rochii medievale

8/12/2019 Rochii Medievale

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Note: this page is intended primarily for the costumers of the Society for Creative Anachronism, and

written as such; however, hopefully, its usefulness is not limited to them: the same comments and

directions are applicable for theatrical costuming and other applications. The translations and directions

are by Masha Gedilaghine Holl, and may be printed for personal use. For commercial use, please contact

me at [Here].

The patterns and instructions on this page are based on Russkii istoricheskii

kostium dlia stseny, Isskustvo: Moscow, 1945, by N. Giliarovskaia [ Russian Historical Costume for the Stage ]. The patterns system Giliarovskaia gives work.

However, it is highly recommended to prepare a mock-up of the garment from

cheap fabric such as muslin before cutting the actual fabric intended for that

garment. The basic pattern is intended for people of average height, average girth,

and for men rather than women, therefore some measurements will need to be

adjusted, such as overall length, sleeve length, etc. I give more extensive directions

for the few garments I have actually constructed from these patterns. In general,

they will apply to all the garments in the book, but details will vary. These patterns

and directions are not complicated, since everything is based on straight lines, and

the curves are usually easy to draw. However, because adjustments are necessary

and construction details differ from commercial patterns, first-time costumers

should seek assistance from experienced costumers. The historical comments to the

patterns are by Giliarovskaia. For additional comments on the history of medieval

Russian clothing, see section IV.

I. General Directions.

In the introduction to the third section of her book (the actual patterns),

Giliarovskaia provides the following key:

"The drawings of the patterns are made according to a scale system. This is a

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system in which the pattern is drawn on the basis of chest measurements.

Divide one-half of the chest circumference by 48. The unit in the drawings

corresponds to 1/48 of half of the chest circumference.

For an average figure (48 cm) the unit may be 1 centimeter. For other sizes,

increase or decrease as necessary the measurement of the 1/48 of one-half of the

chest circumference.

Drawing of the patterns always begins at the vertical line, the top of which is

marked with the letter A.

Horizontal lines originate from the vertical line, to the right or to the left." (page

64).

In other words, measure the chest of the person for whom the garment is intended,

and divide by 96 (by 2 then by 48). Theoretically, the system works either in inches

or in centimeters, but using centimeters provides more precise measurements. To

create a pattern in the size you need, multiply the numbers provided in the master

pattern by the personal unit you just obtained (1/96 of the chest circumference).

Transfer the pattern to paper (I use banner paper or butcher paper, available in rolls

of various widths at craft stores, office supply stores, or even in some grocery

stores). Use the edge of the paper for the vertical line and mark the point A from

which all vertical measurement will be taken. Then measure and connect the dots

following the master pattern. If the garment extends both to the right and to the left

of the vertical line, offset it as necessary. Essentially, you will be working from

(x,y) coordinates, but from the top (right or left) instead of the bottom. Then create

a mock-up in cheap fabric, fit as necessary, and finally transfer to the fabric chosen

for the garment.

After you try it once, you will realize that it is really a simple and efficient system.

And more importantly, a universal one, as it is based on individual measurements

rather than arbitrary sizes.

Important note: the drawings are not to scale! Do not attempt to enlarge them and

print them out! Transfer them to paper following the instructions!

What to call all these garments?

The names Giliarovskaia gives are usually accurate and documented for the

Muscovite (post-Mongol) period. The Kievan period, however, is more of a

problem for costumers and linguists alike. The consensus at this times seems to be

that the mid-thigh to knee-length shir for men, and the undertunic for women, wereboth called srachitsa, sorochitsa , or sorochka , and that rubakhacorresponded



instead to "garment".

The overtunic, or outer garment, was called svita , not kaftan , which is a later

word, of the Muscovite period.

The cloak worn over the left shoulder, leaving the

sword arm free, was called the korzno , and it was

a distinguishing garment of the Rurikid princes.

The fur coat, sewn with the fur to the inside and

covered with fine cloth on the outside, was called,

as it would today, shuba .Shapka was a man's

hat, kokoshnik ,kika were women's headdresses

(the names may refer to different types of headdresses, but I am not sure which).

The veil was called povoi .

II. Patterns with directions.



1. Basic Shirt/Undertunic (Sorochka).

Cut 4 of each piece; the sleeve can be

cut on the fold: place top horizontal

line on fold and cut 2. The back of

the shirt may also be cut on the fold:

place vertical A on the fold and cut 1

Shirt Body; the same can be done

with the front of the shirt if it is to be

a pulled-over garment rather than a

buttoned shirt. For additional

comments, see below.

Check sleeve length and overall

length: this is best done as the pattern is transferred to paper. Do not forget to addseam allowances to your pattern! Alternately, add seam allowances directly on

the fabric (I use 1/2" or 3/4" allowances).Transfer

pattern to fabric and cut.

To assemble the garment: Sew

two front halves of the shirt

body together, repeat with

back if necessary. Sew

together the two halves of the

sleeves (1), if necessary (omit

these steps if you cut on the

fold).

Attach shirt front to shirt

back at shoulders -- 1.

Attach gusset to gore -- 2.



Attach gore+gusset assembly to sleeve -- 3.

Attach completed section II (see pattern) to shirt body -- 4.

Sew side seam along sleeve, gusset and gore -- 5.

This pattern can be easily modified from a pulled-over to a buttoned shirt: Cut 2

front Shirt Body pieces. Sew together if desired, leaving an opening in front. The

neckline of the shirt back can be modified.

For an offset shirt opening, cut front piece of Shirt Body on fold. Cut an opening

off-center. Modify back neckline as above. Assemble shirt as instructed.

A collar can be added to the modified neckline.

The pattern produces a shirt that is approximately knee-length, i.e. a men's shirt. To

make a women's tunic, lengthen the Shirt Body and the Gusset by extending the

vertical lines after transferring the shirt pattern to paper : the resulting tunic will bewider at the bottom than the shirt. Add fullness to the tunic by widening the gores

at the bottom.

2. "Kievan" Tunic.

Because of lacunae in Giliarovskaia's drawings, this pattern requires a mock-up

before cutting the good fabric.

This garment may be made into an over-tunic or into a coat, depending on the

fabric used. As a coat, it must have a front opening. As an overtunic, it may be

either a pulled-over or a button-front garment. Use shank buttons, preferably cloth-

covered, and loops, not buttonholes. Loops can be easily made from rattail cording.

Calculate Unit as directedabove.

Transfer pattern to paper, then to fabric. Do not forget seam allowances: it is

recommended to use generous allowances in the mock-up (about 1"). If the pattern

is placed on the fold, mark carefully the top of the shoulder (corner A) on the

sleeve. To adjust the length of the sleeve, shorten as needed, but keep the size of

the top (wider) edge. The bottom edge (narrower edge on the pattern) may be

modified as desired to obtain a different shape of the sleeve, although it is

recommended to follow the pattern precisely the first time.

Cut 2 each of Back and Front, and 4 of Sleeve. Alternately, place vertical A on fold

and cut 1 Back, 1 Front, and 2 Sleeves.

Sew together 2 Back halves if necessary. Sew together 2 front parts if this is to be a

pulled-over garment. Sew together halves of sleeves.

Sew Back to Front at shoulders. Attach sleeve to body. This is the difficult part:

Giliarovskaia's pattern does not indicate the size of the inset (see 29* on the

pattern). Match shoulder seam with top (or seam) of Sleeve.

Baste sleeve in place. The top (wider) edge of the sleeve must fit precisely in the

inset, turning corners. The bottom seam on the sleeve will meet with the body seam

under the arm. Adjust the seam allowances on the body of the garment to fit the

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sleeve, not the sleeve itself.

Sew side seam along body and under sleeve.

Fit and adjust body length. Note that Russian garments never trail on the ground,

and usually reach the ankle, or just below. An overtunic often reveals embroidery

along the hem of the undertunic: adjust length as desired.



3. Novgorod Shuba (coat).

The pattern is based on a number of representations of saints (and ordinary people

in icons) that diverge from the Byzantine standard. Instead of chitons, wraps and

capes, the people are shown in coats cut with a short front and a longer back, and

long sleeves that reach down almost to the hem.

Judging from the iconographic representations, the coat was

usually worn as a cloak, i.e. wrapped around the shoulders and

fastened around the neck. However, Giliarovskaia’s comment

is that it “could be worn as a cloak,” which seems to imply

that it could also worn as a coat. According to later

illustrations, the sleeves could be worn pushed up and

gathered above the wrist, or sewn with slits in the upper part

of the sleeve that served as opening for the arms.

Note that there the hemline is straight: this way, it will be

longer in the back than the front (see illustration).

As with other patterns, it is best to make a mock-up garment

out of cheap fabric before transferring the measurements to good fabric. It may be

necessary to adjust the overall length of the garment and of the sleeves. You may

choose to redraw the pattern to the final length while keeping the width of the front

suggested by Giliarovskaia, or

simply to crop the excess fabric

from the bottom (the width of the

garment at the hem will be

reduced).

The seam of the sleeve should meet

with the underarm seam of the

body. Adjust the sleeve and thearmhole to fit.

The sleeve shows two lines near the

shoulder seam; they represent trim,

not cutting or sewing lines.

For the rest, follow the directions

for the Kievan Tunic (sewing order,

matching seams, etc.).

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Links.

Masha Holl's Page: my main page. Published stories, announcements, contests.

See what I'm up to.

Otter Creations Web Services: The creator of my websites. Website and language

services. Creation, editing, workshops, and more.

Essays on Russian History. A page I maintain. It contains interesting links to

Russian History sites.

Russian Folk Tales. Another of my pages. Annotated translations of Russian folk

tales and Russian folklore links.

Slavic Interest Group: the SIG is an informal group composed of members of the

Society for Creative Anachronism interested in the study of Russian, other Slavic,

and East- and Central-European cultures.

Russian Notes: A daily compendium of Russian news. Life and politics in Russia

and the former Soviet Union.

Return to the top of the page.

© Maria Gedilaghine Holl, 1998. The patterns on this page are my drawings,

based on those in Giliarovskaia's book. All other graphics are mine. Permission is

granted to copy them for personal use. For commercial use, please contact me:



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[Here] . If you use any of the graphics on this page, please indicate the author:

Maria Gedilaghine Holl, and the URL of this page.

Basic Clothing Patterns for Medieval WomenALL PATTERNS - BASIC EAS T-T!NIC - EAS "#ERT!NIC WIT$ WI%E SLEE#ES - #ER EAS "#ERT!NIC WIT$ #ER

WI%E SLEE#E -

BASIC LACE% or !NLACE% T-T!NIC - &ITTE% ME%IE#AL 'IRTLE - S!RC"TES - $""%S - $"SE Basic Laced or !nlaced T-T(nic

A basic, laced or unlaced T-tunic early medieval gown. This is another one of the easiestgowns to make and it can be made from expensive fabrics for the upper classes or for feastsand banquets. It hangs like a sack in a very unattractive manner until the belt is on, when itdrapes much nicer. It can be made in one solid colour or in two colours as shown for a moreupper-class look.

It can be made with gores the triangle pieces! which make the bottom part of the gownmore voluminous and use up the fabric scraps, or without. If you"re not a re-enactor and are #ust using this pattern for stallholder clothing or for banquets, you can cut the sleeves all inone hit. This gives you a total of nine seams to make the entire dress. That"s it. $ine seams.%ou can lace the front, or the back if you want a fitted gown or leave it a little roomier andpull it on over the head with no lacing at all.

$o) it goes together - &rint the pattern below on A' paper.- The pattern will take up half the page.- (ut the other half the page off and throw it away.- $ow you have your long, skinny piece of fabric.

- )old it in half lengthwise on the dotted line.- The heavy black lines are where you cut.- *hen you have finished cutting, unfold your paper.- Assemble the front and back big pieces so they look like this- the longstraight pieces are the front and back seams.- )old the sleeves pieces along the dotted line and tape to theshoulders at the top.

The front- &lace your small gores at the sides of the front of the dress.- +se some sticky tape to tape them in place to remind you where to sew them.- ecide if you want to lace the front. If not, sticky tape the seam closed to remind you to sew it.- If you are lacing at the front, sticky tape the lower part of the dress from thehips down.

The *ac+- ecide if you are lacing at the back. If you are, leave the back seam openat the top.- The back wide gore goes from the bottom of the hem and up the middleseam.- ticky tape your gore on to remind you where it goes.- There will be more fabric than you have skirt when it comes time to pin thegores on, so either ad#ust your hem or make the tops of your triangle gores alittle less pointy. The gores go to the hips for this one to give a more slenderfit through the body which does up with lacing.

,eneral notes- *hen it"s all cut out of fabric, you will need to ad#ust this to your own body sie. &ut it on inside out and pinthe body area to fit you a little. Allow for your bust to get in and out. %our sleeves taper outwards and youcan go all the way to the selvedge of the fabric.- %our lacing holes should be /cm or /.0cm apart. If you make them any wider apart than this, your gown



will gape and pull and look terrible. It"s worth the extra lacing holes to make your dress sit better.

The Pattern C(tting ,(ide1ight click on your mouse and A23 A to your computer or click on the picture and drag to your desktop.&rint on A' paper.




WI%E SLEE#E -BASIC LACE% or !NLACE% T-T!NIC - &ITTE% ME%IE#AL 'IRTLE - S!RC"TES - $""%S - $"SE

Eas "ver T(nic )ith Wide Sleeves

A 4asic T-tunic 5vergown for early medieval periods. This is possibly one of the easiestgowns to make and it can be made from expensive fabrics for the upper classes or forfeasts and banquets. It hangs like a sack in a very unattractive manner until the belt ison, when it drapes much nicer. This one is made with a centre seam instead of a fold fora particoloured gown and no gores to show what results can be achieved with a verybasic pattern.

It can be made with gores the triangle pieces! which make the bottom part of the gownmore voluminous and use up the fabric scraps, or without. If you"re not a re-enactor andare #ust using this pattern for stallholder clothing or for banquets, you can cut the sleevesall in one hit, meaning if you don"t have gores, you have two side seams to make theentire dress. That"s it. Two seams. It is an overgown, so you need a gown with fitted

sleeves underneath as a 6ady never showed her bare arms. It can be slightly shorterthan the undergown to show off the colour of the gown underneath.

The large pattern below is a 7+I3 5$6%, to show how your pieces will go together. The idea is that youcan print one out on an A' piece of paper and cut it out of paper to make a little mini-gown. This will helpyou see how it goes together and to avoid cutting fabric the wrong way.

$o) it goes together - &rint the pattern below on A' paper.- The pattern will take up half the page.- (ut the other half the page off and throw it away.- $ow you have your long, skinny piece of fabric.- )old it in half lengthwise on the dotted line.

- )old it again on the dotted line where the head hole goes.- The heavy black lines are where you cut.- *hen you have finished cutting, unfold your paper.- )old it across the shoulders so it looks like a dress.- That"s it for the basic dress. %ou would sew from the sleeve, aroundthe underarm, down the sides of the body and down the skirt to thehem.- If you want to use the extra gores to make the skirt fuller, turn them around and they go like this at right!.- +se some sticky tape to tape them in place to remind you where to sew them.- There will be more fabric than you have skirt when it comes time to pin them on, so either ad#ust your hemor make the tops of your triangle gores a little less pointy. The gores go to the waist for this one, so the gowncan hang in folds from the belt.- *hen it"s all cut out of fabric, you will need to ad#ust this to your own body sie. &ut it on inside out and pin

the body area to fit you a little. Allow for your bust to get in and out. %our sleeves taper outwards and youcan go all the way to the selvedge of the fabric.





WI%E SLEE#E -BASIC LACE% or !NLACE% T-T!NIC - &ITTE% ME%IE#AL 'IRTLE - S!RC"TES - $""%S - $"SE

Basic T-t(nic. !ndert(nic or "vert(nic

The 4asic T-tunic for early $orman medieval gown or for 2iking T-tunic. This is possiblyone of the easiest gowns to make, and it looks nice made in a nice colour with embroideredbands at the neck and sleeves and worn with a coloured belt and hood. It hangs like a sackin a very unattractive manner until the belt is on, when it drapes much nicer. If you pick abright blue or green it is very lovely8

It can be made with gores the triangle pieces! which make the bottom part of the gownmore voluminous and use up the fabric scraps, or without. If you"re not a re-enactor and are #ust using this pattern for stallholder clothing, you can cut the sleeves all in one hit,meaning if you don"t have gores, you have two side seams to make the entire dress. That"sit. Two seams. It also makes a nice linen shift or undergown.

The large pattern below is a 7+I3 5$6%, to show how your pieces will go together. Theidea is that you can print one out on an A' piece of paper and cut it out of paper to make alittle mini-gown. This will help you see how it goes together and to avoid cutting fabric the wrong way.

$o) it goes together - &rint the pattern below on A' paper.- The pattern will take up half the page.- (ut the other half the page off and throw it away.- $ow you have your long, skinny piece of fabric.- )old it in half lengthwise on the dotted line.- )old it again on the dotted line where the head hole goes.- The heavy black lines are where you cut.- *hen you have finished cutting, unfold your paper.

- )old it across the shoulders so it looks like a dress.- That"s it for the basic dress. %ou would sew from the sleeve,around the underarm, down the sides of the body and downthe skirt to the hem.- If you want to use the extra gores to make the skirt fuller, turn them around and they go like this at right!.- +se some sticky tape to tape them in place to remind you where to sew them.- There will be more fabric than you have skirt when it comes time to pin them on, so either ad#ust your hemor make the tops of your triangle gores a little less pointy. The gores go to the waist for this one, so the gowncan hang in folds from the belt.- *hen it"s all cut out of fabric, you will need to ad#ust this to your own body sie. &ut it on inside out and pinthe body area to fit you a little. Allow for your bust to get in and out. %ou can leave your sleeve holesstraight, but this pattern works well with the sleeve tapered from the elbow to the wrist which leaves plenty ofroom for movement around the shoulders. &erfect for busy activity.





WI%E SLEE#E -

BASIC LACE% or !NLACE% T-T!NIC - &ITTE% ME%IE#AL 'IRTLE - S!RC"TES - $""%S - $"SE #er Eas "ver T(nic )ith #er Wide Sleeves

A 4asic 5vergown with very wide sleeves. This is another one of the easiest gowns tomake and it can be made from expensive fabrics for the upper classes or for feastsand banquets. It hangs like a sack in a very unattractive manner until the belt is on,when it drapes much nicer.

If you"re not a re-enactor and are #ust using this pattern for stallholder clothing or forbanquets, you can cut the sleeves all in one hit, meaning you have two side seams tomake the entire dress. That"s it. Two seams.

It is an overgown, so you need a gown with fitted sleeves underneath as a 6ady nevershowed her bare arms. %ou may line your sleeves in a contrasting colour for a showyeffect. It is an overgown, so you need a gown with fitted sleeves underneath as a 6ady

never showed her bare arms.

$o) it goes together - &rint the pattern below on A' paper.- The pattern will take up half the page.- (ut the other half the page off and throw it away.- $ow you have your long, skinny piece of fabric.- )old it in half lengthwise on the dotted line.- )old it again on the dotted line where the head hole goes.- The heavy black lines are where you cut.- *hen you have finished cutting, unfold your paper.- )old it across the shoulders so it looks like a dress.- That"s it for the basic dress. %ou would sew from the sleeve, around the

underarm, down the sides of the body and down the skirt to the hem.- *hen it"s all cut out of fabric, you will need to ad#ust this to your own body sie.&ut it on inside out and pin the body area to fit you a little. Allow for your bust to get in and out. %our sleevestaper outwards and you can go all the way to the selvedge of the fabric.- %ou can line the sleeves from a contrasting colour if you like. It"s best to cut the fabric by using the sleevesyou"ve #ust cut as a pattern.


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