�VH�UHIHU �OD�XUP WRDUHOH�WUDWDPHQWH�

6F PRúDUHD�HVWH�RSHUD LD�GH�VFRDWHUH�D�FDSHWHORU�GH�ILEUH�GLQ�ILUH�úL�GH�RE LQHUH�D�XQHL�VXSUDIH H�SXIRDVH��PRL��SH�XQD�VDX�SH�DPEHOH�IH H�DOH�XQHL�HV WXUL�úL�FX�R�FDSDFLWDWH�WHUPRL]RODWRDUH�FUHVFXW �

Aburirea FRQIHU � HV WXULORU� PROLFLXQH�� SODVWLFLWDWH�� RULHQWDUHD�SXIXOXL�úL�XQ�OXFLX�SO FXW�

$OWH�RSHUD LL�PDL�SRW�IL��umezirea��F OFDUHa, plisarea, gofrarea etc. În ulWLPXO� WLPS� DX� DS UXW� R� VHULH� GH� DOWH� WUDWDPHQWH� DSOLFDWH�

HV WXULORU�� WUDWDPHQWH� FKLPLFH�� SHQWUX�D� VH� FRQIHUL� HV WXULORU� UH]LVWHQ H� OD�S WDUH� FX� GLIHULWH� VXEVWDQ H�� XOHLXUL�� YLQXUL� HWF��� SUHFXP� úL� WUDWDPHQWH�PHFDQLFH� vQ� YHGHUHD� FUHúWHULL� UH]LVWHQ HL�PHFDQLFH� D� HV WXULORU�� FXP� DU� IL�SUHVDUHD�GXUDELO �VDX�SHUPDQHQW �

'XS �IDEULFDUH,� HV WXULOe�VXQW�VXSXVH�XQHL�YHULILF UL�FDOLWDWLYH�ILQDOH úL�FX�DFHDVW ocazie se pot descoperi o serie de defecte, printre care amintim:

� defecte datorate firelor: fire neuniforme, cu nopeuri, cu bucle, cu FkUFHL��PXUGDUH�VDX�S WDWH��JURDVH�VDX�GXEOH��GH�UH]LVWHQ �PLF �HWF��

� GHIHFWH� GDWRUDWH� HVHULL�� OLSVD� XQXL� ILU� GH� XU]HDO � VDX� GH� E W WXU ��]RQH�vQGHVDWH�VDX�U ULWH��GXQJL�RUL]RQWDOH�VDX�YHUWLFDOH��GHVHQXO�GH�OHJ WXU �deplasat etc.;

� GHIHFWH� GDWRUDWH� RSHUD LLORU� GH� ILQLVDUH�� pete de la albire, pârlire H[FHVLY �VDX�LQFRPSOHW ��YRSVLUH�LQFRPSOHW ��GXQJL�GH�OD�YRSVLUH��GHSODVDUHD�desenului imprimat, pete de colorant de la imprimare, deformarea desenului, PDUJLQH� UXSW �� O LPH� QHXQLIRUP �� VF PRúDUH� JUHúLW � VDX� VXSUDVF PRúDUH�etc.

������9HULILFDUHD�FDOLW LL� HV WXULORU

'HWHUPLQDUHD� FDOLW LL� UHDOH� a HV WXULORU presupune verificarea

SULQFLSDOHORU� FDUDFWHULVWLFL� GH� FDOLWDWH� DOH� DFHVWRUD� úL� DQXPH�� caracteristici fizico-mecanice: grosiPHD��GHVLPHD�vQ�XU]HDO �úL�vQ�E W WXU ��O LPHD��PDVD�VSHFLILF �� VDUFLQD� GH� UXSHUH� úL� DOXQJLUHD� OD� UXSHUH�� UH]LVWHQ D� OD� IUHFDUH��UH]LVWHQ D� OD� VIkúLHUH�� VFXUWDUHD� ILUHORU� vQ� HV WXU �� UH]LVWHQ D� OD� SOHVQLUH, IOH[LELOLWDWHD�� QHúLIRQDELOLWDWHD� HWF�� caracteristici tehnologice: aspectul exterior, draparea,�FRQWUDF LD��UH]LVWHQ D�OD�GHSODVDUH�D�ILUHORU�vQ� HV WXU úL�

20 Prodea V. – Ä�²�« ®�¨�° ²�³ ®d¦�® ®�±�©�« ®.µ.¶�·�¸ ¹ º�» ¼0½e¾�¿�À�¸ Á µ  º�Á�º�» ¾�Ã)¹ ¸ , 1989, pag. 100-101;

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

caracteristici igienico-sanitare: DEVRUE LD�úL�FHGDUHD�XPLGLW LL��FDSDFLWDWHD�de�vPELEDUH�D� HV WXULORU��SHUPHDEilitatea la aer úL gaze etc.

GroVLPHD� HV WXULORU FDUDFWHUL]HD] � FDSDFLWDWHD� GH� GUDSDUH� úL� GH�IRUPDUH�D�FXWHORU�XQHL� HV WXUL��LQIOXHQ HD] �SURSULHW LOH�GH�WHUPRL]RODUH�úL�SUH]LQW � LQWHUHV� vQ�SURFHVXO�GH�FRQIHF LRQDUH�D�RELHFWHORU�GH� vPEU F PLQWH��*URVLPHD� HV WXULORU�YDULD] �vQWUH�GRX �úL�WUHL�GLDPHWUH�DOH�ILUHORU�XWLOL]DWH�úL�GHSLQGH�QX�QXPDL�GH�QDWXUD�ILEURDV �D�ILUHORU�úL�GH�WRUVLXQHD�DFHVWRUD��ci�úL�GH�WLSXO�GH�OHJ WXU �Dl� HV WXULL�úL�GH�GHVLPHD�vQ�XU]HDO �úL�vQ�E W WXU �

*URVLPHD� YDULD] � GH� OD� ���PP� OD� �� PP�� HV WXULOH� VXE LUL� DYknd capacitatea de a forma cute libere, bine conturate, pe când cele groase IRUPHD] � GRDU� FRQWXUXUL� JHQHUDOH� *URVLPHD� HV WXULORU� VH� GHWHUPLQ � FX�micrometrul.

'HVLPHD� HV WXULORU�HVWH�GDW �GH�QXP UXO�GH�ILUH�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�úL�D�E W WXULL�H[LVWHQWH�vQWr-R�SRU LXQH�GH����FP��Ea depinde de tipul firelor, al OHJ WXULL� HV WXULL�úL�GH�WUDWDPHQWHOH�GH�ILQLVDUH�úL�LQIOXHQ HD] �vQ�PRG�GLUHFW�PDVD� HV WXULL�� UH]LVWHQ D� úL� DOXQJLUHD� OD� UXSHUH�� PROLFLXQHD�� UH]LVWHQ D� OD�frecare�� FRQWUDF LD� OD� XPH]LUH�� SHUPHDELOLWDWHD� OD� DS � úL� JD]H� HWF��FX� FkW� R�HV WXU �HVWH�PDL�GHDV ��cu atât HD�HVWH�PDL�UH]LVWHQW �úL�PDL�GXUDELO ��VSUH�

deosebire�GH�R� HV WXU �PDL�SX LQ�GHDV ��FDUH�YD�IL�PRDOH��XúRDU �úL�PDL�SX LQ�UH]LVWHQW ��

'HVLPHD� HV WXULORU� VH� GHWHUPLQ � SULQ� metoda extragerii firelor dintr-R�SRU LXQH�GH�PDWHULDO�GH���FP�úL�QXP UDUHD�ORU�DWkW�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�FkW�úL�D�E W WXULL��XUPkQG�FD�UH]XOWDWXO�V �ILH�DSRL�vQPXO LW cu 10�VH�IRORVHúWH�OD� HV WXULOH� IRDUWH� GHVH� VDX� GLQ� VWUDWXUL� VXSUDSXVH� sau prin QXP UDUHD�firelor din raport, cu ochiul liber sau cu ajutorul unei lupe, urmând ca acesta V �ILH�vQPXO LW�FX�QXP UXO�GH�UDSRUWuri�FH�VH�vQFDGUHD] �vQ�VXSUDID D�GH�����cm2.

,QGLFHOH� GHVLPLL� UHODWLYH� VH� FDOFXOHD] � VHSDUDW� SHQWUX� XU]HDO � úL�SHQWUX�E W WXU �úL�HVWH�GDW�GH�UHOD LD:

E = Nmx C

S x 100, în care:

E = indicele desimii relative, în %; S = QXP UXO�GH�ILUH�SH����FP� C = FRHILFLHQW� HJDO� FX� ��� SHQWUX� HV WXULOH� GLQ� OkQ � úL� ��� SHQWUX�

UHVWXO� HV WXULORU� 1P� �ILQH HD�ILUHORU� Din acest punct de vedere DO�GHVLPLL�UHODWLYH�� HV WXULOH�IRDUWH�XúRDUH�

au un indice de 30-����� HV Wurile mai dese, pentru rochii: 45-56%, pentru

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Merceologie

F P úL��50-60%, pentru costume din bumbac: 65-80%, pentru costume din OkQ ��100-110%, iar pentru paltoane 100-140%.

/ LPHD� HV WXULORU� VH� GHWHUPLQ � FX� FHQWLPHWUXO� úL� LQIOXHQ HD] �SRVLELOLW LOH�GH�FURLUH� D�PDWHULDOXOXL� úL� GH�DúH]DUH� D� WLSDUHORU�� În industria WH[WLO � VH� SURGXF� HV WXUL� FX� XUP WRDUHOH� O LPL�� vQWUH� ��-��� FP� �O LPH�PLF �����-����FP��O LPH�PHGLH��úL����-����FP��O LPH�PDUH).

0DVD� HV WXULORU� VH� GHWHUPLQ �SULQ�FkQW ULUHD� XQXL�metru� S WUDW de HV WXU � VDX�D�XQXL�PHWUX� OLQLDU�� OD�EDODQ D�DQDOLWLF ��0DVD�HVWH� LQIOXHQ DW �GLUHFW� GH� ILQH HD� ILUHORU�� GHVLPHD� úL� ILQLVDUHD� HV WXULL� úL� GH� FRQGL LLOH� GH�mediu, respectiv de umiditate.7RFPDL�GH�DFHHD��SUREHOH�WUHEXLH�FRQGL LRQDWH�vQ� DWPRVIHU � VWDQGDUG*� WLPS� GH� ��� K� vQDLQWHD� GHWHUPLQ ULL�� 3H� OkQJ �GHWHUPLQDUHD�PDVHL� HV WXULORU� vQ� VWDUH� FRQGL LRQDW �� VH� GHWHUPLQ � úL�PDVD�HV WXULORU� vQ� VWDUH� XVFDW �� OD� R� WHPSHUDWXU � GH� ���-����&�� SkQ � OD� PDV �FRQVWDQW �

'LQ� SXQFWXO� GH� YHGHUH� DO� PDVHL�� HV WXULOH� VH� vPSDUW� vQ�� HV WXUL�XúRDUH� �SHQWUX� DUWLFROH� GH� vPEU F PLQWH� SHQWUX� IHPHL� úL� FRSLL�� OHQMHULH��F P úL� HWF���� HV WXUL� PHGLL� �SHQWUX� FRVWXPH�� úL� HV WXUL� JUHOH (pentru paltoane). De exemplu, masa HV WXULORU�GH�EXPEDF�YDULD] �vQWUH����-350 g/ m2.

6DUFLQD� úL� DOXQJLUHD� OD� UXSHUH� sunt determinate cu ajutorul GLQDPRPHWUXOXL�� DWkW� SH� HSUXYHWH� XVFDWH� úL� FRQGL LRQDWH� FkW� úL� vQ� VWDUH�XPHG �

Sarcina de rupere� HVWH� GDW � GH� IRU D� VXE� DF LXQHD� F UHLD� are loc ruperea unei epruvete de un anumit forPDW� úL� SUH]LQW � LPSRUWDQ � vQ�DSUHFLHUHD�GXUDELOLW LL XQHL� HV WXUL��Sarcina de rupere depinde de calitatea ILEUHORU�úL�D�ILUHORU��GH�GHVLPHD� HV WXULL��FX�FkW�GHVLPHD�HVWH�PDL�PDUH��FX�DWkW�VDUFLQD�GH�UXSHUH�YD�FUHúWH���GH�WLSXO�GH�OHJ WXU ��VDUFLQD�GH�UXSHUH�YD�IL�PDL� PDUH� OD� HV WXULOH� FX� OHJ WXU � SkQ] � VDX� GLDJRQDO�� VSUH� Geosebire de HV WXULOH�FX�OHJ WXU �DWOD]�VDX�VDWLQ��úL�GH� WUDWDPHQWHOH�GH�ILQLVDUH�DSOLFDWH�HV WXULL� UHVSHFWLYH� �DOELUHD�� SLXDUHD� HWF�� FRQGXF� OD� reducerea sarcinii de

rupere,�LDU�PHUFHUL]DUHD��DSUHWDUHD��SUHVDUHD�HWF�FRQGXF�OD�FUHúWHUHD�VDUFLQLL�de rupere).

$OXQJLUHD� UHODWLY � OD� UXSHUH� UHSUH]LQW � UDSRUWXO� SURFHQWXDO� GLQWUH�DOXQJLUHD� DEVROXW � SH� FDUH� D� VXIHULW-R� HV WXUD� vQ� PRPHQWXO� UXSHULL� úL�lungiPHD�HL�LQL LDO �

/D� IHO� FD� úL� vQ� FD]XO� ILUHORU�� HSUXYHWD�� GH� GLPHQVLXQL� VWDQGDUGL]DWH��FRQGL LRQDW � úL� SUHWHQVLRQDW � �VDUFLQD� GH� SUHWHQVLRQDUH�GLIHU � vQ� IXQF LH� GH�PDVD� HV WXULL��� HVWH� SULQV � vQ� FHOH� GRX � FODPH� DOH� GLQDPRPHWUXOXL�� FHD�VXSHULRDU �ILLQG�IL[ ��LDU�FHD�LQIHULRDU PRELO ��ILLQG�FOHPD�GH�DF LRQDUH�FDUH�

* ¼�¹ Å�Æ�Ç)È ¾�» ¼(Ç ¹ ¼�À�·�¼�» ·�Ç)¾2» ¾�È ¾�» É ¼0Æ0¹ ¾�Å�Ê�¾�» ¼�¹ º�» ·�¾dË�Ì�Í�Ë�Î Ï,Ã�¸�É ¼(Æ0º�Åи ·�¸ ¹ ¼�¹ ¾2» ¾.É ¼�¹ ¸ Ñ ¼2¼�¾�» º�É º�¸�·�¾2Ò�Ó.ÍeÓ�Ô#Õ

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VH�PLúF � vQ�GLUHF LD� VDUFLQLL�DSOLFDWH��Dinamometrul este astfel reglat încât UXSHUHD�V �DLE �ORF�vQ�Firca 30 de secunde,�LDU�VDUFLQD�GH�UXSHUH��H[SULPDW �vQ�NJI��VH�FLWHúWH�SH�VFDOD�DSDUDWXOXL�

DXS �GHWHUPLQDUHD� VDUFLQLL�GH� UXSHUH�� VH�SRDWH� FDOFXOD� úL� UH]LVWHQ D�VSHFLILF �� ��FX�DMXWRUXO�XUP WRDUHL�IRUPXOH�

= AP , în care:

� �UH]LVWHQ D�VSHFLILF ��vQ�NJI�FP2; P = sarcina de rupere, în kgf; $� �VXSUDID D�HSUXYHWHL��vQ�FP2. AlXQJLUHD� DEVROXW � OD� UXSHUH LQIOXHQ HD] � PROLFLXQHD�� vQGRLUHD� úL�

SURSULHW LOH� SODsWLFH� DOH� HV WXULORU� úL� UHSUH]LQW � GLIHUHQ D� GLQWUH� OXQJLPHD�HSUXYHWHL� vQ� PRPHQWXO� UXSHULL� úL� OXQJLPHD� LQL LDO � D� HSUXYHWHL� VXSXV �GHWHUPLQ ULL��

/max = Lmax – L0, în care:

Lmax� �DOXQJLUHD�DEVROXW �OD�UXSHUH��vQ�PP� Lmax = lungimea epruvetei în momentul ruperii, în mm; L0 �OXQJLPHD�LQL LDO �D�HSUXYHWHL��vQ�PP�

$OXQJLUHD�UHODWLY �OD�UXSHUH�HVWH�GDW �GH�UHOD LD�

max = LomaxL' x 100, în care:

max = alungirea�UHODWLY �OD�UXSHUH��vQ��� Lmax� �DOXQJLUHD�DEVROXW �OD�UXSHUH��vQ�PP�

L0 �OXQJLPHD�LQL LDO �D�HSUXYHWHL��vQ�PP�

$WkW�DOXQJLUHD�DEVROXW �FkW�úL�FHD�UHODWLY �VH�SRW�FDOFXOD�QX�QXPDL�vQ�PRPHQWXO� UXSHULL�� FL� úL� SHQWUX� RULFH� YDORDUH� D� IRU HL� FH� DF LRQHD] � DVXSUD�HSUXYHWHL��SkQ �vQ�PRPHQWXO�UXSHULL�

$PEHOH�GHWHUPLQ UL��DWkW�VDUFLQD�GH�UXSHUH��FkW�úL�DOXQJLUHD�OD�UXSHUH��VH� HIHFWXHD] � SH� HSUXYHWH� GHFXSDWH� DWkW� SH� GLUHF LD� XU]HOLL� FkW� úL� SH� FHD� D�E W WXULL��UH]XOWDWXO�ILQDO�ILLQG�H[SULPDW�Fa medie a mai mXOWRU�GHWHUPLQ UL�

ÌQ�FD]XO�vQ�FDUH� HV WXUD�HVWH�IRUPDW �GLQ�GRX �VDX�PDL�PXOWH�VLVWHPH�GH�ILUH��VH�SRW� vQUHJLVWUD�GRX �VDX�PDL�PXOWH�YDORUL�PD[LPH�DOH�VDUFLQLL�GH�UXSHUH��FD]�vQ�FDUH�VH�FRQVLGHU �FD�VDUFLQ �GH�UXSHUH�SULPD�YDORDUH�PD[LP �vQUHJLVWUDW �

DeWHUPLQDUHD� UH]LVWHQ HL� OD� DOXQHFDUH� D� ILUHORU� vQ� HV WXU ca XUPDUH�D�VROLFLW ULL� OD�WUDF LXQH�VH�UHDOL]HD] �DWkW�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�FkW�úL�D�

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Merceologie

E W WXULL�� 'HSODVDUHD� ILUHORU� LQIOXHQ HD] � SURSULHW LOH� GH� FRDVHUH� úL� GH�durabilitate la purtare a obiectului de� vPEU F PLQWH� �vQ� OLSVD� UH]LVWHQ HL� OD�GHSODVDUH��ILUHOH�VH�GHVSULQG�úL�DVSHFWXO� HV WXULL�DUH�GH�VXIHULW��

$OXQHFDUHD�ILUHORU�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�UHSUH]LQW �GHSODVDUHD�ILUHORU�GH�E W WXU �SULQWUH�FHOH�GH�XU]HDO ��LDU�DOXQHFDUHD�SH�GLUHF LD�E W WXULL�UHSUH]LQW �GHSODVDUHD�ILUHORU�GH�XU]HDO �SULQWUH�FHOH�GH�E W WXU �

'HWHUPLQDUHD�VH�HIHFWXHD] �WRW�FX�DMXWRUXO�GLQDPRPHWUXOXL��FDUH�DUH�IL[DW� vQ� FOHPD� VXSHULRDU �� IL[ �� XQ� GLVSR]LWLY� FX� DFH� úL� FDUH� S WUXQGH� SULQ�HV WXU �OD�R�GLVWDQ �GH���PP�GH�FDS WXO�DFHVWHLD��&D�XUPDUH�D�VROLFLW ULL�OD�WUDF LXQH� D� HSUXYHWHL�� ILUHOH� VH� GHSODVHD] � SULQ� vPSLQJHUH� GH� F WUH� DFHOH�dispozitivului,� XUP ULQGX-se momentul DSDUL LHL� GHVWU P ULL� HSUXYHWHL� VDORDUHD�IRU HL�FDUH�SURYRDF �GHSODVDUHD�ILUHORU��UH]LVWHQ D�RSXV �GH�ILUH�OD�deplasare) VH�FLWHúWH pe cadranul dinamometrului, în kgf.

'HWHUPLQDUHD� UH]LVWHQ HL� OD� VIkúLHUH� VH� UHDOL]HD] tot cu ajutorul dinamometrului. Ea depinde de natura firelor (natura fibrelor componente, grad de torsiune etc.��� GH� GHVLPHD� HV WXULL� úL� GH� WUDWDPHQWHle de finisare, DYkQG� XQ� LPSRUWDQW� URO� WHKQRORJLF� vQ� SURFHVXO� GH� FRQIHF LRQDUH� D�vPEU F PLQWHL��(pruveta FRQGL LRQDW � VXSXV � vQFHUF ULL� SUH]LQW � R� DQXPLW �IRUP �� UHVSHFWLY� GRX � DULSLoare care se vor introduce în clamele dinamometrului sub un anumit unghi, XUP ULQGX-VH� IRU D� QHFHVDU � SHQWUX�VIkúLHUHD� HSUXYHWHL� SH� R� SRU LXQH� GH� R� DQXPLW � OXQJLPH� SUHVWDELOLW ��'HWHUPLQ ULOH�VH�YRU�HIHFWXD�SH�HSUXYHWH�GHFXSDWH�DWkW�vQ�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL��FkW�úL�D�E W WXULL�

5H]LVWHQ D� OD�VIkúLHUH�VH�YD�H[SULPD�FD�PHGLH�DULWPHWLF a valorilor PD[LPH�FLWLWH�SH�GLDJUDPD�GH�VIvúLHUH�úL�VH�H[SULP �vQ�NJI��GD1���

'HWHUPLQDUHD�UH]LVWHQ HL�OD�IOH[LRQDUH�D� HV WXULORU RIHU �LQIRUPD LL�FX�SULYLUH�OD�VXSOH HD�XQXL�PDWHULDO��OD�FDSDFLWDWHD�GH�PXODUH�úL�GH�GUDSDUH�D�HV WXULL�UHVSHFWLYH��

DrapDUHD�UHSUH]LQW �SURSULHWDWHD� HV WXULORU�GH�D�IRUPD�FXWHOH�GRULWH��aOH� F URU� IRUPH� úL� VWDELOLWDWH� GHSLQG� GH� SURSULHW LOH� ILEUHORU�� GH� VWUXFWXUD�HV WXULL�� GH� SURSULHW LOH� HL� PHFDQLFH� HWF� În general, materialele fine IRUPHD] �FXWH�PLFL,�LDU�FHOH�JURDVH�úi aspre, cute mari.

$FHDVW � FDUDFWHULVWLF � VH� GHWHUPLQ � FX� DMXWRUXO� XQHL� HSUXYHWH� FX� R�O LPH� GH� ��� PP�� XUP ULQGX-se determinarea OXQJLPLL� FDS WXOXL� OLEHU� DO�DFHVWHLD�� FDUH� IOH[HD] � VXE� SURSULD� JUHXWDWH�� SkQ � OD� DWLQJHUHD� XQXL� SODQ�vQFOLQDW�OD�������ID �GH�RUL]RQWDO �

5LJLGLWDWHD� HV WXULL�VH�FDOFXOHD] �VHSDUDW�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�úL�SH�FHD�D�E W WXULL��Oa ambele capete ale epruvetei, iar,�DWXQFL�FkQG� HV WXUD�SUH]LQW �finisaje diferite pe FHOH�GRX �IH H��ULJLGLWDWHD�VH�GHWHUPLQ �SHQWUX�DPEHOH�IH H�DOH� HV WXULL�

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

&DOFXOXO�ULJLGLW LL�VH�HIHFWXHD] �IRORVLQG�XUP WRDUHD�IRUPXO �

Ru = M (2

Lu)3, în care:

Ru �ULJLGLWDWHD�vQ�XU]HDO ��vQ�PJÂcm; 0� �PDVD� HV WXULL��vQ�PJ�FP2; Lu = lungimea por LXQLL� IOH[DWH� GLQ� HSUXYHWD� SH� GLUHF LD� XU]HOLL, ca

medie a GRX � GHWHUPLQ UL� �OD� DPEHOH� FDSHWH�� VDX� D� patru GHWHUPLQ UL��OD�DPEHOH�FDSHWH�úL�SH�FHOH�GRX �IH H���vQ�FP�

Rb = M (2

Lb)3, în care:

Rb =�ULJLGLWDWHD�vQ�E W WXU ��vQ�PJÂcm; 0� �PDVD� HV WXULL��vQ�PJ�FP2; Lb �OXQJLPHD�SRU LXQLL�IOH[DWH�GLQ�HSUXYHWD�SH�GLUHF LD�E W WXULL��FD�

medie a GRX � GHWHUPLQ UL� �OD� DPEHOH� FDSHWH�� VDX� D� patru GHWHUPLQ UL��OD�DPEHOH�FDSHWH�úL�SH�FHOH�GRX �IH H���vQ�FP�

RT = Rbx Ru , în care: RT = ULJLGLWDWHD� HV WXULL��vQ�PJÂcm; Ru = rigiditateD�vQ�XU]HDO , în mg·cm; Rb =�ULJLGLWDWHD�vQ�E W WXU ��vQ�PJÂcm21. Determinarea unghiului de revenire dLQ� úLIRQDUH� RIHU � LQIRUPD LL�

FX�SULYLUH�OD�FRPSRUWDUHD�OD�SXUWDUH�D� HV WXULORU��OD�FDSDFLWDWHD�GH�PHQ LQHUH�D� IRUPHL�� FXWHORU�� SOLXULORU� HWF�� úL� OD� SURSULHW LOH� GH� GHIRUPDUH� SODVWLF � D�HV WXULORU�

'HWHUPLQDUHD� VH� IDFH�SH�HSUXYHWH� vQ� IRUP �VSHFLDO �GH�7��GHFXSDWH�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�úL�D�E W WXULL. Acestea se SOLD] �FX�SDUWHD�VXSHULRDU �SHVWH�FHD�LQIHULRDU úL�DVXSUD�ORU�VH�DSOLF � timp de 15 minute, o foU �GH�SUHVDUH�de 0,5 kgf/cm2��'XS �PD[LP���PLQXWH�GH�OD�vQGHS UWDUHD�IRU HL�GH�SUHVLXQH, VH�P VRDU �unghiul�GH�úLIRQDUH –� 1 úL�GLQ�QRX�VH�UHSHW �P VXUDUHD�XQJKLXOXL�GXS ����GH�PLQXWH�GH�OD�SULPD�GHWHUPLQDUH��RE LQkndu-se un 2.

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&DSDFLWDWHD� GH� vPELEDUH� D� HV WXULORU� UHIOHFW proprietatea de DEVRUE LH� D� HV WXULORU� úL HVWH� LQIOXHQ DW � GH� KLJURVFRSLFLWDWHD� ILEUHORU� GLQ�cDUH�VXQW�DOF WXLWH�ILUHOH��GH�GHVLPHD� HV WXULL�úL�GH�WUDWDPHQWHOH�GH�ILQLVDUH�

21 Ö Æ�À�¼.Ã'Á�º�Ö)× Õ.Ø ·�º�Á�¼�À�º�Ö)× Õ�Ù0¹ ¼�À�¼�Ç'¸ ¾2Ö)× Õ�Ú�Á�¿�¸ É ¾�» º�Ö)× – Û�Ü�Ý Þ�ß�Ü5à�á�Ý Ü�â�ã�á ä�á�ß�Üdå�æ�á ç?è.é'å�é�Üdà�á�ä�Þ�ã�Ý é�Þ�ê�å�ê�ä�å�ê á Ý á á)ë&é'Þ�ß�è.æ�Ü�ê Þ�éá ã�ß�è.æ'Ý é�á å�ê Ü�ì�í`å�á Ü�Ý�ß�Ü2ê å�î�Þ�é'å�Ý Þ�é�ë�Ü�ã�Ý é�è&ë&é�Þ�ß�è.æ'Ü�ê Ü2Ý Ü�ï�Ý á ê Ü2à�á�ß�Ü?ë`á Ü�ê é�á Ü.µ.ð&¸ ¹ Æ"Ù�× Ú7× ¶d× µ  º�Á�º�» ¾�à ¹ ¸ , 1989, pag.91-92;

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Merceologie

ale� DFHVWHLD�� (VWH� R� SURSULHWDWH� IRDUWH� LPSRUWDQW � PDL� DOHV� vQ� FD]XO� XQRU�anumite produse finite, cum ar�IL��SURVRDSH��FHDUúDIXUL��OHQMHULH�GH�FRUS�úL�GH�PDV ���EDWLVWH��F P úL�etc.

'HWHUPLQDUHD� VH� HIHFWXHD] � LQWURGXFkQG� HSUXYHWH� FX� R� PDV � GH� 0,2-0,3 g GLQ� HV WXUD�GH�YHULILFDW, timp de un minut, într-un anumit volum GH�OLFKLG��DIODW�OD�WHPSHUDWXUD�PHGLXOXL��3URED�VH�FkQW UHúWH�LPHGLDW�GXS �FH�HVWH�VFRDV �GLQ�OLFKLG��VH�VWRDUFH�SULQ�SUHVDUH�vQWUH�GRX �VWUDWXUL�GH�KkUWLH�GH�ILOWUX�úL�GLQ�QRX�VH�FkQW UHúWH��&DSDFLWDWHD�GH�vPELEDUH�FX�OLFKLG�D� HV WXULORU�HVWH�GDW �GH�UHOD LD�

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IDSW� R� VHULH� GH� YHULILF UL� SULQ� FDUH� HSUXYHWHOH� GH� HV WXUL� YRSVLWH� úL�VDX�imprimate sunt supuse la:� DF LXQHD� DSHL� FDOGH�� VS ODUH�� FXU LUH� FKLPLF ��WUDQVSLUD LH�� IUHFDUH� XPHG � úL� XVFDW �� F OFDUH�� WUDWDPHQW� WHUPLF� I U �presare, intemperii etc.

Determin ULOH� VH� ED]HD] � SH� DF LXQHD� GLYHUúLORU� DJHQ L� IL]LFL� úL�FKLPLFL� DVXSUD� YRSVLULORU� úL� LPSULP ULORU� HV WXULORU� úL� SH� HYDOXDUHD�UH]XOWDWHORU�FX�DMXWRUXO�VF ULL�GH�JUL�

'HWHUPLQDUHD� UH]LVWHQ HL� OD� DS � FDOG � VH� YHULILF � SHQWUX� HV WXULOH�GLQ�OkQ �VDX�vQ�DPHVWHF�FX�OkQ .

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Ulterior, epruveta FRPSXV � HVWH� LQWURGXV � vQWU-XQ� SDKDU� FX� DS �GLVWLODW � DFLGXODW �� OD� R� WHPSHUDWXU �de 70±2°C, unde este�PHQ LQXW � Firca ���GH�PLQXWH��'XS �vQGHS UWDUHD�DSHL��HSUXYHWHOH�VXQW�GHVFXVXWH, iar proba GH�DQDOL]DW�VH�XVXF �OD�R�WHPSHUDWXU �GH����&�

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FX� DMXWRUXO� VF ULL� GH� JUL�� XUP ULQGX-se contrastul care este identic cu FRQWUDVWXO�GLQWUH�FHOH�GRX �HSUXYHWH�GH� HV WXU �

3H� GH� DOW � SDUWH�� VH� DSUHFLa] � gradul de cedare a colorantului pe materialele nevopsite� WRW� SULQ� LQWHUPHGLXO� VF ULL� GH� JUL�� comparându-se contrastul identic DO� FHG ULL� GH� FRORUDQW� SH� SURED� QHYRSVLW � FX� FRQWUDVWXO�existent pe scara de gri.

5H]XOWDWXO� VH� H[SULP � SULQ� WUHL� FLIUH�� SULPD� VHPQLILF � JUDGXO� GH�PRGLILFDUH� D� FXORULL� SUREHL� DQDOL]DWH�� D� GRXD� VHPQLILF � JUDGXO� GH� FHGDUH�D�FXORULL� SH� PDWHULDOXO� QHYRSVLW� GH� DFHHDúL� QDWXU � ILEURDV , iar a treia FLIU �LQGLF �JUDGXO�GH�FHGDUH�D�YRSVLULL�VDX�LPSULP ULL�SH�PDWHULDOXO�QHYRSVLW�GH�R�DOW �FRPSR]L LH�ILEURDV ��SH�HSUXYHWD�GH�EXPEDF��

'HWHUPLQDUHD� UH]LVWHQ HL� YRSVLULORU� úL� LPSULP ULORU� OD� VS ODW XUPHD] � DFHHDúL� PHWRG � D� HSUXYHWHL� FRPSXVH�� FDUH� HVWH� LQWURGXV � vQWU-o VROX LH�DOFDOLQ ��WHPSHUDWXUD�VROX LHL�úL�WLPSXO�GH�DF LRQDUH�ILLQG�GHSHQGHQWe GH� QDWXUD� PDWHULDOXOXL�� 'XS � VS ODUH�� HSUXYHWD� VH� FO WHúWH� FX� DS � UHFH� GH�GRX � RUL�� DSRL� HVWH� O VDW � vQWU-XQ�FXUHQW� GH� DS � UHFH� WLPS� GH� ���PLQXWH� úL�F OFDW � OD� R� WHPSHUDWXU � GH� ���&�� $SUHFLHUHD� SH� ED]D� VF ULL� GH� JUL� VH�UHDOL]HD] �FD�úL în cazul determin ULL�UH]LVWHQ HL�OD�DS �FDOG .

'HWHUPLQDUHD� UH]LVWHQ HL� YRSVLULORU� úL� LPSULP ULORU� OD� WUDQVSLUD LH XUPHD] � DFHODúL� SULQFLSLX� GH� GHWHUPLQDUH� úL� GH� DSUHFLHUH� D� UH]XOWDWHORr, GLIHUHQ D� FRQVWkQG� vQ� IDSWXO� F � VH� UHDOL]HD] � GRX � HSUXYHWH� FRPSXVH�� XQD�ILLQG� LQWURGXV � vQWU-R� VROX LH� DOFDOLQ �� OD� R� WHPSHUDWXU �GH� �����&�� LDU�FHD�de-a doua, într-R�VROX LH�DFLG ��OD�DFHHDúL�WHPSHUDWXU ��XQGH�VH�PHQ LQ�Firca 30 de minute. Apoi, epruvHWHOH�VWRDUVH�VXQW�PHQ LQXWH�WLPS�GH�patru ore la o WHPSHUDWXU �GH������&�úL�XVFDWH�OD����&�

'HWHUPLQDUHD� UH]LVWHQ HL� YRSVLULORU� úL� LPSULP ULORU� OD� IUHFDUH se UHDOL]HD] � FX� DMXWRUXO� &URNPHWUXOXL� úL� VH� HIHFWXHD] � DVXSUD� HSUXYHWHORU�SUHOHYDWH�DWkW�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�FkW�úL�D�E W WXULL��'LQ�PDWHULDOXO�GH�DQDOL]DW�VH�SUHOHYHD] �HSUXYHWH�GH����[���PP�FDUH� VH� IL[HD] �SH�PDVD�DSDUDWXOXL, iar dintr-XQ� DOW�PDWHULDO�HWDORQ�� GLQ� SkQ] �DOELW �GH� EXPEDF�� VH� SUHOHYHD] �epruvete,� FDUH� VH� YRU� DWDúD� GH� SLHVD� FDUH� H[HFXW � IUHFDUHD� SULQ�PLúF UL� GH� du-WH�YLQR��'HWHUPLQDUHD�FRQVW �vQ�HIHFWXDUHD�D����FLFOXUL�GH�PLúF UL��VXE�R�VDUFLQ � GH� ���� JI�� DVXSUD� XQHL� VXSUDIH H� D� HSUXYHWHL� GH� DQDOL]DW� GH� Firca 2,5 cm2.

)UHFDUHD� VH� UHDOL]HD] � DWkW� vQ� VWDUH� XVFDW �� FkW� úL� vQ� VWDUH� XPHG �(pURED� GH� EXPEDF� DOELW� HVWH� XPH]LW � FX� DS � GLVWLODW � úL� DSRL� VWRDUV �� Aprecierea rezultatelor se face SULQ� LQWHUPHGLXO� VF ULL de gri,�XUP ULQGX-se FHGDUHD� GH� FRORUDQW� SH� SURED� DOELW � GH� EXPEDF� úL� DSUHFLHUHD� FRQWUDVWXOXL�FRUHVSXQ] WRU�QLYHOXOXL�GH�SH�VFDUD�Ge gri.

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Merceologie

'HWHUPLQDUHD� UH]LVWHQ HL� YRSVLULORU� úL� LPSULP ULORU� OD� F OFDW FRPSRUW � WUHL� vQFHUF UL�� OD� F OFDW� XVFDW�� OD� F OFDW� XPHG� úL� OD� F OFDW� FX�umezire.

/D� F OFDW� XVFDW�� SURED�GH�DQDOL]DW� VH� DúD] � SH� R� HV WXU � DOELW � GLQ�EXPEDF�úL�VH�FDOF �FX�ILHUXO�GH�F OFDW�WLPS�GH����PLQXWH��OD�R�WHPSHUDWXU �FDUH�GHSLQGH�GH�QDWXUD� HV WXULL�GH�DQDOL]DW��EXPEDF�úL�LQ��190-����&��OkQ ��P WDVH�úL�FHOXOR] ��140-160°C,�LDU�ILEUHOH�DFHWDW�úL�VLQWHWLFH��OD����-120°C).

/D� F OFDW� XPHG�� HSUXYHWD� GH� YHULILFDW� vPSUHXQ � FX� R� DOW � HSUXYHW �GLQ� SkQ] � DOELW � VH� LQWURGXF� vQ� DS � GLVWLODW � úL� DSRL� VH� VWRUF�� (SUXYHWD� GH�YHULILFDW� VH� DúD] � SH� R� HV WXU � DOELW �� LDU� GHDVXSUD� HL� VH� DúD] � FHDODOW �HSUXYHW �XPHG �GLQ�SkQ] �DOELW ��F OFDUHD�I FkQGX-se circa 15 minute, prin PLúF UL�GH�GX-te, vino.

/D�F OFDW�FX�XPH]LUH��SHVWH� HSUXYHWD�GH�DQDOL]DW��XVFDW �� VH�SXQH�R�SkQ] �GH�EXPEDF�XPH]LW �FX�DS �GLVWLODW ��F OFDUHD�I FkQGX-se ca la celelalte GHWHUPLQ UL�

$SUHFLHUHD�UH]XOWDWHORU�VH�IDFH�XUP ULQGX-se cedarea de colorant pe SkQ]D�DOELW �GH�ED] �úL�pe cea de acoperire�úL�prin compararea contrastului cu cel existent pe scara de gri, luându-VH� vQ� FRQVLGHUD LH� SkQ]D� SH� FDUH�contrastul este cel mai puternic.

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([LVW � PDL� Pulte metode ce pot fi aplicate pentru fiecare tip de HV WXU �vQ�SDUWH�

- PHWRGD� SULQ� VS ODUH� FX� DJLWDUH� PHFDQLF � vQ� PDúLQD� GH� VS ODW��DXWRPDW � VDX� VLPSO ��� OD� R� WHPSHUDWXU � DSURDSH� Ge fierbere (circa 95°C);

- PHWRGD� SULQ� VS ODUH� FX� DJLWDUH� PHFDQLF � vQ� PDúLQD� GH� VS Oat �DXWRPDW �VDX�VLPSO ) la temperatura de 60°C, respectiv 40°C;

- metoda prin� VS ODUH� FX� DJLWDUH� PDQXDO �� OD temperatura de 60°C, respectiv 40°C.

Prin aceste metode� VH� XUP UHúWH� GHWHUPLQDUHD� PRGLILF ULORU�GLPHQVLRQDOH�DOH�GLIHULWHORU�WLSXUL�GH� HV WXUL�GXS �R�VLQJXU �VS ODUH�

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(SUXYHWD�DVWIHO�SUHJ WLW �HVWH�VXSXV �VS O ULL�FX�R�VROX LH�DOFDOLQ ��OD�temperatura úL�WLSXO�GH�DJLWD LH�PHFDQLF �VDX�PDQXDO impuse de standard.

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Merceologie

'HWHUPLQDUHD� PRGLILF ULL� GLPHQVLRQDOH� OD� F OFDW �FRQWUDF LD�GLULMDW �� VH� HIHFWXHD] � vQ� VSHFLDO� SHQWUX� HV WXULOH� GH� OkQ � úL� WLS� OkQ . Din HV WXUD� GH� DQDOL]DW se preleYHD] � HSUXYHWH� GH� ���� [� ���� PP�� DVWIHO� FD�PDUJLQLOH�V �ILH�SDUDOHOH�FX�ILUHOH�GH�XU]HDO �úL�GH�E W WXU �DOH� HV WXULL��SH�FDUH� VH� WUDVHD] FkWH� WUHL� SHUHFKL� GH� UHSHUH�� SH� GLUHF LD� XU]HOLL� úL� SH� FHD� D�E W WXULL��Epruvetele VH�VXSXQ�FRQGL LRQ ULL� vQ�DWPRVIHU �VWDndard, timp de 24 sau 48 de ore�� úL� VH� P VRDU � GLVWDQ D� GLQWUH� UHSHUH�� I FkQGX-se media DUWLPHWLF �D�FHORU�WUHL�GLVWDQ H�PDUFDWH�SH�ILHFDUH�GLUHF LH�

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Md� �PRGLILFDUHD�GLPHQVLRQDO �OD�F OFDW��vQ��� li� �GLVWDQ D�PHGLH�vQWUH�UHSHUH��vQDLQWH�GH�F OFDUH��vQ�PP� lc� �GLVWDQ D�PHGLH�vQWUH�UHSHUH��GXS �F OFDUH��vQ�PP� RezXOWDWXO�VH�H[SULP �VHSDUDW�SH�GLUHF LD�XU]HOLL�úL�D�E W WXULL���ILLQG�

FX� VHPQXO� ��� GDF � GLPHQVLXQLOH� HSUXYHWHL� V-DX� P ULW� VDX� FX� -� �� GDF �dimensiunile s-DX�PLFúRUDW�

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

Schema nr. 9 Clasificarea fibrelor textile 1. Fibre naturale: - vegetale:

unicelulare: EXPEDF�úL�NDSRF� pluricelulare:�LQ��LXW ��FkQHS ��FKHQDI��WHLúRU��UDPLH��PDQLO �

- animale: FX� VWUXFWXU �FHOXODU �� OkQ ��S U�GH�FDSU ��GH�YLFXQD�� F PLO ��FDO��LHSXUH��ODP �HWF�� I U � VWUXFWXU � FHOXODU :� P WDVHD� GRPHVWLF �� P WDVHD� V OEDWLF �(Tusah, Douppioni),�ILEUD�GH�S LDQMHQ�

- minerale: azbest.

���)LEUH�GLQ�SROLPHUL�QDWXUDOL�RE LQXWH�SULQ�SURFHGHH�FKLPLFH - hidratcelulozice: viscoza, polinozice, cupro; - estercelulozice: acetat; - proteice: GH�FD]HLQ ��ODSWH���]HLQ ��SRUXPE���JOLFLQLQ ��DUDKLGH���

GLQ�VRLD��GLQ�V PkQ �GH�EXPEDF� ���)LEUH�GLQ�SROLPHUL�VLQWHWLFL�RE LQXWH�SULQ�SURFHGHH�FKLPLFH

- prin policondensare: poliamidice, poliesterice, policarbonice; - prin polimerizare: SROLHWLOHQLFH��SROLSURSLOHQLFH�úL�GHULYDW�

YLQLOLFH�úL�GLQ�Fopolimeri vinilici. - GH�VWLFO ��]JXU ��URFL�HUXSWLYH.

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Merceologie

Bibliografie

1) DECULESCU C.; FLEISCHER H.; HEDWIG R. – ÌQGUXP WRU�SHQWUX�ILQLVDUHD� HV WXULORU�GH�OkQ ��(GLWXUD�7HKQLF ��%XFXUHúWL, 1963

2) ,21$ù&8�,���5 '8&$18�,���$7$1$6,(�,���6&+,/(58�,��Metode úL� WHKQLFL� GH� DVLJXUDUH� úL� FRQWURO� DO� FDOLW LL� SURGXVHORU� LQGXVWULDOH��&DLHW�GH�ODERUDWRU�SHQWUX�SURGXVHOH�WH[WLOH�úL�GH�SLHO ULH, Lito A.S.E., %XFXUHúWL, 1989

3) IONESCU-MUSCEL I.; CUCU V.D. – Merceologia produselor de export-import, 0LQLVWHUXO�,QGXVWULHL�8úRDUH��&HQWUXO�GH�GRFXPHQWDUH�úL�publLFD LL�WHKQLFH��%XFXUHúWL������

4) IONESCU-MUSCEL I.; STOIAN E.; ATANASIE I. – Tratat de merceologie.� 3URGXVH� WH[WLOH� úL� vQF O PLQWH�� EGLWXUD� 7HKQLF ��%XFXUHúWL������

5) IONESCU-MUSCEL I.; CÂMPIAN I. (coordonatori) - Fibre

neaprinzibile în prevenirea incendiilor, (GLWXUD� 7HKQLF �� %XFXUHúWL, 1980

6) MOSEMAN A. H. - SILKWORM - Encyclopedia Encarta, Microsoft 2000

7) NGUYEN X.H. – Textiles, Encyclopeaedia Britannica, Microsoft 1994-2001

8) POPOVICI M. – (OHPHQWH�GH�WHFKQRORJLH�úL�VWXGLXO�P UIXULORU��Editura &XOWXUD�5RPkQHDVF ��%XFXUHúWL, 1930

9) PRODEA V. – 0DWHULDOH�QH HVXWH��(GLWXUD�7HKQLF ��%XFXUHúWL, 1989 10) 67$1&,8�,���3 5 ,$18�(���6&+,/(58�,��– Merceologie, calitatea

úL�VRUWLPHQWXO�P UIXULORU�QHDOLPHQWDUH��Editura Oscar Print, BucureúWL, 1997

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0 UIXULOH�WH[WLOH

11) X X X - Agave, Encyclopedia Encarta, Microsoft 2000

12) X X X – „Ceiba”, Encarta, Encyclopedia 2000

13) X X X - Hemp, Encyclopedia Encarta, Microsoft 2000

14) X X X - Manila Hemp, Encyclopedia Encarta, Microsoft 2000

15) X X X - Rayon, Encyclopedia Encarta, Microsoft 2000

16) X X X - standarde din grupele: M 02; M 13; M 14; M 15; M 20; M 21; M 22; M 23; M 24